***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
268
200
43
Big Asian Island
After 4 years of living in front of the local the waves clicked and I felt like an actual local. Full disclosure, the waves here are not that great. I've seen it at its best and worst and it's most definitely not one to write home about. I had a handful of sessions that were ok but I didn't quite have my boards dialed and had been out of the loop for many years so had some work to get back to regular status. In the last 3 days, something crazy happened. The sand built up, the swell went almost opposite of its normal direction, and to top it off the water even got warmer. Pretty much means I don't have to worry about dodging ice coming out of the river. Lolz. Anyway, this screamer of a left started popping up and had it to myself for 2 days, until this weekend and the people from the city social media'd the sh!t out of it. This morning it was too big for it. Sloppy sets with weird side wash and swirling wind. But city folk are city folk and they threw themselves out there all over the place. Kinda fun to watch the regular sacrifices of boards and bodies. I thought once the swell backed off a little and the wind chilled out in the evening things would get good. An hour before sundown I checked in it all came together. Just 3 beginner dudes out there and they looked pretty done. Jumped off the jetty for just 2 duck dives and I was at the top of the peak and 3 mins later a nice set came through. Easy powerful drop to fade, to top turn, to fade, to full speed runer, and a top turn to end it. Rode in and did the run around on the jetty again and hit repeat for an hour. Glassy good fun for the last 30 mins as I had it all to myself. One to remember! Gotta say it was a good day!
 

manbearpig

Duke status
May 11, 2009
29,772
10,245
113
in the bathroom
such a good redemption session today. Chest high wedges. Freezing but I got in a rhythm right away keeping me warm. I haven’t surfed in months due to lack of motivation and previous sessions were terrible. I had never been so unmotivated. Little 5’7 round pin twin went so good. The stoke is back.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,321
113
Oceanside, CA
Had a blast on the Annihilator today in small and soft-ish, but clean waves. First session felt incredibly awkward
and foreign to me, but started getting the hang of it today and got quite a few pretty good (for this kook) noserides
for a good distance. Pretty killer feeling on several!
 

doc_flavonoid

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 27, 2019
1,740
3,199
113
same bar again today where we 000'd kento yesterday (which begs the question, can a few locs even 000 a tranny? isnt that when its time for said tranny to drift off? which to his credit he did but still have to ask for a friend

that nub of sand held up for hours. the rare ones wedged into a bowl that drained the bar. it did turn in to a friends and family session, which is all good but... we still have wave count to consider so, it brings us to

today where nobody wanted it(still not sure what the 20+ sheep were doing a bit north. mustve of looked sick from in front or something, but actual waves ridden? ha. well they did seem to be staying in one spot which is more than i can say for my poor decision)

oh yeah today, fricking treadmill today, high tide pushing it right onto the shelf. short interval cross swell and local wind. youd see random cylinders spitting their guts out 10ft off the sand but it was a paddle your ass off and hope to drift into one game of preparation meets opportunity without the opportunity part.

you had a chance if you didnt take the bait a try to get the deep ones. the very definition of carrot peak. get lured and youre gone. might as well tuck tail to the beach and walk back. paddling it you aint.

still gave it a 90 min exercise sess of non stop paddling. found a couple rollin to kegger but was more concerned about breaking another board in shore pound than anything else. (fuking covid shortage) took a bit to hit the daily dale 3 mark. after that wasted a couple in the bonus rounds by imitating rocky the flying sqirrel before dog dooring it clear of disaster and stepping onto wet sand board and ligaments intact. omfg thanks and thats enough of that.
 

ZZ Soft Top

Nep status
Sep 22, 2013
732
594
93
Manta Sonica
After a week of stormy, windy BS, yesterday (Saturday) morning was a good time. Peaky and fast beach breakers that had refreshingly good shape. Was able to get some fun ones to put little turns and wacks on. Two guys 50 yards south of me had it dialed and were pulling into little cover-ups and carving them up. Fun to watch. This morning, conditions were still good but swell was way down with decent groveler waves, which was fine, b/c I was kinda sore and tired from the day before.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,903
113
The Bar
same bar again today where we 000'd kento yesterday (which begs the question, can a few locs even 000 a tranny? isnt that when its time for said tranny to drift off? which to his credit he did but still have to ask for a friend
:roflmao:

Wait, which one were you?

That peak got more crowded than the old Kentoland at a day beyond its worst. Been surfing empty sessions for so many years, that mini-Lowers crowd started getting me twitchy/claustrophobic. Funny because after last few sessions when it was relatively heavy, I was almost begging the gods for a couple other people in the lineup. Savage karmic justice.

Although I have to say the tranny talk loses its luster a bit when it gets bigger than 5', no one else is out. *Disclaimer - this is not to say I want much bigger than 8' myself and am not claiming hellman-status in the slightest.
 
