***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

[oeste858]

Up in LA over the weekend. Didn't surf but was blown away by how crowded ChartHouse along PCH in Malibu was. It was 2' and feeble but there were 100 guys! looked like the superbank. All wavestorms logs, and mids. I can't imagine how packed Topanga and Malibu would've been on weekend morning.
No thanks.

 

[sdsrfr]

Up in LA over the weekend. Didn't surf but was blown away by how crowded ChartHouse along PCH in Malibu was. It was 2' and feeble but there were 100 guys! looked like the superbank. All wavestorms lbs, and mids. I can't imagine how packed Topanga and Malibu would've been on weekend morning.
No thanks.

Bra, was that you drag racing the supra by Neptunes?

siiiiiick times, but I couldn’t even get any cell reception.

 

[Kento]

Up in LA over the weekend. Didn't surf but was blown away by how crowded ChartHouse along PCH in Malibu was. It was 2' and feeble but there were 100 guys! looked like the superbank. All wavestorms lbs, and mids. I can't imagine how packed Topanga and Malibu would've been on weekend morning.
No thanks.

You're talking about Charthouse and not Sunslop or Topanga?! I grew up around that area and that is about 50 times more people that I've seen there in total of all the time. That's not really a wavestorm/funboard type of break, more of an indicator than anything else.

 

[oeste858]

You're talking about Charthouse and not Sunslop or Topanga?! I grew up around that area and that is about 50 times more people that I've seen there in total of all the time. That's not really a wavestorm/funboard type of break, more of an indicator than anything else.

Exactly! That’s why I was so shocked. It’s sucks. I never surfed there in the years I lived in LA. I guess just easily accesible from PCH for the WFH vals

 

[Kento]

Exactly! That’s why I was so shocked. It’s sucks. I never surfed there in the years I lived in LA. I guess just easily accesible from PCH for the WFH vals

Imagine how worse everywhere else would be if it weren't for Sunslop and (now, apparently) Charthouse.

 

[ZZ Soft Top]

Last two weeks have suuuuuuuuuuucked with morning sickness every AM. Any spot that picks up south swell and has moderate wind protection is already mobbed at dawn. (See the posts above.) I extra hate surfing in LA during this time of year.

 

[MathDebater]

First surf in a few weeks due to injury. Tired and sore from working out to try and blow off steam from work without my usual surf routine. Only slightly kooked it up, nothing special but it felt great to be in the water and go fast a few times.

 

[CutnSnip]

Up in LA over the weekend. Didn't surf but was blown away by how crowded ChartHouse along PCH in Malibu was. It was 2' and feeble but there were 100 guys! looked like the superbank. All wavestorms logs, and mids. I can't imagine how packed Topanga and Malibu would've been on weekend morning.
No thanks.

oh no.. i havent checked that cam in a few years as i knew it just hasnt lined up for that spot, but it was one of the last little nugs round these parts. had a few really epic days over there back in the day and ive never seen more than a handfull of people there at any given time. its basically a novelty.

 

[Mr J]

helmet cam

well overhead for a midget
arms flapping in all the wrong directions 3/10

Over Elf height. I haven't grown since the last vid, still flapping my arms. Fortunately no one else in to see the spectacle of my silly helmet cam. I plow through a load of white water then manage something at the end of the wave, so I'm hoping for a 4/10. Realistically I was overscored on that previous effort, so I will be happy with another 3 out 10.

I thought the take off was great, but after downloading the vid it didn't even look like I was surfing, so I edited that out.

edit --> on board my 5' 6" 22.5L local custom HPSB. This works better at this sheltered spot than my 5' 7" annual build which I reserve for the open ocean.

 

[Mr J]

Wind was still blowing NW at 28kts at midnight last night so morning sickness was a given. Paddled out around 8 and was pleasantly surprised by how fun it looked while beach and water were desolate. Head high to a few feet overhead on sets. Nice to use that 6'7" roundpin as had to fight to get into the waves. Super low tide but the rip still generally held true and shorebreak was almost nonexistent. Alas, 2/3 of the way out, had to duckdive a wave that swung wide, would have been hairdry aside from that. Got some really fun lefts right off the bat with several halfway decent turns. Wind turned offshore around 9, which lasted about 45 minutes before turning right back to NW at 10+kts. Water heated up to about 51 or so, which felt balmy compared to last weekend.

