yeah i would guess 53-54 or so? there is a warm patch offshore and for a few days it felt really warm in the bay but all it takes is a little north winds and the temps start to drop again.
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Water probably around 57 here, maybe a touch warmer. Beautiful day out with no wind and a chunky 9' @ 11 swell. No takers at first. Definitely signs of fall. Especially the deer that jumped out of the brush between me and the car in front of me on the way there. Hit the brakes but still hit it glancingly. It limped off the other side of the road towards the rest of the brush and I think (hope) it was OK. Smashed my headlight assembly and fender a bit though. Sucks. What are you going to do, though? Bummed that happened.
Main break was meaty, closed out, and very consistent. Checked a few other spots around and decided to give another sandbar a look. Solid overhead but a semblance of a channel if you timed it right. Saw one guy try, current took him south, he got a couple inside ones but otherwise denied. Aha. I paddled out 50 feet north to offset current. Timed it well and muscled it out there, taking only a couple smaller sets on the head. Surfed my new 6'6" Senate, partially undergunned but what the hell. Hard to get into waves as had to time it perfect right before it jacked but not took far before, otherwise it would roll you. That board handled speed well, so much fun. Hauled ass off the drops and held bottom turns with a fair amount of water moving. Was nice to shake off a little rust and be back to fall/winter again.
Main break was meaty, closed out, and very consistent. Checked a few other spots around and decided to give another sandbar a look. Solid overhead but a semblance of a channel if you timed it right. Saw one guy try, current took him south, he got a couple inside ones but otherwise denied. Aha. I paddled out 50 feet north to offset current. Timed it well and muscled it out there, taking only a couple smaller sets on the head. Surfed my new 6'6" Senate, partially undergunned but what the hell. Hard to get into waves as had to time it perfect right before it jacked but not took far before, otherwise it would roll you. That board handled speed well, so much fun. Hauled ass off the drops and held bottom turns with a fair amount of water moving. Was nice to shake off a little rust and be back to fall/winter again.
Few gems mixed with the semi section-y lines 3-4 semi inconsistent. A bit crowded, Air show had the beach situation F'ed
managed a couple fun one back on the 6-2 4 channel twinzer. Should be getting a call from the glasser soon, sent one to the cutter
managed a couple fun one back on the 6-2 4 channel twinzer. Should be getting a call from the glasser soon, sent one to the cutter
Marathon session at the beach out front yesterday afternoon/evening, shorter one midday today. both times on my 'pulled off the scrap heap' 6'2" roundtail. really impressed with this board. It has a little less "quick burst of speed from a little pump" than other boards (I think it's because those boards have a pretty deep single concave?), but it wants to be on rail, and really wants you to dig into your turns, and feels really drivey once you do. I guess this is my go-to shortboard now.
I really like paddling for its own sake/as exercise. happy to be able to do a lot of it again.
I really like paddling for its own sake/as exercise. happy to be able to do a lot of it again.
tis the season. those fvckars are in all the wrong places right now
short story long. couple 3 falls ago my truck was in the body shop on the at faults insurance dimes.
usaa set up 4x4 pick up like n kine for me to drive while mine was out. anyway got to enterprise and the girl is like heres the keys... cept i dont see any truck all detailed out front and ready to roll. shes no. no truck we have you in this sporty little 2-door thats got like 4" of clearance. nice huh. think all the bitches youll pull rolling it.
im all sorry you dont understand. i gots to have a truck with 4wd for the "job" which is code for where i am planning on driving this is definitely not contract kosher. and besides says in my policy like and kine truck.so want to talk to the agent?
she gets all huffled and taps her computer for a while. prolly looking at eyelash porn or some sh!t cause after enough time passes shes sorry no trucks in our system within 150 miles but i can get you in a mid size caddy.
sigh. heres the deal. either i get a jacked up truck or im out and we take our business down the road.
kkkkk lets see oh looky we got a silverado 4by just over on xyz.
perfect. drive me over. get the truck easypesy and im off.
fast forward 6 hrs an im driving home dark rainy ground foggy fucked and sure enough come around the bend doing like 45 and theres mommy deer and baby one flashing through the headlights. which can only mean laggert baby two is right
there. and you guessed it. only time to tappy the brakes for a clean kill center cut an swept clean under the truck.
me is thank you ground clearance. thank you eyelash porn chick and thank you like n kine policy thing. was so stocked not to be driving the rest of the way home with bambi haf through the windshield and bleeding all over the coupes passenger seat
Crazy sh!t, doc.
BTW, what IS the protocol for when you hit a deer? Do you call it in to the police or animal control? I felt really bad. Saw it hobbling up into the woods (was on downhill straightaway before Bohemian Hwy) and wasn't sure what else I could do. Part of me was thinking I should report it (but to who?) and another was thinking people in Seaside would chop its head off for dashboard love/localism purposes. Gotta be a happy medium in there....
