Mushy closeouts early this morning. NSSA contest at the one surfable spot. My two surfs this week were in combo swells of low expectations. I always have my best surfs those days.
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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Took the boat out today, I knew a lot of people would do the same thing with the “La Bomba” swell (thanks Surfline), but it was a zoo. So many people who could barely go down the line consistently. Fortunately for the the angle was too steep to do much expect the for the occasional set. Wind was on too so I was pretty unmotivated, and just went with the least crowded peak. As the tide went down I found a good rhythm on my banjo, getting a bunch of little turns in and having more fun than expected. I had a close call with a seal That was exciting. Seaweed was a problem as huge patches floated through the line up, screwing up a few good looking waves for me. But all in all no complaints.
there's no surf from a boat around here sir.
you must be from somewhere else
you must be from somewhere else
back in da bay. didn't have time to go anywhere that was actually picking up the S, not sure I would have wanted to, quick evening surf at OB. damn that place really doesn't do anything with souths. just some inside shoredump while every 15 mins a set would sweep on by, just barely grazing a bar outside as it headed up the beach. but, man, just paddling feels amazing when you need to, and I did.
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Gulf coast report. Glassy 3- ft. Peelers yesterday, perfect day for me since it’s been over 2 years since a head dip.
total kook, at least the open beach breaks were working.
total kook, at least the open beach breaks were working.
quick sesh on the phewz. junky waves in clean conditions with a little inside bar throwing a stand up right
just whip out the booties with ur 3/2 short arm full
Fun little waves this morning, water is colder again. Very peaky with the wind swell but most just tapered off. Rode the manta because I'm still in the honeymoon and was feel lazy.
Small n glassy this morning with medium swell on the rise.
After a few sessions farting around with quad fins in the SMTH Mini Demon i went back to thruster (Ando fins) and had a really fun session. Surfed the left until it got flooded and then paddled over to the right which was kind of a novelty rip bowl with boils to dodge and backwash to navigate. Despite all that it was super fun and it felt so good to go right again. Board was feeling spicy and i got the tail free on a few snaps.
After a few sessions farting around with quad fins in the SMTH Mini Demon i went back to thruster (Ando fins) and had a really fun session. Surfed the left until it got flooded and then paddled over to the right which was kind of a novelty rip bowl with boils to dodge and backwash to navigate. Despite all that it was super fun and it felt so good to go right again. Board was feeling spicy and i got the tail free on a few snaps.
Huh, I figured that boar was just a quad fish when I saw it
maybe I’m thinking of JTs shape
Had nice conditions earlier in the week. Shoulder high sets on a great bank that I mentioned in my previous post. I picked up a Sharpeye Modern 2 for cheap recently, at 5'10 the idea was to give a bit more rail line to lay into and volume for easy paddling. Unfortunately, it didn't work for me at all. I kept getting stuck at the top of the wave, it completely lacked drive and flow. Such a shame because the conditions would have been perfect for the MR, Mini Pip or Banks to lay into some nice carves. I'm going to sell the Sharpeye, I've picked up enough boards recently and need to make some space for a new good wave thruster at some point and hopefully an Album Plasmic later in the year. Still waiting on the MOTE.
small softies on the phewz. rode as a truster. on the right wave it could work but I'm going back to quad.
damn it's gonna be warm today
damn it's gonna be warm today
Surfed my old north county local with my buddy who moved away a few years back. Forgot how fun that wave can be even on a small swell. Water felt even colder today.
I am in 805 county but listen to buoys frequently and OB side buoy reported 62 h20 temp.
Today mission beach showed 62 as well
I would not call 60z cold unless my local waters tropical and I surfed in trunks
Much needed solo sesh on a warm sunny afternoon. The spots I checked were pretty marginal, but this little wedge over a shallow rock shelf was empty... I'll take it! 10 waist high quick rights in 30min on the 5'9 Gremlin swallowtail with MR +training wheel. Fun little drops. the couple I got in early enough, pulled in for a quick cover up; the rest just a late drop & fs slash. Hot day, clear water, just the one kook out (me). Man, I needed that after a brutal week. Water definitely felt like it dropped from a couple weeks ago, but I was fine in my new fave 2mil full.
edit: I've always been an arch guy, but I'm starting to get used to / like the flat corduroy pad on this boar. I think it's a modom or some other hipster logo I don't recognize.
edit: I've always been an arch guy, but I'm starting to get used to / like the flat corduroy pad on this boar. I think it's a modom or some other hipster logo I don't recognize.
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Super calm today. The sun poked out after the foggy morning. Water warmed up quite a bit. Must be near 50F now. Solo sesh at the go to. The novelty right has apparently morphed into a shreddy bowl that works on the high tide. There were some fun lefts too but I mostly stuck to the rights. So nice to surf frontside again finally. Rode the SMTH Mini Demon. Board felt great although I probably could have ridden a shortboard.
Yesterday was frustrating. Couldn’t get in position for the very short peaky waves that would mostly die immediately if I could
get one. Today went to a different stretch of
beach and got 6-8 fun, peaky/wedging waves
by myself right off the bat. Most would close
out on the Uber shallow negative low tide bar,
but a few ran and got a couple hopeless
tune visions on the Shadow. Will take
get one. Today went to a different stretch of
beach and got 6-8 fun, peaky/wedging waves
by myself right off the bat. Most would close
out on the Uber shallow negative low tide bar,
but a few ran and got a couple hopeless
tune visions on the Shadow. Will take