The rights were kind of garbage but the lefts held up a long ways, enough to get at least a few sizable turns in, but would leave you right in the sandbar churn. Couple times I was able to fight over the top but as two other guys paddled out, got a left, which I ended with a big carve all the way around into the flats. Felt good but wished I had just kicked out because I took about 40 waves on the head trying to get back over that sandbar while going pretty much nowhere. Eventually acquiesced and paddled sideways towards the rip, out, and all the way around. Laughed with that one guy as he had just done exactly the same when I caught that one. 20 minutes of 8-9 second period nuisance paddling. All that paddling/duckdiving took the p*ss out of me since I had been out for about 2 hours already pretty much non-stop paddling, calves cramped up and all that. Blew what would have been a couple good last lefts purely from fatigue until got a decent left that went a ways and then ended with a big hack off closeout section and in with a pause to take leak #5 for the session.

Now off to take the family fishing.

Kento, you said 6' 7" roundpin - is that your vintage board? Your new one is a squash tail isn't it.

 

[rowjimmytour]

Over Elf height. I haven't grown since the last vid, still flapping my arms. Fortunately no one else in to see the spectacle of my silly helmet cam. I plow through a load of white water then manage something at the end of the wave, so I'm hoping for a 4/10. Realistically I was overscored on that previous effort, so I will be happy with another 3 out 10.

I thought the take off was great, but after downloading the vid it didn't even look like I was surfing, so I edited that out.

edit --> on board my 5' 6" 22.5L local custom HPSB. This works better at this sheltered spot than my 5' 7" annual build which I reserve for the open ocean.

You bring a helmet and gopro out surfing? I am not sure what is worse helmet or butt plug mouth mount Seriously curious why you need to video sessions in below par waves? Instant gratification post on social media? Do you learn how to surf better next time and if so why not have someone video from shore?

 

[Kento]

Kento, you said 6' 7" roundpin - is that your vintage board? Your new one is a squash tail isn't it.

Along with most of my functioning quiver, that board is right around 20 years old. A little yellowed in places, beginnings of a buckle around midpoint, base of the center fin is starting to crack a little but it's still got a lot of life in it. Absolutely great board for solid waves; turns extremely well while rarely sliding out, any limitations are purely operator-based. I really need to have it cloned before it's too late.

The two new boards I have gotten in the last 10 years have sucked. The QuiverKiller and then this new one. Not surprised about the new one as there was a lot of drama getting it shaped and glassed that I don't feel like reliving again; I tried to remain as upbeat as possible about the whole thing but I'm a little bitter about how the process went along with the end result. To the point that the thought of getting a new board stresses me out.

 

[i_ride_spinnaz]

Got into it w/ a dude in the water the other day. Guy was out w/ his son, being super overly aggressive in not so good waist to chest high reef surf. Burned me pretty bad on one, I called him off of it, and he tried to cut back into me and take me out. As I'm paddling back out, dude spins on the next one. Me, being me, said f-uck that, and spun and burned him back. He then launched his board at me. Paddling back out I called him out for being an fuggin asshole and told him to chill the f-uck out, to which he responded "I have a gun" . I'm like lol wtf, you got one on you right now?. Is that what it's come to? Guy calls you out for being a prick and you tell him you own a firearm in response? Shi'ts weak.

Later, I was reflecting on it, and it made me so grateful for my dad being one of the most mellow, well-liked guys in the water and setting such a good example for me growing up.

Beyond that, yesterday was fun and today sucked. New twin fun is a blast, really enjoying it.

 

[Kento]

Got into it w/ a dude in the water the other day. Guy was out w/ his son, being super overly aggressive in not so good waist to chest high reef surf. Burned me pretty bad on one, I called him off of it, and he tried to cut back into me and take me out. As I'm paddling back out, dude spins on the next one. Me, being me, said f-uck that, and spun and burned him back. He then launched his board at me. Paddling back out I called him out for being an fuggin asshole and told him to chill the f-uck out, to which he responded "I have a gun" . I'm like lol wtf, you got one on you right now?. Is that what it's come to? Guy calls you out for being a prick and you tell him you own a firearm in response? Shi'ts weak.

