[He’s a dentist so he likes to talk really close. Well cause he’s a dentist. [/QUOTE]
that is classic. so funny.
that is classic. so funny.
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
surfed the beach out front this afternoon. kinda weird, just barely peaking in front of the sand bar then pretty walled, some residual lump in the water made waves hard to catch. had to notice that other people were also missing a bunch to not get pissed at myself. always nice to paddle around though
@oeste858 100% constructive as is your thumbs up of @teeroi 's technique advice. I am super stocked today, coz I had a 2hr surfing lesson this morning and going to get more. I am excited at the prospect of being able to improve my surfing after previously written off the idea of that happening.
6am start with 1hr of surf-skate, followed by some dry land instruction on paddling and pop up technique followed by surfing applying the surf skate arm movements and shoulder/body rotation, plus knee bend. Not precisely the drag leading hand cue that Teeroi suggested, but similar idea - get that leading shoulder rotated round more, trailing arm swings round too.
Decision to get lessons triggered by my Soloshot video and seeing my neighbour who is more in the early stages of intermediate improve after just one lesson from a local surf coach. We did a lesson together this morning, so second lesson for him. In some ways my neighbour is in a better position because he has the chance to learn turns with proper technique for the first time, whereas I have to throw away decades of ingrained wiggling and start from basics again. On the other hand I do have the board feel from all that surfing and some wave judgement so that helps with being able to re-learn how to turn.
Too much covered to report here, one interesting point is the pop up. Instructor favours the grass-hopper style back leg foot on tailpad first followed by bringing the front leg forward rather than the jump both feet at the same time approach. I've been doing this on my backhand anyway. So I am now converting my forehand takeoff to that technique. I can see advantages in it, I have on occasions been forced to use that to keep the board pressed down in super windy conditions anyway.
Lesson ran overtime so it was more like 1hr 20min in the water and I went for an arvo surf to practice what I had learned. Exhausted now, rest day tomorrow. Board breaking conditions predicted anyway and I have done enough of that this year.
Here on Oahu we have sooooo many surf schools, surf coaches and surf guides that at the first mention of coaching is cringe. But you aren’t on Oahu. So I think it’s great you want to improve and are willing to invest time, money and energy into making that happen.
I jokingly posted in reply to @Havoc that if you surf at any of the spots I surf that have a bunch of uncles you wouldn’t need to hire a coach cause the uncles would tell you everything you’re doing wrong. It’ll be on point and harsh.
I’ve been working on blowing fins over on my snaps for years. And I’ve gotten advise from a lot of the rippers. Widen my stance, start the snap a tad later, square up on your bottom turn more. All that has helped. Working on timing and aiming at the right spot on the lip has been crucial. If the boar goes into lip slide to keep my weight centered over the stringer. Keeping centered and not rolling down the windows with my arms have been tricky to get wired. Best blow tail I got wasn’t even on purpose. Uncle Byron F was paddling for a wave and I paddled to block Gregg from backing him up if he missed it. Byron gave up and told me to go. I was in Gregg’s way so he couldn’t go. So G grabbed my foot and pushed me in hard. One of the kids was just as surprised I caught the wave and pulled back and made a perfect coping. I hit it with all that extra speed I got half the boar over. When the lineup saw me ride out I heard a collective woah. When I paddled back out Jimmy tells me you should pay G to push you into more waves. Haha.
The Surfline rewind cam and all the drone and land guys filming has helped too. Watching the falls and barrel dodges are ego crushing but still informative.
The standard for many years of 11" and 3 3/8" fin placements lose speed heading towards the lip
This makes it necessary to snap under the lip
Drivier set ups take you thru the lip
This makes it necessary to snap under the lip
Drivier set ups take you thru the lip
You mean like this?
FCS2 H4’s. Well plus custom built boars from two of Hawaii’s finest. Kerry and Wade Tokoro.
These fins surface area sit 1/4" further back at the same mark compared to most other fins - No fillet at the base that most have moving the actual functioning area of the fin forward 1/4"
No fillet = more rearward = more drive in many cases
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ive never been able to understand what the fillet was added to compensate for originally.
i can appreciate the copy cat factor and intent lost over the years.
I was just talking to Dean about you. Miss seeing ya around, on these clean, glassy, crisp, uncrowded, perfect A frame peeler, mornings lately!
jk. But you are missed by the morning crew. Stoked to hear you got a few in the afternoon.
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a few good ones at the end of the swell, couple tubes
so weird lookin at cams now at places that were always empty on week days, back when surfers used to have jobs. theyre all packed now at noon
so weird lookin at cams now at places that were always empty on week days, back when surfers used to have jobs. theyre all packed now at noon
Yes the H4’s have tons of drive. But the trailing edge sits on the shapers mark or a hair behind but not a 1/4”. Could be that Wade and Kerry know what fins I’ve been using and adjusted their mark. I’ve seen boars with the same dimensions same model as mine and there’s little tweaks they’ll do. Custom board building for their customers.
Didn’t surf today. Had to pick up paint. But drove by Sandys and it’s firing. Good size trade swell.
Both templates hit the shapers mark , one has a fillet that moves the actual functioning surface forward around 1/4"
H4 fronts start at that mark and move rearward - not forward then back
Rear H4 area moves rearward quickly - unexplainable template shape too ;-)
H4 fronts start at that mark and move rearward - not forward then back
Rear H4 area moves rearward quickly - unexplainable template shape too ;-)
buddy in hb said beach was packed with hs surf teams and they had a contest going on. jerseys, heat timers on the beach, announcers, parents watching, the whole nine yards. all this one a school day. i was in south oc same thing. i asked the lifeguard and he said they don't have a permit so u can surf in their contest if u want lol. it's bad enough that instead of the usual 20-30 ppl out at dawn, we now have 60-70 bc of their surf team. we also now have contests on a school day. nutz. wish localism would return. dark days ahead.
There is a surf contest tomorrow at oside pier and a bunch of little sh!t heads were there burning the old duus and not looking where they're paddling and trying to take every wave.
Shoulda went to my usual spot instead. But had fun surfing with some of the locals guys there.
Shoulda went to my usual spot instead. But had fun surfing with some of the locals guys there.
my main gripe is that these are going on during school hours on a weekday. also, they are getting 2 periods free to surf so they don't need to be in school until 10am. my hard earned taxpayer dollars going to a bunch of a-hole surf-coach/educators allowing unlimited surf time.There is a surf contest tomorrow at oside pier and a bunch of little sh!t heads were there burning the old duus and not looking where they're paddling and trying to take every wave.
Shoulda went to my usual spot instead. But had fun surfing with some of the locals guys there.
lil nugs on teh fuse. kinda in between.. to small for the sets, just right on the tweeners. Some nice speed lines, micro covers, and a couple of cracks. out til next week
this happened to me yesterday. was like wtf is going on. some peeps surfing in the middle of a contest? Mom watching in disbelief as she records on the handycam?
any Ahole on here who taught their kid to surf owes me their set waves.