Haven’t posted in a while - but a pair of back to back banger sessions worthy of a report.
Day 1 was socked in with surf not visible, but other visible spots indicating that it would be good, so I went out semi blind (it cleared momentarily and confirmed my suspicions). Was crazy busy - more heads than I’ve seen before. But, mostly buoys, clueless folks, so kinda had my run of the place. I get into the lineup and see the handful of regulars and my first comment is, “man, who the fuck are all these guys?!?” drawing a chuckle from the familiar faces. Off to the races…
Highlights include the guy living in our converted garage/ADU showing up (he’s a kiter mostly) with a coworker, and said coworker burns me off the peak, badly. I damn near was gonna raise the dudes rent just for association - but I shrugged it off and got the acknowledgment from the few other regulars of “wtf is going on out here.”
Moved wide and the waves turned on. Riding a tried and true board that was perfect for the conditions, starting gorging on wave after wave - felt great being in rhythm and surfing fast. 90 minutes in, some dude calls out my name and says howzit - I couldn’t conjure the name so I said hello back and “how’s the lady?” To which he replied, “oh, we split.” LOL.
Chat for a minute about life (still can’t remember his name, but I eliminate a few possibilities from the list) when he mentions, oh, aren’t you having another kid? Yes I am, due January- he says “oh yeah, you have your son with (crazy ex) and now number two right?” And i finally place him as associate of my ex’s lady friends - but he was being super cool with me, giving me the impression that yes, indeed, people know she’s nuts. I mention the tide drop is closing it out but opening up some lefts and the inside shelf is throwing more, and then note I’ll be snagging one shortly to head out (and note that those cursed words will result in a 30 minute lull) when one rolls my way so I dig hard to chip in and the wave ledges out and lines up - next thing I know, super clean round tube before a slash on the last section and I belly in to call it. Felt sick to come in on a good wave for once.
Second day I got delayed by child activities and didn’t make it out til around lunch but it was still glassy and when I peak and see no heads in the water I just suit and go, not too worried about the fading swell and less than ideal tide. Session turns out super fun, solo for 30, with another guy for 30, and about 5 for the last 15-20 - caught a larger set wave, felt like I crushed the first turn and then skirted around to the inside for a few cutbacks - bellied in and called it.
Wind came up out of the south and wrecked it and I was laughing all the way home. Nice to get in a groove!
Also, took out my new 7’0 on a 10@17 morning earlier that week and clicked with the board instantly - can’t wait for some more big days to really put it through its paces.
Stocked!!!