Should have told him to then go the fuck to Swamis like everyone else when it gets over 3' Duffy.


OH that kind of gun. What a chump. Hadn't heard that one before.

 

[rowjimmytour]

Got into it w/ a dude in the water the other day. Guy was out w/ his son, being super overly aggressive in not so good waist to chest high reef surf. Burned me pretty bad on one, I called him off of it, and he tried to cut back into me and take me out. As I'm paddling back out, dude spins on the next one. Me, being me, said f-uck that, and spun and burned him back. He then launched his board at me. Paddling back out I called him out for being an fuggin asshole and told him to chill the f-uck out, to which he responded "I have a gun" . I'm like lol wtf, you got one on you right now?. Is that what it's come to? Guy calls you out for being a prick and you tell him you own a firearm in response? Shi'ts weak.

Later, I was reflecting on it, and it made me so grateful for my dad being one of the most mellow, well-liked guys in the water and setting such a good example for me growing up.

Beyond that, yesterday was fun and today sucked. New twin fun is a blast, really enjoying it.

People like this really do need a beating but all the beating in the world still would not take the entitlement out of a$$ clowns like this

 

[oeste858]

Quick lil nooner at the main reef in skatepark conditions. Plasmic with Rasta upright twins loved the chest high wedges with crumbly lips. FS slashes felt nice and whippy. As the tide came up, new swell filled in, and sidewind stayed manageable. Crowd went from 20 to 10 while I was out so my better waves were at the end. Stoked to get in the water after a few days.

Maybe it’s in my head, but I think these Rasta twins have the same subtle spring from turn to turn as the Muchacho blackstix that I like as my thruster. Supposed to have some concave or some crap

 

[Aruka]

short interval sand bar runners up North this morning. size was borderline grovely looking from the parking lot so I rode the 5-10 SMTH w/ NVS quads. it ended up being a little bigger than I expected, closer to chest high than to waist high, but I was still stoked on the board choice. it never felt overpowered and it was nice to have a little cheat factor for some of the walled up little peelers. pretty consistent. clear and cold water. just a few friends. got a few really fun waves. overcooked a few end section turns but overall felt like I surfed okay considering how little water time I've had in the past couple weeks.

 

[Havoc]

Are you retards still doing this stupid hobby?

IT'S SPRING!!!!! TIME TO RUN AMONGST THE FLOWERS

make sure to put one in ur hair so u look pretty for ur viking brothers!

 

[Mr J]

You bring a helmet and gopro out surfing? I am not sure what is worse helmet or butt plug mouth mount Seriously curious why you need to video sessions in below par waves? Instant gratification post on social media? Do you learn how to surf better next time and if so why not have someone video from shore?

Jimmy, I don't have a good answer about the gopro! I take it out occasionally and more likely in sub par conditions because I don't want to distract from the experience of being in good waves. As I said in the "can your surfing get better thread" I'm not getting any better. Getting someone to video from shore would be expensive and the mouthpiece gopro seems awkward.

However, what is wrong with wearing a helmet? I always do when the water is warm enough, when its cold I'm wearing hooded wettie instead. I wear one skateboarding too.

 

[Mr J]

Along with most of my functioning quiver, that board is right around 20 years old. A little yellowed in places, beginnings of a buckle around midpoint, base of the center fin is starting to crack a little but it's still got a lot of life in it. Absolutely great board for solid waves; turns extremely well while rarely sliding out, any limitations are purely operator-based. I really need to have it cloned before it's too late.

The two new boards I have gotten in the last 10 years have sucked. The QuiverKiller and then this new one. Not surprised about the new one as there was a lot of drama getting it shaped and glassed that I don't feel like reliving again; I tried to remain as upbeat as possible about the whole thing but I'm a little bitter about how the process went along with the end result. To the point that the thought of getting a new board stresses me out.

Yes, it seems time to give up on looking for a recent design and get a copy of your favourite board made. Not just the outline, get the rocker replicated and fin positions too. How wide is it? Narrower than the QuiverKiller which didn't go for you? I didn't realise getting your recent custom was such a painful experience.