***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,990
22,531
113
PNW
a quicky at the kelp reef yesterday. cold and drizzly and a slight bump on it but a few solid sets coming through. wasn't expecting the surf this spot so all i had was my shortboard and 6-10 blackbird. opted for the blackbird. it felt pretty good, maybe better than expected tbh. fun session until 3 randos paddled out together and started hassling for waves at the peak straight away. there was only 3 of us out there, all locals so we burned a couple of them and then told them off and they moved down the line after that.

didn't surf for long, maybe 1.5 hours and then back to packing.

leaving for Baja today. see you all in a month or two.
 

SD_Dan

OTF status
Jan 23, 2019
267
719
93
Unexpectedly fun surf at the the go-to south county beach break this morning. Nicely groomed, post-storm, wind-swell peaks by a stiff offshore wind. Weak waves but beautiful conditions. Also saw some dolphins ripping on the sets….yew
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
a quicky at the kelp reef yesterday. cold and drizzly and a slight bump on it but a few solid sets coming through. wasn't expecting the surf this spot so all i had was my shortboard and 6-10 blackbird. opted for the blackbird. it felt pretty good, maybe better than expected tbh. fun session until 3 randos paddled out together and started hassling for waves at the peak straight away. there was only 3 of us out there, all locals so we burned a couple of them and then told them off and they moved down the line after that.

didn't surf for long, maybe 1.5 hours and then back to packing.

leaving for Baja today. see you all in a month or two.
Vaya con dios, cabrón. What's in your baja quiver this time?
 
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Tarab_ish

Legend (inyourownmind)
Nov 14, 2018
355
848
93
30 min midday surf at the beach. too much tide, ok surface conditions but mixed up and windswelly from the storm front passing by, head high peaks that would sorta hit sandbars and just keep lumbering along. got the daily-dale-minimum three waves and did some lame as hell swoops then went in.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,276
113
San Diego, CA
First surf in almost 2 weeks. Crumbly thigh-waist high runners at reef 3. Nice sunny afternoon. Surfed by myself except for 5 min when a dude paddled through on his way back from the next reef south. Maiden voyage for the ol yeller HD Simster planing hull (PU/poly shaped by Rusty). Great waves for a mini sim. Mostly trimming and racing sections from the front foot gas pedal in the soft waves. Did fit in 3 bside hooks that whipped around easy but still held in with the little center fin. Those Gephart ply fins are beautiful too.7EAA2689-0548-4CFB-962E-D439DB5C3F95.jpeg
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,691
20,903
113
The Bar
Needed badly to get in the water as have been nursing several nagging minor injuries over last couple weeks. Air in low 40s, water in low 50s, offshore winds, sounds like a good morning to break in that new 5/4 hooded Hyperfreak. Toasty suit. Felt alien to not have an ice cream headache.

Waves were SH/HH with OH sets but nasty rips everywhere with dropping tide. Did a lot of paddling to stay in one place and a lot of paddling to only stay in one place if you know what I mean. First wave, set up a nice barrel right off the bat. Collapsed as it went down the line though, enough to accordion the top of my head and send me into the flats, not a dignified exit at all but had a nice view for a while. Waves were really tricky to get into with current yanking you all over the place. As tide dropped, went from hollow to a bit burgery but still some fun drops and lazy turns but got a few good slashes in throughout the day. Even when it wasn't as good as tide bottomed out, still really fun and it was hard to get out of the water.

Eventually got a flurry of waves and rode last one in most of the way to the sand. Was kind of a weak right with a little reentry off the closeout and in but good enough. Solid 3.5 hour session and could have stayed out a lot longer. But yeah was me and wife's anniversary today and had to get moving as had a late start this morning. Chopped some wood for a nice fire when I got back, took family out to the best steakhouse in town and am enjoying a nice port right now before it starts raining for next 10 days or so.

Hey, gbg sorry it's been lackluster down there. Been fun waves up here and good conditions but nowhere near as good as last year; almost every session last winter was solid OH to sub-DOH (or much, much bigger which I did not want) and good/evil. Come up one of these days and we'll get some waves and hit up some breweries/wineries. :cheers:
 

j_mac

Legend (inyourownmind)
Aug 16, 2020
418
1,567
93
Yesterday - packed up the Plasmic and Will's fish wasn't sure what to expect, showed found a nice solid clean beach break. 15 guys at the primary spot, the secondary spot was equally as good though a bit more wait yet no one was there. I had a good hour on the Will's fish to myself, before folks creeped over. They watched me catch too many good waves - damn it! Stayed for another hour before it was too crowded.

I did a second session in the afternoon at low tide hoping the swell would kick in or at least help the existing waves. Swell wasn't quite there yet, good mix of outside waves (if you waited), much more fun on the inside with good size and consistency. Started on the 5' 10" Disorder, it went well still figuring the board out. Swapped out for the 5' 10" Twinsman, it felt much slower paddling, but it got into the steeper waves better handled the inner break with a bit more control and speed. It was good to compare the two.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,584
6,128
113
SD
Mid morning window at the local. I picked an empty peak that occasionally had some waves but they were mostly too lined up to do anything but race and kick out. I did pull into one barrel. It was my first session this season in my 4/3 and damn it felt nice and cozy in the brisk offshores.