***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
23,646
2,919
113
been like 3 weeks of fun sized stuff without too many shitheads close by
today i fell, came up before my board, thin it came up and blasted me in the face
right on the bridge of the nose
hurt like a mofo, instant headache too
felt like it shoulda been bloody, crushed, and permanently disfigured
not even sure what part of the board hit me, but it felt like 20 layers of 6oz over a redwood blank
yet i diod not bleed, it didnt swell up, i look just like i did yesterday
but it still hurts 6 hours later, and i took advil
 

rowjimmytour

Kelly Slater status
Feb 7, 2009
8,612
2,979
113
Rbeach
been like 3 weeks of fun sized stuff without too many shitheads close by
today i fell, came up before my board, thin it came up and blasted me in the face
right on the bridge of the nose
hurt like a mofo, instant headache too
felt like it shoulda been bloody, crushed, and permanently disfigured
not even sure what part of the board hit me, but it felt like 20 layers of 6oz over a redwood blank
yet i diod not bleed, it didnt swell up, i look just like i did yesterday
but it still hurts 6 hours later, and i took advil
From your post looks like you are starting to suffer 20w50 syndrome and need a tall 40oz asap :drowning:
 
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Reactions: sh3 and MathDebater

sdsrfr

Michael Peterson status
Jul 13, 2020
2,832
5,455
113
San Diego
It’s always weird when you surface before the board. I always fear it’ll come up and stab me in the d!ck.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,171
11,971
113
The Bar
It’s always weird when you surface before the board. I always fear it’ll come up and stab me in the d!ck.
One hand in front of the face and one under your junk.

After closeout barrel once, had board fly out of the depths, hit me right in the chin. Drove my teeth through my lip and into the rail of my board. Dinged both board and tooth also 9 stitches in the lip. Concussion to boot. And man, when that numbing medicine (xylocaine?) went right through the wound and down my throat, oh man I was high high high. Even though I went to work after, they sent me home. :roflmao:

Hope you feel better, 000.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
21,669
3,450
113
San Francisco, CA
been like 3 weeks of fun sized stuff without too many shitheads close by
today i fell, came up before my board, thin it came up and blasted me in the face
right on the bridge of the nose
hurt like a mofo, instant headache too
felt like it shoulda been bloody, crushed, and permanently disfigured
not even sure what part of the board hit me, but it felt like 20 layers of 6oz over a redwood blank
yet i diod not bleed, it didnt swell up, i look just like i did yesterday
but it still hurts 6 hours later, and i took advil
Let know how you're doing in 24 hrs. Have had some hard smacks take time to show the bruising.
 

MathDebater

Billy Hamilton status
Apr 13, 2016
1,684
3,532
113
SD
Missed my planned window today but decided to check it anyways. Reefs looked too weak except for the occasional set so I ended up at the beach. The low tide was having it's way with things but occasionally some fun peaks would come through, mostly just racing down the line and hitting the section. There was a decent amount of power for 1-2' waves. The GX was perfect in those small pockety waves. I got a nice sand blast pulling into a tiny barrel on my last wave.
 

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
8,706
10,737
113
PNW
It's been pretty dreary here. Rain, mist, drizzle, fog, you name it. Today it finally cleared up and we had some nice conditions. Surfed the kelp reef on the Plasmic for like 3 hours. The mid tide window had an hour where it was kind of legit, or at least as legit as this wave gets. Long rides with multiple turns. Board felt great w/ Alkali twins.

Thought there might be an evening window but it seemed like the outgoing tide sucked all the life out of it.
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
23,646
2,919
113
One hand in front of the face and one under your junk.

After closeout barrel once, had board fly out of the depths, hit me right in the chin. Drove my teeth through my lip and into the rail of my board. Dinged both board and tooth also 9 stitches in the lip. Concussion to boot. And man, when that numbing medicine (xylocaine?) went right through the wound and down my throat, oh man I was high high high. Even though I went to work after, they sent me home. :roflmao:

Hope you feel better, 000.

yeah it coulda been worse. still hurts 11 hours later, but i didnt lose an eye or a tooth