BTW, what IS the protocol for when you hit a deer? Do you call it in to the police or animal control? I felt really bad. Saw it hobbling up into the woods (was on downhill straightaway before Bohemian Hwy) and wasn't sure what else I could do. Part of me was thinking I should report it (but to who?) and another was thinking people in Seaside would chop its head off for dashboard love/localism purposes. Gotta be a happy medium in there....
^ I'm curious what 'the done thing' is when you hit a deer too. I used to surf a wave in a state park and when I'd drive in and out of there there were so many deer jumping out I was convinced I was going to hit one sooner or later. I had a hunter friend in that town so my plan then was to throw it in the back and ask him to teach me how to make some deer steaks.
Surfin in the fog. Couldn't see past the shorebreak from the beach and once out couldn't see the shore. Some heavy, crossed up inside bar. 7 feet at 12 seconds. Drifted south and found myself inside of some larger ones rolling through from an outside bar. Grabbed a solid roll in, came off the bottom into a wrap tight in the pocket and it started bowling up and running, tucked up as tight as my 6'3 frame would let me and got a quick and dirty vision. Spent the net 45 minutes on the south bound current express, always just in between peaks. Ended up alone after two dudes closest to me got cleaned up by a large set. Finally snagged another that walled up. Few pumps until it detonated on the inside bar. Bellied to shore at Rivera. So south current took me 1 mile in about an hour.
injured wildlife=dead wildlife. the exception being marine mammals because they have their own rescue squad...
animal control/law enforcement is not in the business of tracking down injured critters. thats nextdoor sh!t not any state or local agency.
between the coyotes lions rats and buzzards their fate is sealed. just fix your subie and move on. youve now unofficially entered the norcal cycle of life
and yeah the redneck kids used to like wild boar heads for hood ornaments on their diesels. drive up and down the road in front of the store. rolling coal and comparing whos had the longest tusks.
dont see it so much anymore. things have settled down around here since the 90's
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Surfed a quick before work sesh on the Moonfish yesterday and a longer more relaxed sesh this morning. Yesterday was slow but I got a couple of nuggets. Today more consistent but more crowded. Got a bunch of fun ones. This boar is hard to get off of. Easy paddling, up to speed right off and gets on rail and holds.
Had some per emergency issues the last couple days that were really stressful. Got a window to rinse off this afternoon. Went to my preferred junky summer reef hoping there was enough south swell. There wasn’t but the wind swell was making Some passable peaks. It was pretty sub par but I trunked it and it felt great, then I got two guys hyping me up after a right and a left. Not too bad! Manta ftw.
fun peaks on the mitsven bonzer. board matched up perfectly cause waves were shifty and hard to get in to. Lot's of fun two turn wedges, one good barrel, and a super long one I got pinched on. stock is me
Dreamy fall day. Took the whole brood to the beach at 1 p.m. and somehow convinced my wife to let me bring a board. Tide dropping when I paddled out around 2:30. Some really nice overhead peaks coming through here and there, but it was a bit of a tease. Waves kept stacking up and then backing off. Overall, pretty wonky. Took me 45 minutes to grab three. One insider after frustration set in gave me a pump and a roundhouse. Scratched into the shoulder of a bowling left. Thought I would go over the handle bars but somehow held on just ahead of a barrel. Grabbed another insider to get in. Found my son naked digging for sandcrabs while my infant daughter slept strapped onto momma. Pretty sweet Sunday.
windy and soft at the local this morning. kind of crowded for how marginal it was. i rode the gigglebox and should have been on something fishier. got a few turns but overall it was fairly underwhelming.
evening was much better. winds were clean and there were only a few of us out. rode the PJHP which felt okay. i wish it was narrower, it feels redundant with the regular PJ in the quiver.
evening was much better. winds were clean and there were only a few of us out. rode the PJHP which felt okay. i wish it was narrower, it feels redundant with the regular PJ in the quiver.
Dawned the regular. Dropping swell but the weekend crowd was all familiar faces. Traded waves, cheers and insults. Been riding the Moonfish even on the last few days that a pointed nose boar would’ve been better performing. Today got some nuggets but also had a few weird waves. Smaller and low tide some of the transitions in the wave were so tight and steep the round nose and relaxed rocker didn’t fit in well. Got a runner that I caught up to an open corner and did a full rail wrap. It got tight and steep and there was a bump on the face I pearled mid face going in the opposite direction from where started the turn. Can’t remember the last time I did that usually poke aiming toward the beach. Haha.
I think I’m taking the next couple days off. But swell around all shores toward the end of next week.
I think I’m taking the next couple days off. But swell around all shores toward the end of next week.
