***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,012
17,451
113
San Diego, CA
hm... 3L too many for me otherwise I’d offer to take it off your hands.
It’s already spoken for, with a waitlist if the first guy backs out. LOL

Boltz, flamez, snakez and skullz!

Also, be careful with that lightning near the ocean...
... and camo, gotta have some camo if you’re gonna have skulls
 
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ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
270
200
43
Big Asian Island
I've been watching a hollow, ledgey, sketchy wave develop down the beach since last fall. It doesn't break that much but when it does it's pretty tempting. It's always been a hair too big to go take a look so I always check other spots that are breaking at that size. This morning nothing was really doing that well, even the beach down the way, but that sketchy ass wave was doing its thing. It was incredibly bumpy with a little wind but the snow and wind were forecast to chill out so I went back to work and kept an eye on the ocean. Almost right to forecast everything backed off at 3 so saved my files and shut down the computer. When I got to the beach it shaped up a little but still had plenty of sketch in it. The paddle out was like Haleiwa bouncing off every bit of chop but the current was blasting so got out in no time. Never surfed this spot so just hung out where I thought it was going to break and when the next set came through got a little puckered. Full-on sucked out slab with some dry reef on the side. It was a solid 6 foot and when the next set came through I put my head down and airdropped into the thing. Warbles, bumps, it has it all, and freaked when I saw the bottom. Scary shallow. Made the next few sections and pulled outta that sucker. The current was fully ripping and sucked me back out to the top with only a little paddle. Sets were building and after riding that one, decided to call it good and revisit it when it's a little more chill. One and done! :giggle:
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,937
3,074
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Speaking of skulls... (merging with the CL thread)

speaking of skulls, it was bound to happen surfing the same spot four days in a row with a mix of skill levels, some young guy on a longboard with a leash somehow blew takeoff as I was paddling over the shoulder and his board shot up sideways straight at my head, i twisted and threw up my right arm to block it and the board bounced off my elbow and grazed my head, the most painful part was the sudden movement to block tweaked my jacked up shoulder, I yelled at the guy and later almost ran him over but told him don't worry I won't hit you , one of us knows what we are doing. He apologized multiple times and I told him he was lucky he hit a friendly old grumpy local. lol
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,012
17,451
113
San Diego, CA
Beautiful conditions this morning. No swell. Maybe take the glider out for a paddle this afternoon

Edit: mini-glided this afternoon. 10 lil knee-high runners. Nice to get wet and wash off the week.
 
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b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,937
3,074
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
Sunny warm glassy and small. Didn’t go to the name spot where I took a board upside the head yesterday, instead went down the street and had a great time on the LB with a couple people. Know I am gonna paddle tomorrow. Paddle out for my old friend and classmate “Lips” tomorrow. If you surfed Abs or IB you probably surfed with him, a true classic who will be missed.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,998
21,401
113
The Bar
Short period windswell, about 2-4'. Pretty mushy although a few sections here and there stood up. Almost made it hair dry until set came in right as I was almost out the back. Oh well. There was a nice sandbar right but current was relentless at pulling you off of it. Expended a lot of energy staying on it but I did get a couple that linked all the way to the inside. A couple I kooked but otherwise decent sesh; felt a little unlimber overall. Long paddles back out, was pretty spent after about 2 hours. Doesn't help that my thicker 6'6" gets gradually more waterlogged as it goes. Splurged and picked up a pair of XCel drylock 5mm booties. Toasty but a little stiff in the ankles. Hoping that gets better as they get broken in.

A few seals cruising through the lineup and chowing down on fish. Did not complain when was joined by a few other people although was pretty spread out. I sat out the back, waiting for the bigger ones, regretting a couple I let go through but they didn't go to waste so that was cool. Fun day and beautiful out on top of it.
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
Mid day maintenance sesh

Small and clean with some pretty fun lefts finding me , rode the WTF twinzer and got a few turns in before running onto dry sand .

Looked like a summer day on the beach with plenty of talent.

I will take it