Needed badly to get in the water as have been nursing several nagging minor injuries over last couple weeks. Air in low 40s, water in low 50s, offshore winds, sounds like a good morning to break in that new 5/4 hooded Hyperfreak. Toasty suit. Felt alien to not have an ice cream headache.
Waves were SH/HH with OH sets but nasty rips everywhere with dropping tide. Did a lot of paddling to stay in one place and a lot of paddling to only stay in one place if you know what I mean. First wave, set up a nice barrel right off the bat. Collapsed as it went down the line though, enough to accordion the top of my head and send me into the flats, not a dignified exit at all but had a nice view for a while. Waves were really tricky to get into with current yanking you all over the place. As tide dropped, went from hollow to a bit burgery but still some fun drops and lazy turns but got a few good slashes in throughout the day. Even when it wasn't as good as tide bottomed out, still really fun and it was hard to get out of the water.
Eventually got a flurry of waves and rode last one in most of the way to the sand. Was kind of a weak right with a little reentry off the closeout and in but good enough. Solid 3.5 hour session and could have stayed out a lot longer. But yeah was me and wife's anniversary today and had to get moving as had a late start this morning. Chopped some wood for a nice fire when I got back, took family out to the best steakhouse in town and am enjoying a nice port right now before it starts raining for next 10 days or so.
Hey, gbg sorry it's been lackluster down there. Been fun waves up here and good conditions but nowhere near as good as last year; almost every session last winter was solid OH to sub-DOH (or much, much bigger which I did not want) and good/evil. Come up one of these days and we'll get some waves and hit up some breweries/wineries.