***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[Kento]

Rained a bit last night and knew it would be windy early on today. But low tide early also. Got there at 7 and it was absolute trash. Dumpy closeouts - watched the dawn patrol crew make it look exactly like as bad as it was. Wandered about, took a couple pisses while I thought about it, started to clean up once that tide filled in. Used the new Senate and it's just a different board than I'm used to I guess. Swell also started coming in a little, made for some waist to head high combo swell, with some actually surprisingly decent peaks. Started getting that board a little wired; actually handled some steeper drops pretty well. Thanks again Aruka for those fins. Held when I needed them to.

Kooked a couple waves unfortunately getting that board wired but at least a couple dozen fun waves in the 2 hours I was out, with the majority on the back hour of that sesh. Light offshore winds all morning, toasty water (60ish I'd say), and bright sunny skies. Although just enough fog to obscure tree/mountain lineups. Got two last waves in last 3 minutes or so, the last with a nice little roundhouse cutback into a small inside floater and that was good enough to end it. Was hard to go in as was having a really fun sesh at that point but it was time. Fog rolled in with the wind, I'm guessing, right behind it.

Kicking myself on one where the plan was to backdoor into a barrel but just going way too fast, completely accelerated through it almost before it happened, did cut back into it but wave was spent at that point. Board is not slow down the line and holds on bottom turns; a good aspect of it. Oh and by the way, it's not tube dodging, it's increasing your margin of error.

 

[Aruka]

Yesterday we went out to a south wind spot that I haven't surfed in at least a couple of years. I've had some scary experiences out there in the past so I'm always a little nervous when driving out to check it. The wind was strong in the parking lot. The sky was low and grey. The waves looked pretty fun and it was hard to tell from the cliff but it didn't look too big and scary. My buddy said overhead but I thought it was just like chest high. My buddy was more correct than I was. The sets were overhead and fairly juicy but it was manageable. The spot we were surfing was different from where we used to surf out there. The sand bar was further out and right up next to a pile of rocks. A strong rip was running out to sea next to the rocks and the rights were coming in and wedging up next to the rip, kind of like a jetty wave. The strong offshores and long running lines made it a challenge to get in and down the line but once we figured out which waves to pick we did pretty well. My first wave was actually one of my best as it had a makeable first section and then a long wall which i managed to make around the corner and then it slowed up and allowed for a couple turns through the inside. I think I only connected one other wave all the way through like that but I still got plenty of fun ones. GBX felt pretty good although honestly a bigger board would have been nice just to get in early and battle the rip. A rain squall came through at one point and it was raining so hard that it became difficult to see the waves coming. It was beautiful though.

Today the swell was up and I surfed locally in the afternoon. Some residual bump was present in the water from the previous day's storm. I finally got to ride the new-to-me 6-6 Album and it felt pretty great. Ran the rasta twin trailer set. Lots of speed and easy to turn in the overhead waves which had both steep and flat sections and plenty of push. Overall the waves were pretty marginal and it was a lot of work to get one but it was a gorgeous day on the water. Above was a blue sky and to the east impossibly white cumulus clouds towered above the freshly soaked, green mountains.

 

[Sam_K]

My shortboards are 34 liters but decided to take out my girlfriend's 28 liter Rocket Wide for fcks and giggles. Had a great time for about 90 minutes, then she joined me in the lineup with her 23 liter Sharpeye #77.

Let's go, it's a day to be small! So we switched boards and I paddled furiously and managed to catch 2 waves with that wafer thin little joke. Felt pretty proud of myself.

Now my back hurts from paddling around on those little toy boards.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Desperation bar again. Very clean. Fuse worked well.

 

[Havoc]

some fun ones today despite meager conditions. most would roll through and not break. managed some fun rights on the new kazuma. feels like a 6'2 shortboar up and riding and i can get fs wraps and carves on it, st i struggled to on the wtfo with keels. felt good to tag the lip on a few and the pivot and drive off the bottom is addicting. can't wait for more waves so i can ride it more.

 

[JDJ]

I've had some scary experiences out there in the past so I'm always a little nervous when driving out to check it.

Don't even want to know what those might have been

 

[Havoc]

Don't even want to know what those might have been

hippy chicks who want him to take them to his secret waterfall...

 

[enframed]

Met The Mayor of Tower 45 at Porto today. What fucking kook asshole.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned the regular on my green Moonfish. Waves were slow but some shoulder high plus nuggets would roll in. My BIL who hasn’t surfed in almost a year due to back issues paddled out and got a couple. He stood up on his first wave and after almost fumbling did a couple of wraps on the inside.

Some younger guy with a little ponytail paddled out and tried to snake me on a set. I thought I heard someone try to hoot me off but I was going anyway. It was one of the bigger waves of the morning but there were huge boat wakes on it. As I paddled back out I asked was someone behind me? Tetsuo pointed him out. He tried to paddle for the next set too and I blocked him and told my BIL to go.

I guess he could feel the vibe in the lineup turn against him and he tried to say sorry. I told him to f*ck off. He said I’m trying to apologize. I told him too late, we all know each other and we were taking turns and cheering each other into waves. You want to come out and be aggressive we can be aggressive too. He tried to say something else I told him don’t talk to me I’m still irritated. I’m going to block you or burn you on every wave and if I don’t my friends will. He drifted down toward Rockpiles and ended up going in. There was a young lady who paddled out just before him, she told us good morning sat inside and got a ton of little nuggets.

