REMINDER: THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to monitor the Forums. However, THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to review any materials submitted to or posted on the Forums, and remove, delete, redact or otherwise modify such materials, in its sole discretion and for any reason whatsoever, at any time and from time to time, without notice or further obligation to you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. has no obligation to display or post any materials provided by you. THE ARENA PLATFORM, INC. reserves the right to disclose, at any time and from time to time, any information or materials that we deem necessary or appropriate to satisfy any applicable law, regulation, contract obligation, legal or dispute process or government request. Click on the following hyperlinks to further read the applicable Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.
***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Warm pools but plenty of cold water to numb the fingers waiting out the lulls.
plasmic still working down to ankle high bs, either the longest honeymoon I’ve ever had or this thing just works.
groms must be back in school, a pack of 10 paddled out right around the time they’d be finished wit their homework.
other two duuu’s who were out split on the next set. lol.
plasmic still working down to ankle high bs, either the longest honeymoon I’ve ever had or this thing just works.
groms must be back in school, a pack of 10 paddled out right around the time they’d be finished wit their homework.
other two duuu’s who were out split on the next set. lol.
Last edited:
Dawned the regular on the Mojo. Waves dropped quite a bit and the high tide was making the waves soft. Still was fun talking crap and trying to make shoulders crumble on Gregg.
The crew was talking with Malcolm about Bernie his wife that just passed. I told him the understand this story and how Bernie would make the fist into palm gesture to me off and on for a year.
Got a couple of little nuggets and went vert on them but wasn’t that motivated knowing there’s more swell coming.
Best wave was one of the Nihonjin girls that dawn patrol Chizu. I was going to whip on a runner but she was in a better spot and I told her to go. It stayed open and when she got to the inside sprayed Gregg right in the face. It’s what I would’ve done. The lineup was cracking up. Haha.
The crew was talking with Malcolm about Bernie his wife that just passed. I told him the understand this story and how Bernie would make the fist into palm gesture to me off and on for a year.
Got a couple of little nuggets and went vert on them but wasn’t that motivated knowing there’s more swell coming.
Best wave was one of the Nihonjin girls that dawn patrol Chizu. I was going to whip on a runner but she was in a better spot and I told her to go. It stayed open and when she got to the inside sprayed Gregg right in the face. It’s what I would’ve done. The lineup was cracking up. Haha.
Funky steep angle North swell. Tiny in the bay and big everywhere else. Couldn't find anything to surf in the morning. Plenty of swell for the first time in ages but nothing working. Bummed. Called it and went to work.
Checked my little beachie to the south in the evening and a little more energy was getting in. Felt tired but just wanted to get wet. Paddled out on the Sharpeye. Got a few fun ones right away. A buddy showed up and we had a fun session. Super fast little wedges. Mostly just enough room for a turn or two but the faces were cupped out and punchy. Sharpeye was flying. Had a few super fun waves and ended the session on a good one.
Checked my little beachie to the south in the evening and a little more energy was getting in. Felt tired but just wanted to get wet. Paddled out on the Sharpeye. Got a few fun ones right away. A buddy showed up and we had a fun session. Super fast little wedges. Mostly just enough room for a turn or two but the faces were cupped out and punchy. Sharpeye was flying. Had a few super fun waves and ended the session on a good one.
I caught the biggest wave I have ridden at my local beachie this morning and the heaviest wave too. Both lefts which is backhand for me. One other person in who I did not recognise. He was in the channel after a ride and gave me the shaka sign at the end of my heaviest wave. The afternoon was more mellow and I felt on form. Days like this make me think I am getting better at surfing.
Waves were small and soft cause of the rising tide. Choke chicks on longboards. Best wave a girl on a 8’0 or so mini paddles right in my line I tried to high line over her and ended up going over the back of the wave. She said sorry right away and I told her she should’ve paddled the other way or just stopped and sat up. The white wash that would’ve hit her was knee high. Knee high on an Asian midget. My last wave in surfed past Neal/Sponge with my leash caught on my toes. Went past him and tried to do a Craig Anderson knock knee cutback. Haha.
Jesse swam out yesterday and got some shots. I forgot he doesn’t have a fisheye like Neal so when I came close he dove under.
Kirby Fukunaga, he’s Tammy Moniz’ brother and uncle to Seth etc. Used to be a pro in Japan, still rips and is an ace on a foil.
Me on the HIC Mojo.
Getting a little close to the photog.
Jesse swam out yesterday and got some shots. I forgot he doesn’t have a fisheye like Neal so when I came close he dove under.
Kirby Fukunaga, he’s Tammy Moniz’ brother and uncle to Seth etc. Used to be a pro in Japan, still rips and is an ace on a foil.
