***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,198
12,018
113
The Bar
thats a lot of locals. always trips me out when guys paddle out into that. too many heads. not enough waves. why add to the fuckery?

surfed a localized reef with 3 others couple days ago. had it on lockdown. every wave spoken for. of course that didnt stop 6 clowns from paddling out expecting what? a break in the rotation?

better to sit and wait for someone to get out or better yet just go away than buoy in the channel with puppy dog eyes
Had the opposite situation yesterday. Plenty of waves, clean, offshore, and deserted. Although DOH+ cleanup sets breaking way out the back and washing out the lineup might have had something to do with the lack of people and that was after swell had dropped. And shark attack a few weeks ago; kind of a deterrent to paddling out with hardly a soul around. Grey suit localism. Kicking myself even though functioning quiver is down to a couple HPSBs and it would have probably been a bad idea anyways.

I feel dirty and hate myself even though it was probably the right decision. :cautious:
 

bluengreen

Nep status
Oct 22, 2018
771
2,042
93
SF x Encinitas
thats a lot of locals. always trips me out when guys paddle out into that. too many heads. not enough waves. why add to the fuckery?

better to sit and wait for someone to get out or better yet just go away than buoy in the channel with puppy dog eyes
This is what I tell myself, but I tend to get a good one when I'm out there. You know the wave, Doc. Pretty often the guy in position gets A) Pitched on takeoff, B) Clamped by the initial barrel section, or C) Backs out because it's throwing too hard. On the right day, that leaves us jackals 200 yards of peeling left to scrap for.
 
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Senor Sopa

Nep status
Mar 11, 2015
859
1,182
93
Ponto
Had the opposite situation yesterday. Plenty of waves, clean, offshore, and deserted. Although DOH+ cleanup sets breaking way out the back and washing out the lineup might have had something to do with the lack of people and that was after swell had dropped. And shark attack a few weeks ago; kind of a deterrent to paddling out with hardly a soul around. Grey suit localism. Kicking myself even though functioning quiver is down to a couple HPSBs and it would have probably been a bad idea anyways.

I feel dirty and hate myself even though it was probably the right decision. :cautious:
I call this FTG, fail to go out. Happens all too often for me, usually based on (weak sauce) * (crowd) fun factor

This morning, went to the famous spot in town, the one the erBB so disparages. Yep, lots of big dudes on big boards. Compared to yesterday, and in reality, it was pretty flat. Inconsistent, and backing off. Even worse luck today for wave count, no wipeouts either for excitment. Saw some guys I know. Saw some others that I've seen at this spot for decades, they weren't catching anything either. Makes one feel slightly better. My legs suck, wobbles at top of stairs. Those stairs have seen better days, the cement looks worse for wear and tear.
 

doc_flavonoid

Nep status
Dec 27, 2019
873
1,644
93
Had the opposite situation yesterday. Plenty of waves, clean, offshore, and deserted. Although DOH+ cleanup sets breaking way out the back and washing out the lineup might have had something to do with the lack of people and that was after swell had dropped. And shark attack a few weeks ago; kind of a deterrent to paddling out with hardly a soul around. Grey suit localism. Kicking myself even though functioning quiver is down to a couple HPSBs and it would have probably been a bad idea anyways.

I feel dirty and hate myself even though it was probably the right decision. :cautious:
dale didnt knock out 14,610 consecutive days by hitting up the same spot everytime.

you made the right call btw. its never empty for lack of interest ability or enthusiasm
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,198
12,018
113
The Bar
dale didnt knock out 14,610 consecutive days by hitting up the same spot everytime.

you made the right call btw. its never empty for lack of interest ability or enthusiasm
Well put and I know I should have checked other spots to the north. I looked at the one spot that has a cam and it was crowded and crappy. But otherwise... oh well. Another time.

Funny that I surfed similar days last season (granted on a 6'7" [still being repaired]) but without that recent attack in back of my mind. Different perspective - guess I am still a little gunshy.
 
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MathDebater

Billy Hamilton status
Apr 13, 2016
1,691
3,552
113
SD
Chatting the lot, dude tells me about a certain San Diego jetty and how localized it is, not SMJ, the other side. The story was bascially paddle out, get sent in under 5 minutes. Is this true? Never been there, I had no idea.
My buddy had this experience a few years ago
 
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Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
1,796
1,010
113
Regional Vic, Australia
My re-learn to surf program continues. Sunday was a day of wheels. Normal skateboard in morning at the town skatepark, not because it helps surfing, but because I like it and it gives my arms a rest from paddling. Then Sunday arvo group surf skate lesson with the instructor at the kiddies skatepark which consists of a patch of concrete, metal funbox and basketball hoop. With such a nice skatepark in town, the skateboarders aren't interested in using it. There were about half a dozen of us.