Just got back from Nusa Lembongan. Surfed for 4 days with just one board, a Pyzel Shadow with a round pin tail. Had a blast. The Shadow works great for me, joining other awesome all rounders / quiver killers like the HS Untitled and JS Monsta Box.
4/5 times would rather have a Shadow than a Ghost.
Caught 1 bomb that made the entire trip worth it. So much fun to drop into something huge.
4/5 times would rather have a Shadow than a Ghost.
Caught 1 bomb that made the entire trip worth it. So much fun to drop into something huge.
There's been on thing missing in my surfing for the past year, going left, baskside. Every since surgery, the knee always seem to hurt on the meager lefts I occassionally would catch. So I had to find out for sure. Drove down to the south end of town where there's a nice outside reef that breaks left. I wasn't too disappointed at the head high waves and ultra glass at noon. Too inconsistant, but the knee did not hurt, and doesn't hurt now either. I have only surfed this spot once in past 2.5 years, paddled out into a pack of kids and a couple of newtimers. I was ready for hard looks, but none to be found. It was easy to find my favorite boil again.
Caught a few good ones that offered up chances for hard rebounds into the foam, always fun. The best one gave me a nice bottom to use for a solid snap off the top. faded deep into the trough, but didn't have the speed to yank it back up into the lip. So I just grabbed rail instead and got some "coverage" in the pocket. Came out, stood up, and wailed into roundhouse. Good stuff. At the end, just too lully at dead tide, arggh, bored, I paddled in. Yes, paddling to the shore in shame. At least I caught a mini one before I hit the beach. The mini one gave me enough speed to do a nice tail slide in the knee-high end section. Fark, it was hot in the parking lot.
View from my back bumper. Not too shabby...
Caught a few good ones that offered up chances for hard rebounds into the foam, always fun. The best one gave me a nice bottom to use for a solid snap off the top. faded deep into the trough, but didn't have the speed to yank it back up into the lip. So I just grabbed rail instead and got some "coverage" in the pocket. Came out, stood up, and wailed into roundhouse. Good stuff. At the end, just too lully at dead tide, arggh, bored, I paddled in. Yes, paddling to the shore in shame. At least I caught a mini one before I hit the beach. The mini one gave me enough speed to do a nice tail slide in the knee-high end section. Fark, it was hot in the parking lot.
View from my back bumper. Not too shabby...
Friday - Paddle out with the morning dimness to a short period. Crappy waves, mostly garbled closeouts. Exercise and ocean-muscle-memory-coming-back for the win. If counting rides, then lose.
Saturday - Met up with Friend #1, stared into fogbank, can't see waves, can't really see beyond the point where fishermen are casting lines. Long time to get out, leash works well, can't see shore once outside, outgoing tide should me I am drifting south, a few others around me, but unpredictable crumbly waves are such that no one is getting much. Best wave was floating -over-the-fall take off to successful landing, and crumbling waves allows to to carve around to mushy shoulder. When I get out, have drift 6 blocks, despite me paddling north most of the time. friend #1 later says he was denied by short period ceaselessness.
Sunday - Repeat of Saturday. Fatigue from yesterday nearly results in similar fate as Friend #1 from day before, but luckily drifted into rip and was able to hold breath through rip peak smashes. Less fog helps make it easier to find waves. Am paying price for not riding bike to work every day. Later find out I should have gone in the afternoon, but had to go early as Sweetie-pie's friend in moving to Portland, so went on one last cross-town urban hike. Tripped on brick steps and gouged up the shin pretty well.
Saturday - Met up with Friend #1, stared into fogbank, can't see waves, can't really see beyond the point where fishermen are casting lines. Long time to get out, leash works well, can't see shore once outside, outgoing tide should me I am drifting south, a few others around me, but unpredictable crumbly waves are such that no one is getting much. Best wave was floating -over-the-fall take off to successful landing, and crumbling waves allows to to carve around to mushy shoulder. When I get out, have drift 6 blocks, despite me paddling north most of the time. friend #1 later says he was denied by short period ceaselessness.
Sunday - Repeat of Saturday. Fatigue from yesterday nearly results in similar fate as Friend #1 from day before, but luckily drifted into rip and was able to hold breath through rip peak smashes. Less fog helps make it easier to find waves. Am paying price for not riding bike to work every day. Later find out I should have gone in the afternoon, but had to go early as Sweetie-pie's friend in moving to Portland, so went on one last cross-town urban hike. Tripped on brick steps and gouged up the shin pretty well.
Popped the cherry on my mitsven gentlemans stap. Not quite step up waves but definitely good enough. Board paddles like a dream but is pure business in the back. Just what the doctor ordered. Wish I had more waves as I was out of synch and didn't have time but at least I got in the water. TP glass fins on first go, will try JJF next.