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pretty damn walled here. a few hail mary corners. even the luckiest rippers weren't getting anything but closeouts. or way out on the shoulder mush lines. saw some SOB guy get the miracle double barrel of a lifetime today during lunch. it wasn't makeable by a human...noone on the tour could have made it...pure miraclulou luck, not skill got him (or coul getanyoeeee) through it. first barrel wasn't open, wasn't makeable....somehow came through it....te second was even more ridiculous of a lcoseout/wall.....then saw him come out of a gurging "end ection" that WASN"T open. never seen anything like it on video, let alone in my years on thsi stretch of coast. didn't even look like a barrel or makeable wave in any way shape or form. typeof barrel even THE goat would brag about.i havent surfed since new years eve
Come home from the desert with the promise of swell and its all closed out in my hood for a week! working so I cant drive to NOC for sessions either. Hopefully the next couple days with dropping swell and a fat tide with help with the corners.
Good to hear a real report from the ground. I saw a bunch of perfect barrel pics from there on IG and thought "those must be brief lies in time, there's no way those sandbars are actually holding this swell."pretty damn walled here. a few hail mary corners. even the luckiest rippers weren't getting anything but closeouts. or way out on the shoulder mush lines. saw some SOB guy get the miracle double barrel of a lifetime today during lunch. it wasn't makeable by a human...noone on the tour could have made it...pure miraclulou luck, not skill got him (or coul getanyoeeee) through it. first barrel wasn't open, wasn't makeable....somehow came through it....te second was even more ridiculous of a lcoseout/wall.....then saw him come out of a gurging "end ection" that WASN"T open. never seen anything like it on video, let alone in my years on thsi stretch of coast. didn't even look like a barrel or makeable wave in any way shape or form. typeof barrel even THE goat would brag about.
Wasn't really any taller than the other day... Just a few "bigger" sets.Today I'll believe the DOH+ claims, even at Crowdiff. I pulled my 8'0" out of the rafters and went hunting at a different outer reef, also in the DOH+ category. Lot of water moving today and some sick lumps to paddle into.
Once surfing my "MP" 6'10" single dumpy shallow (less then foot deep) beachbreak waist high my beak nose hit me under chin "upper cut" and knocked me out. I woke under water and panicked and stood up for breath and had huge bump under chinGot my first surfing related concussion (where it was pretty obvious) yesterday evening. Maybe shoulder high plus, but the tide was just rebounding from a -1.something so it was still pretty low and the mostly closeout rights were 50% sand. I was packing some closeout barrels on my backhand and then just remember little bits of info for the next hour or so. I sort of recall asking a local 16 year old grom who I see out a lot if he saw what happened when I was paddling back out dazed, which he didn't, but I think he thought I better go in.
I have memory fragments of the walk home and not being able to see straight (in addition to stars and halos around lights), being nauseous and having really bad tinnitus. My wife called the nearby urgent care and they didn't think I had to come in after she went through their checklist.
Once I started feeling more normal (about two hours later)I went down to check my board and there is a 4-5" pretty deep pressure ding about a foot down from the nose, deck side. I assume that's what impacted my head, since this morning I have more localized pain (to the touch) about three inches in from my right ear. I still have a terrible overall headache. I'm selfishly happy the surf took a little breather this a.m.
ha same swell hit here yesterday. doh+ and packed a wollop. ultra clean painfully slow got 3 gems in 2 hrs. and came in. wasnt tried, just tried of sitting and parsing grey on grey. hardest part- first 40ft in and last 40 out was 8 ft and terrifying.new 20 second swell showed up and I didn't think was going to be an issue.. Saw some fun tweeners and paddled out only to play cat and mouse with the tweeners inside and the psychopathic drugged out new swell that came in this morning. Holy carp it was only a foot or two overhead but it unlesashed.
Maybe only caught three waves all session and none were good. duck dove about 5,000 waves though and my arms are shot
Sounds like my surf yesterday afternoon. OBSF - only 1 wave in 1.5h. Seemed like I was never in the right place and the lip was pitching really fastha same swell hit here yesterday. doh+ and packed a wollop. ultra clean painfully slow got 3 gems in 2 hrs. and came in. wasnt tried, just tried of sitting and parsing grey on grey. hardest part- first 40ft in and last 40 out was 8 ft and terrifying.