Me on the HIC Mojo.
Getting a little close to the photog.
Super fun down in NOC this a.m clean glassy waist to shoulder high and just running lefts up and down the beach. Flare with the medium WCTs. First good sesh in what feels like a month, hit it around 10 barely anyone else in the water around this peak wound up on the conveyor belt for about an hour and a half till I got out of rhythm. Water cooled off a bit but a great day to be during in SoCal. Stocked
Did a morning drive-by of the main reef and was kinda firing with HH sets so I was frothing to get to ride something other than a 7'er. Unfortunately, issues kept popping up at a job site and I couldn't break away from work until the afternoon high tide. the main reefs were packed (sunny Friday afternoon) so I settled for reef #3- usually handles high tide but it's almost always softer/slopier than it looks from shore. I really only had 15-20min of water time so I played it safe with the 7' dankness quad and left the lightbringer in the truck. Glad I did: the waves just kept backing off and most missed the usual outside peak. Only got 3-4 waist-high rights and it was pretty underwhelming. Still, it was a hot sunny day and water felt great. Could be worse. Hope to get another shot at the weekend swell
Basically the same. Work ran into my surf window, then I had to take a pet to the vet because my wife's morning meeting ran late too, it took forever, finally got to my favorite C grade summer high tide reform as the tide peaked but it looked decent. The crowd paddled out right after me however and the sinus infection I thought I kicked kicked back. I surfed like GARBAGE. Oh well, beautiful afternoon in warm water. I kept it short because I wasn't going to get any better. Hopefully tomorrow holds better things.
Big south on the way for us and a few days later for CA.
I'm going right now. My favorite buoy says 3.3 @ 15 s.
Guys that weren't surfing like they had a head full of snot were having a good time. I think I burnt my feet on the walk though.
someone must have tipped off SD county that there might be waves today. ridic crowds everywhere you looked.
afternoon and evening sesh. my feet are burnt too.
afternoon and evening sesh. my feet are burnt too.
Driving up the 101 this evening the sun was a bright red orb floating in the high smoke from the fires burning inland. A long line of RV's and overlandvanlifemobiles clogged the two lane highway in both directions. "Is this hell?", I wondered as I drove along at a miserable 40 miles per hour. My phone was blowing up with texts, each of which only added to my anguish. "Peaky, overhead, firing" were the headlines.
Finally arriving at the jetty I could see that I had not suffered in vain. Overhead peaks up and down the beach in the lee of the river jetty. Glassy conditions. I almost opted for a step up but I've been having so much fun on the Infernal Sharpie that I decided to stick with it. The parking lot is close by at this spot so it's easy to switch boards anyways. I paddled out next to the jetty and past a few rando vanlifers on midlengths and limp dick lopez softies who looked scared of the main peak. A mid sized double up came bending across the bar and I paddled lazily for it, thinking that my positioning was good enough to glide in early. Nope, the thing lurched, I got pitched and thoroughly worked. Yeehaw. Luckily there was nothing behind it and I was able to get back out without doing the run around. The next couple waves I took more seriously and scratched hard for them with much better results. There was both lefts and rights. Both were fun. Really nice power. The board felt great. There was lots of waves. Super shifty and challenging but never a dull moment. None of the randos lasted long and eventually it was just me and my friend out there for about two hours. The fog bank that had been lingering on the horizon finally moved in and it felt like a good time to end the session. My buddy said it best as we compared notes back at our trucks, "I could surf waves like this every day for the rest of my life and be happy".
Finally arriving at the jetty I could see that I had not suffered in vain. Overhead peaks up and down the beach in the lee of the river jetty. Glassy conditions. I almost opted for a step up but I've been having so much fun on the Infernal Sharpie that I decided to stick with it. The parking lot is close by at this spot so it's easy to switch boards anyways. I paddled out next to the jetty and past a few rando vanlifers on midlengths and limp dick lopez softies who looked scared of the main peak. A mid sized double up came bending across the bar and I paddled lazily for it, thinking that my positioning was good enough to glide in early. Nope, the thing lurched, I got pitched and thoroughly worked. Yeehaw. Luckily there was nothing behind it and I was able to get back out without doing the run around. The next couple waves I took more seriously and scratched hard for them with much better results. There was both lefts and rights. Both were fun. Really nice power. The board felt great. There was lots of waves. Super shifty and challenging but never a dull moment. None of the randos lasted long and eventually it was just me and my friend out there for about two hours. The fog bank that had been lingering on the horizon finally moved in and it felt like a good time to end the session. My buddy said it best as we compared notes back at our trucks, "I could surf waves like this every day for the rest of my life and be happy".