I brought my Nana reverse kingpin surfskate and it was perfectly capable of doing the warm up exercises done in laps. It does take a bit more effort than the very turny Smoothstar with the swivel truck which has been supplied for my lessons with the instructor. After 10 minutes I was worried that I was not going to be able to last the full 2hr lesson and asked to borrow a Smoothstar.

As with my previous lessons we were taught arm and body movements with cues to remember them. These are the positions we are meant to use in certain surfing situations. The cues have names and the instructor shouted them out to help us remember the movement. I suppose it would act as a balance trainer to a certain extent, but I see it as more like a movement rehearsal tool.

Towards the end of the session the instructor had us doing some of the moves carving the quarter pipe. I am not sure how much the transition adds to the rehearsal, but it was fun. I have a tendency to prefer solo sessions in the sea or skatepark and just zone out. This lesson showed me that group sessions can actually be fun and add an element of motivation. I felt stocked at the end of the experience and plan to do more. I think they run every two weeks. I would imagine it is a bit like doing an aerobics class. Certainly exhausting. My glutes and quads still feeling it. A couple of surfs yesterday exacerbated that, so complete rest today.

I just so happens that the instructor stokes Smoothstar's and had one in the ideal size for me. That evening I purchased it and he took this pic of me as the happy owner. Its the 32" size. He sells them at a discount price, but considering the spontaneity of the transaction and that I already have a surfskate, does this count as a YOLO?

NewSmoothstar.JPGSmoothStar.JPG

And an entirely forgettable clip from yesterday morning. I'm going right for a change and this one shows my new pop up, followed by going through some of the arm motions I have been shown and a fall off. Rome wasn't built in a day.

 

paunch23

Billy Hamilton status
So a few months ago I was gonna write about a shitty session I had, and that I met a guy from Hawaii. I didn't cuz I figured: "well who gives a sht I met a guy from Hawaii, right?", although to me is kinda amazing because, I know the few guys that surf here. So for me meeting a Hawaiian here in Panama , was kinda strange; plus now I got someone i can surf with during weekdays which is kinda cool. Usually I get to the beach and I'm like, "wow that's weird. Another guy in the water."

Anyway, by now I've surfed with this guy a few times and told him I've been to Hawaii a few times. He says he surfs and his kid and blah blah blah... the usual. Really nice guy, positive Hawaiian vibe. So today he mentions his son's name and I was like: "nah nah nah. No way!! Seriously?" Are you Tamayo's dad??? As it happens, back in 2014 my kids took lessons with him on a trip to Oahu. Small world, huh?. I was kinda pumped the whole session, even though it was small, but good shape and pretty fun. Did like a 1 inch lil' air and some nice cutbacks...
:waving:
 
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Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,345
1,393
113
Oceanside, CA
So a few months ago I was gonna write about a shitty session I had, and that I met a guy from Hawaii. I didn't cuz I figured: "well who gives a sht I met a guy from Hawaii, right?", although to me is kinda amazing because, I know the few guys that surf here. So for me meeting a Hawaiian that I can surf with during weekdays is kinda cool. I get to the beach and I'm like, "wow that's weird. Another guy in the water."

Anyway, by now I've surfed with this guy a few times and told him I've been to Hawaii a few times. He says he surfs and his kid and blah blah blah... the usual. Really nice guy, positive Hawaiian vibe. So today he mentions his son's name and I was like: "nah nah nah. No way!! Seriously?" Are you Tamayo's dad??? As it happens, back in 2014 my kids took lessons with him on a trip to Oahu. Small world, huh?. I was kinda pumped the whole session, even though it was small, but good shape and pretty fun. Did like a 1 inch lil' air and some nice cutbacks...
:waving:
Epic, Paunch. Have a story for you (prob meant for the travel forum, but fuggit).
Girlfriend (now wife of 20 yrs) and I travelled
from Panama City by bus, up to west coast, then to Bocas, then back to west coast/David.
one of the long ass bus trips, we decided we were going to go to Isla Boca Brava (assume you know that’s near Boca Chica). Didn’t know the bus would be leaving us, in the middle of the night, on a deserted stretch of highway with no one in sight. Anyway, guy pulls up in a truck after 10 min of panic at about 1am and asks if we need help. Ends up being the Mayor of the town, drives us to David to a decent hotel, and the next day we go back to La Isla for an insane couple of days including New Years Eve with a bunch of foreign traveler. An experience I’ll never forget with great people in a beautiful country. I cant Wait to return.
 

