You guys live in such a litigious country. Just run them over if you can't slap them around a bit. Or better still, root their mum (consensually of course).
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Despite being in the Adult Learner Zone, I was pleasantly surprised with how fun it was, and left super stoked.smaller today and actually got some fun ones on the fluse
tanner was down the beach getting some cruisy lefts on his chandler mid length. nice crisp morning
same bar again today where we 000'd kento yesterday (which begs the question, can a few locs even 000 a tranny? isnt that when its time for said tranny to drift off? which to his credit he did but still have to ask for a friend
Wait, are you also a North Coast guy? I thought you were an SFer.same bar again today where we 000'd kento yesterday (which begs the question, can a few locs even 000 a tranny? isnt that when its time for said tranny to drift off? which to his credit he did but still have to ask for a friend
that nub of sand held up for hours. the rare ones wedged into a bowl that drained the bar. it did turn in to a friends and family session, which is all good but... we still have wave count to consider so, it brings us to
today where nobody wanted it(still not sure what the 20+ sheep were doing a bit north. mustve of looked sick from in front or something, but actual waves ridden? ha. well they did seem to be staying in one spot which is more than i can say for my poor decision)
oh yeah today, fricking treadmill today, high tide pushing it right onto the shelf. short interval cross swell and local wind. youd see random cylinders spitting their guts out 10ft off the sand but it was a paddle your ass off and hope to drift into one game of preparation meets opportunity without the opportunity part.
you had a chance if you didnt take the bait a try to get the deep ones. the very definition of carrot peak. get lured and youre gone. might as well tuck tail to the beach and walk back. paddling it you aint.
still gave it a 90 min exercise sess of non stop paddling. found a couple rollin to kegger but was more concerned about breaking another board in shore pound than anything else. (fuking covid shortage) took a bit to hit the daily dale 3 mark. after that wasted a couple in the bonus rounds by imitating rocky the flying sqirrel before dog dooring it clear of disaster and stepping onto wet sand board and ligaments intact. omfg thanks and thats enough of that.
I know the rules, but this spot needs to be named. We could do an AB3 style cancel culture on the groms.I'm interested in how y'all handle the latest breed of groms. I've seen them burning good guys and they seem to show up in packs dropped off by their mother.
I sent a PM.I know the rules, but this spot needs to be named. We could do an AB3 style cancel culture on the groms.
Where are you? Don't have to name the spot (obviously), just curious which general area of the world.Post blizzard report as I warm up in my truck eating cold pizza. Hour and a half of fun head-well overhead lefts at my local. Cold getting pelted by freezing rain and snow and about 15” of snow on beach. I guess this is what one has to do to surf alone these days. Good surf until tide got too low. 6’1 Robert’s g step up for the win.
NYWhere are you? Don't have to name the spot (obviously), just curious which general area of the world.