 

[oeste858]

Mon afternoon. Had to wait out high tide but finally saw some decent little runners at the main reef. Beautiful sunny day, caught a bunch of rights in my 30min; water had some cool spots.
First surf on a 6’4 Plasmic eggy twin. Boar caught the soft waves easily and had a ton of speed. Will be interesting to figure this board out.

 

[Woke AF]

Waves had some pop today. Off-shore, overhead and clean. 6'4 Rdtailpintwin for the win.
$$$$

 

[Mr Doof]

Day two of somewhat unorganized swell.

More oomph yesterday, but cleaner today.

Met up with Friend #1 at paddle out and lost the race to the outside. I blame my lack of fitness and his luck/skill combo.

Not optimal tide conditions, but par for the course for the dawn patrol and you make due.

Best wave was before the last take off. Actually being in right place was more important than being able to "paddle like a monster for it", in other words, took me a while to finesse the take off. Finesse skills seems to fade faster than fitness, but do come back a little faster than the fitness part.

Last wave was going great until puff of offshore held me up longer than I thought (in retrospect, needed another arm stroke) and did the floating take-off of doom. Came up way inside, then decided bellied it in.

Tying laces back at the car had multiple water draining events....a taste of winter already.

Lower part of the ribs getting a little less sensitive with each surf.

 

[PRCD]

Road the Griffin Modfish 2 in knee-waist high mush today. A couple of bigger sets came in that let me do a bigger rentry and a wrap. Water was trunkable and the weather was hot. Not sure why everyone is wearing 3/2s in 70 degree water unless they're emaciated.

I know Griffin gets flamed on here but this board is magic and he's great to order from. This board surfs much better than my HPSB with a normal thruster outline. It has more rail line and more width under the chest with the wide point moved a bit further up. Guys who lift weights need this.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Road the Griffin Modfish 2 in knee-waist high mush today. A couple of bigger sets came in that let me do a bigger rentry and a wrap. Water was trunkable and the weather was hot. Not sure why everyone is wearing 3/2s in 70 degree water unless they're emaciated.

Were you at PPP 2 weeks ago, Sunday arvo? Got a stach and beard?

 

[oeste858]

High tide swamping most of the zone, so was stocked to see the local longboard point with some little waist-high dreamers running through. Sideshore wind was actually kinda grooming it. Only had 30 min so decided to trunk it. Not warm but I kept busy for my 26 min of water time. Surfed the 6’4 twin egg plasmic much more like a normal boar rather than a midlength doofus from the front 2/3 like yesterday. Boar is pretty flat and paddles and catches waves like a bigger boar (like my 7’ Dankness, actually). Had some nice lil rights that peeled down the line for a long way. Got a good feel for the boar: pumping, trimming, carving, slashing. Very nimble and responsive. Fun. Lots of potential for this plasmic channel on a boar with a slightly longer rail line, as I hoped. Excited.

 

[Woke AF]

Were you at PPP 2 weeks ago, Sunday arvo? Got a stach and beard?

Yeah, handsome devil.

 

[bluengreen]

Probably paddled out as Doof was bellying in. Solid overhead, clean peaks rolling through. Loud crack and boom sound I haven't heard in many months. Found the rip just north of Noriega and got out pretty easy before paddling against the current and past a densely packed peak until I was nice and (almost) alone. Rode the crutch 7'4 SOC because my back is feeling funky. Got some sweet drops, high lines and carves. Was barrel hunting at first, but got clamped on a couple of times. Sprinted inside to grab a double up and got caught up just long enough to get air under the board and go down with the lip. NIce thrashing followed another one breaking just in front of me. Good time to go in and get to work!

 

[Aruka]

Yesterday was pretty fun at the local. Clean winds. First paddled at the more exposed spot on the 6-6 Bpunt and got a few fun ones but it was pretty wild and hard to get one to line up. Came in after an hour and walked back to the lot, planning on calling it quits. The wave out front was starting to look fun with the higher tide and only a couple guys were out so I thought I'd switch boards and see if I could get a couple.

It was chest to head high peaks that were shifty but fun. 5-10 Lightbender felt golden. Was focusing on backside carves instead of trying to do snaps as I usually do. Had a few good ones. Best wave was a right that allowed for two good slashes. Just me, another old local and a random longboarder who was moderately annoying but not a huge factor. Really fun waves.

Today I didn't surf until afternoon. Pretty marginal beachies to the south. I think it was kind of good when I first pulled up but I lollygagged and then paddled out right as the wind and tide conspired to mess it all up. Still got a few on the I72. A couple hits from the backside snap crack pipe is enough to keep me going.

 

[sdsrfr]

Easily my best session of summer. Groomed chip shot entries into a punchy grower coming off low tide.

Just me and a buddy on our peak for over an hour. Legs gave out before the arms.

Felt like snowboarding in powder on the plasmic. Stocked.

 

[Tarab_ish]

Surfed the beach yesterday evening and this one. Imperfect both times but nice to be out there. A few swoops.

Feeling very grateful to be able to surf and feeling healthy. Talked to a guy on the beach who I've always seen charging who's apparently out for the winter with a rotator cuff injury. I'm feeling like I'm getting back into paddling shape relatively quickly, and I've been taking cardio fitness more seriously than I did in the past.

Dusted off a board that I picked up used 10 years ago, thought felt pretty weird and it's just been in a pile in my side yard ever since. It goes great. It seems obvious in hindsight, but after all the semi-alt boards I've been riding it took me a while to realize that a conventional roundtail shortboard just works, and that a thruster helps you do tight-arced turns. Who'da thunk it. It feels about as "alive" as a new one, but I'm kinda digging that it's super sun-tanned. It's like a sleeper -- I think it'll make me feel cooler if I'm able to surf well on it.