MathDebater

Billy Hamilton status
Apr 13, 2016
1,691
3,552
113
SD
My re-learn to surf program continues. Sunday was a day of wheels. Normal skateboard in morning at the town skatepark, not because it helps surfing, but because I like it and it gives my arms a rest from paddling. Then Sunday arvo group surf skate lesson with the instructor at the kiddies skatepark which consists of a patch of concrete, metal funbox and basketball hoop. With such a nice skatepark in town, the skateboarders aren't interested in using it. There were about half a dozen of us.

I brought my Nana reverse kingpin surfskate and it was perfectly capable of doing the warm up exercises done in laps. It does take a bit more effort than the very turny Smoothstar with the swivel truck which has been supplied for my lessons with the instructor. After 10 minutes I was worried that I was not going to be able to last the full 2hr lesson and asked to borrow a Smoothstar.

As with my previous lessons we were taught arm and body movements with cues to remember them. These are the positions we are meant to use in certain surfing situations. The cues have names and the instructor shouted them out to help us remember the movement. I suppose it would act as a balance trainer to a certain extent, but I see it as more like a movement rehearsal tool.

Towards the end of the session the instructor had us doing some of the moves carving the quarter pipe. I am not sure how much the transition adds to the rehearsal, but it was fun. I have a tendency to prefer solo sessions in the sea or skatepark and just zone out. This lesson showed me that group sessions can actually be fun and add an element of motivation. I felt stocked at the end of the experience and plan to do more. I think they run every two weeks. I would imagine it is a bit like doing an aerobics class. Certainly exhausting. My glutes and quads still feeling it. A couple of surfs yesterday exacerbated that, so complete rest today.

I just so happens that the instructor stokes Smoothstar's and had one in the ideal size for me. That evening I purchased it and he took this pic of me as the happy owner. Its the 32" size. He sells them at a discount price, but considering the spontaneity of the transaction and that I already have a surfskate, does this count as a YOLO?

View attachment 118366View attachment 118367

And an entirely forgettable clip from yesterday morning. I'm going right for a change and this one shows my new pop up, followed by going through some of the arm motions I have been shown and a fall off. Rome wasn't built in a day.

For what it’s worth I can see an improvement already! Stock is high!
 
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Mr J

Michael Peterson status
Aug 18, 2003
1,796
1,010
113
Regional Vic, Australia
For what it’s worth I can see an improvement already! Stock is high!
thanks for the encouragement. I will be my own critic on that wave. I was experiencing a certain amount of confusion to force the arm movement and doing half turns instead of completing them. My arms were also too low except for the attempt at the end where I fell off on :D At least it is breaking old habits.

My instructor has been encouraging me to do bigger arced more complete turns. This is probably a better example of my lessons. I could have gone a bit more vertical in the cruisy roller coaster, but at least it is an attempt in the middle of the wave - I tended to only try off the lips on the last closeout section because if I blew it just after takeoff I would lose the wave. In the past some off the lips worked out much better than others and I never knew why, probably because I accidentally got the arm positions right.

 

Woke AF

Kelly Slater status
Jul 29, 2009
8,771
3,324
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
A lot of swell still in the water, but with the high tide the surf was mostly breaking on the inner bar. Guys were sitting outback with big boards but I wanted to try my new NVS T Knox fins. Put them in my 6'3 RPtwin.

The paddle-out was an exercise in patience, get to the inner bar and just get worked until it is tired of you and lets you pass. Once past the current sucks you right out. Difficult crossed up waves and some sucking and throwing in the mix. No crowd.

Well overhead 1st wave tried to drive off the bottom but the board felt glitchy in the bottom turn. Weird, foot position? A few soft peaks the board felt springy and light. A big backside wave with a standing up wall, from behind the peak, set the rail in the face board felt solid and locked in and went like a rocket. The wave wedged at the end, I tried to hit it but the wave got too funky. The speed and control on that left was very confidence-inducing. Took a frontside wave with a nice wall. Nice bottom turn and 3 whacks to the closeout. Greedy and went too far and got stuck on the inside, go in.

So far I can see how some people might not like the fins. Sensitive and I am not sure if you can really drive off of them like a typical fin. They have a ton of forward projection and speed and like a powerful wave. So far they work but they definitely need more testing.
 

CutnSnip

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2018
3,521
3,332
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Super fun this a.m. in SLA. GX AM2 Combo with consistent head high+ waves coming through on the reg. Saw a few peeps make some nice little choobs but all i got were closeouts and one little shampoo - not even sure if it qualified as a head dip but followed it with a big (for me) fins free wallet dropper i shouldve never been able to keep my feet on, recovered and got another nice little floater on the inside closeout section. Felt like a really good combo in my head. lol

Water didnt seem to dirty, slight offshores and another perfect fall morning here. Heading back tomorrow for more albeit probably way smaller.
 

Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
228
524
93
Monday: drove back up to the bay from southern CA. What a day to drive the coastline and check a bunch of rarely-breaking spots. Saw one little protected reef corner that I didn't even realize was a wave; saw a little crowd of beginners at another protected spot that I've never actually seen break -- it was kinda trippy watching people catch clean little waist high peelers while it was gigantic everywhere else. Stopped by a point break just as it was cleaning up rapidly and the tide was lowering just enough. Little too much water, but it got really, really good. Sections were really connecting. Saw chloe andino in the 7-11 after.
 

Senor Sopa

Nep status
Mar 11, 2015
859
1,182
93
Ponto
Surf is still crackin. Went for a nooner at the Reef. Big enough that I wanted to make sure I timed my paddle good and avoid endless crushings. It's like sailing, you point in one direction, knowing you are actually going a different direction. Once past the shorie, current grabbed me and took me to the channel. Fark, it's still a long paddle. Crowd ranged from 1 to 10 people, with the big sets well taller than me with my hands over my head. Some really long period stuff rolling through. Just rolling through and not breaking.

Water was brown, the color of an amber ale. Good current and lots of sand on the outside boils, that will change. The biggest one was when I had the lineup solo, SWEET. Tide was kinda high, putting a damper on shredability, high speed down the line aint so bad. Sure is nice to catch a wave big enough for you to think about what you want to do, and do old-school moves like fade/stall/setup.

Overall rating: Stocker session

Funny chit: One wave gave me time to wait and setup for the top turn. Hah, turned into bog and sink. Paddling back out, I'm thinking, next time, just go hit the lip, why wait? Outside, young dude (looks like a dirty gudang with huge teeth) gave me some grief about falling. Next wave, some other guy does same top turn to bog and falls in exact same spot. We laughed. Next wave, gudang clone does the same turn and bog move. Hah, his wipe made some crazy leash swatting board snap sound on his biff.

Good chit: I channeld Mr J. on a few. I focused on really getting low and pushing off on the bottom turns. Thinking about sinking that rail, instead of merely leaning over and providing no additional energy. Rewarded with much more speed and tighter turn radius. I think my boar is finally getting broken in.

Cool chit: Saw this guy leaving the lineup when I pulled up. He looks stocked. No, kid isn't his. Pretty cool to have a crutch caddy!!!
1635381324592.png
 
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doc_flavonoid

Nep status
Dec 27, 2019
873
1,644
93
Surf is still crackin. Went for a nooner at the Reef. Big enough that I wanted to make sure I timed my paddle good and avoid endless crushings. It's like sailing, you point in one direction, knowing you are actually going a different direction. Once past the shorie, current grabbed me and took me to the channel. Fark, it's still a long paddle. Crowd ranged from 1 to 10 people, with the big sets well taller than me with my hands over my head. Some really long period stuff rolling through. Just rolling through and not breaking.

Water was brown, the color of an amber ale. Good current and lots of sand on the outside boils, that will change. The biggest one was when I had the lineup solo, SWEET. Tide was kinda high, putting a damper on shredability, high speed down the line aint so bad. Sure is nice to catch a wave big enough for you to think about what you want to do, and do old-school moves like fade/stall/setup.

Overall rating: Stocker session

Funny chit: One wave gave me time to wait and setup for the top turn. Hah, turned into bog and sink. Paddling back out, I'm thinking, next time, just go hit the lip, why wait? Outside, young dude (looks like a dirty gudang with huge teeth) gave me some grief about falling. Next wave, some other guy does same top turn to bog and falls in exact same spot. We laughed. Next wave, gudang clone does the same turn and bog move. Hah, his wipe made some crazy leash swatting board snap sound on his biff.

Cool chit: Saw this guy leaving the lineup when I pulled up. He looks stocked. No, kid isn't his. Pretty cool to have a crutch caddy!!!
View attachment 118490
trippin on the one leg guy. wondering how the fck he does it. any of it. props. legend

mine was an exercise in exercise. 1/2 hr paddle out felt like elder abuse. once out the back an i mean waaay out the back. frickn huge playing field. spen another 1/2 trying to make rhyme or reason of the random nature of the universe when it comes to play with 3 swells med high tide and a few fickle ripbowls.

probably dbl over. maybe 15' on the sets. most would roll under an detonate mid bar. others would peak throw shoulder. the good ones walled in seemingly unmakeable but somehow makeable sections.

dont go too far. dont even take a whiff of the first one. definitely skip that last turn in favor of the ol norcal kick out and book ur ass toward the horizon.

one other taker makes for not much to triangulate off of 300yds offshore. watched him from the back tempt fate for one last turn. once a shortboarder always a shortboarder. hoped he was done as the horizon filled up. i mean i knew he was done for, but got a glimpse of him headedback for more before i spun and took one in.

was stocked to see him standing on the beach when i made it in. better than guilt trippin about leaving him out there by himself.