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Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,426
969
113
same bar again today where we 000'd kento yesterday (which begs the question, can a few locs even 000 a tranny? isnt that when its time for said tranny to drift off? which to his credit he did but still have to ask for a friend

that nub of sand held up for hours. the rare ones wedged into a bowl that drained the bar. it did turn in to a friends and family session, which is all good but... we still have wave count to consider so, it brings us to

today where nobody wanted it(still not sure what the 20+ sheep were doing a bit north. mustve of looked sick from in front or something, but actual waves ridden? ha. well they did seem to be staying in one spot which is more than i can say for my poor decision)

oh yeah today, fricking treadmill today, high tide pushing it right onto the shelf. short interval cross swell and local wind. youd see random cylinders spitting their guts out 10ft off the sand but it was a paddle your ass off and hope to drift into one game of preparation meets opportunity without the opportunity part.

you had a chance if you didnt take the bait a try to get the deep ones. the very definition of carrot peak. get lured and youre gone. might as well tuck tail to the beach and walk back. paddling it you aint.

still gave it a 90 min exercise sess of non stop paddling. found a couple rollin to kegger but was more concerned about breaking another board in shore pound than anything else. (fuking covid shortage) took a bit to hit the daily dale 3 mark. after that wasted a couple in the bonus rounds by imitating rocky the flying sqirrel before dog dooring it clear of disaster and stepping onto wet sand board and ligaments intact. omfg thanks and thats enough of that.
Wait, are you also a North Coast guy? I thought you were an SFer.

I too surfed a more learning zone spot today, as it was bigger than anywhere else. Some nutsacks got in my way due to their low skill level. I did not bark at them. Some idiot ditched his board instead of duckdiving a chest high, powerless crumbler. I did not tell him to give his balls a tug and hold on to it next time. Some kids were in a pack. They did not try to give me any sh!t. It was a mellow day, except that the kelp was so thick on the inside that it was actually difficult to surf through it. I should have surfed leashless, except the kook factor at the spot worried me some.
 

Tomay

OTF status
Feb 2, 2010
160
330
63
Surfed a well known point break this morning quickly while the little one had a nap and got minded. Got four waves, two good long ones. Should have pulled in on the last wave but it would have meant most likely running someone over, then couldnt get back around the section. First nice one was 370m according to the watch and stood up for a few nice cutties. Wish I had more than 45 minutes.
 

20W-50 and blood

Duke status
Feb 4, 2004
24,949
4,032
113
SOCAL
Visit site
missed out on todays water time due to waking up at hte chica's pad nice and early...to walk out and groggily wonder why my truck door unlocked so easluy...to see the steering colun ocver on the floorbaord....the glovebox hanging open...a pair of shoes gone...and he! look at that ratfuct ignition switch! hey look! a cigarette butt! hey look! a ratchet with a ground down extension that obviously was trying to fit into my ignition switch! whaddaya know! good fuggin monday morning to you! lesson to leanr folks...hug your local crackheads when they ONLY try and break into your truck shell .....as opposed to the gifriend's nieghborhood crackheads who try and jack your entire ride.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
I'm interested in how y'all handle the latest breed of groms. I've seen them burning good guys and they seem to show up in packs dropped off by their mother.
I know the rules, but this spot needs to be named. We could do an AB3 style cancel culture on the groms.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,922
3,034
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
took the longboard down to the point for its first spin in 2021 yesterday, got a bunch of fun waves on a glassy weird light and clouds kind of afternoon. counting down the days until my mystery Kenson bday board arrives. Hope I can still paddle when I get it, my shoulder was waking me up with shooting pain all night.
 

PRCD

Tom Curren status
Feb 25, 2020
12,514
8,551
113
I know the rules, but this spot needs to be named. We could do an AB3 style cancel culture on the groms.
I sent a PM.

Surfed yesterday morning with a high-school surf PE class and they were good groms. Night-and-day difference from the previous time. Parenting makes a huge difference.
 

manbearpig

Duke status
May 11, 2009
29,772
10,245
113
in the bathroom
Post blizzard report as I warm up in my truck eating cold pizza. Hour and a half of fun head-well overhead lefts at my local. Cold getting pelted by freezing rain and snow and about 15” of snow on beach. I guess this is what one has to do to surf alone these days. Good surf until tide got too low. 6’1 Robert’s g step up for the win.
 

ZZ Soft Top

Nep status
Sep 22, 2013
732
594
93
Manta Sonica
Post blizzard report as I warm up in my truck eating cold pizza. Hour and a half of fun head-well overhead lefts at my local. Cold getting pelted by freezing rain and snow and about 15” of snow on beach. I guess this is what one has to do to surf alone these days. Good surf until tide got too low. 6’1 Robert’s g step up for the win.
Where are you? Don't have to name the spot (obviously), just curious which general area of the world.