***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,113
4,743
113
SD
Having a pretty rough weekend but washed it off with a quick soft reef session right at the tide flip with light offshores. I’d say it was glorious fall conditions but the waves were a bit small to justify that kind of praise. I saw a few sets from the lot that seemed fish worthy but manta would’ve been the call. But my banjo still worked great, it was a bit of a crowd but mostly floaters for my first 45 minutes out. I got a bunch of back door the peak to off the tops, ending with a cut back before the channel. Unfortunately a bunch of younger duu’s on logs and wavestorms paddled out and turned it into a sh!t show. Saw some VERY aggro log dogs, some splashing, some shoving. Pretty wild. Never seen that here In smol waves
 

Woke AF

Kelly Slater status
Jul 29, 2009
9,055
3,805
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
A few days ago blah waves crowded but surfed well on my 6'3 twin.
The other day blah waves not crowded caught a lot of waves on the Vaquero.
Surfed today the waves were pumping. Really difficult conditions: off-shore wind, draining tide, a lot of wonky backwash ledgy drops. Only a few waves were ridden, a little crowd, on my 7'2 twin. 1st wave, glide into a sucking out cavern, pull tight to the wall to have it lurch out in front of me. Try to pull out the back to have it suck me down to be pinned to the bottom. More of the same after that. Saw a lot of broken boards today.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,162
5,300
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the NS regular. It was smaller but just as clean as yesterday with a lighter crowd and I brought the 5’10, right tool for the job. There were some double ups and some westies that break out to sea. Surfed a long time. Got a bunch of waves that the big guys on big boars couldn’t get under or were too deep on.

Did yell at an older guy. He paddled for 6 waves to catch one then paddled around us and got a wave in the next set. Gave him an earful.

Funny bit. My friend Keane paddled out. He’s a heavier guy but has gotten in shape lost some weight and is able to catch waves easier. I was tired and kept telling him to go, waiting for a nugget. He paddled back out and tells me you told me to go on 5 waves in a row I love you. Right as he says that the nugget I was waiting for rolls in and I tell him not this one. I whip and he’s right there under me. So I had to let him go. Duu paddles back out I tell him f*ck Keane that was some Jedi Mind Trick tell me I love you and paddle for that wave while I’m yelling not this one. He goes I do love you, guess what I was too deep. Hahaha. So I tell him I love you too and I don’t care if the next wave comes right to you I’m going cause I’m hungry and I want to go in. The whole lineup is cracking up.
 

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
9,154
12,469
113
PNW
yesterday was fogged in. blah. today was calm and clean but man, i struggled. surfed the south wind spot. looked good but it was more of an illusion than a reality. gnarly rip and just not offering much of a face to play with. they would come in looking all cornered off and sick and then i paddle in and it just backs off or closes out. no middle ground. damn. tried to make the most of it. didn't want to come in in a foul mood but finally just got sick of paddling and gave up. oh well, got some exercise at least. rode the i72 and not sure if anything different would have helped.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
28,900
12,498
113
Tower 13
annual camping trip to central CA.

got rice's zone super fun on the way up. mid day offshores ftw.

surfed beachbreak for a couple days on the sparkplug twin. fun the first day, challenging the next, when the swell picked up.

rode the mitsven stap this morning at a reef and got a handful before enduring the horrible traffic back home.

pretty happy with the surf I got on this trip. stock.
 

Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
269
657
93
Marathon surf today. Beautiful conditions all day -- offshore, nice fall lighting.
Started at the inner bar area. The problem is that the whole middle half of the beach has nicely formed outer bars that would be great if we got some actual sizable swell, but it was just barely capping at this size. So the whole Sunday crowd was in a two-block area. There were some barrels on offer, but I was striking out with the crowd.

Got out and walked to the other end of the beach; definitely the right call. Found a nice bowly peak, pretty heavy for being basically head high. Got unreasonably angry at an adult-learner who got in my way, then felt embarrassed about it. Still had a good time.
 

sdsrfr

Michael Peterson status
Jul 13, 2020
3,304
6,466
113
San Diego
lulz at all the bickering in the lineup these days. olld duuuus getting mad at other old duuus, claiming more local status, etc. not to mention they all surf like adult learners.

its just kinda funny at this point and meanwhile millennial aged duuu’s who can rip are now on long fish and sniping all the botched waves from the crew on the outside.
 

rice

Duke status
Jul 2, 2002
24,281
1,732
113
CA
annual camping trip to central CA.

got rice's zone super fun on the way up. mid day offshores ftw.

surfed beachbreak for a couple days on the sparkplug twin. fun the first day, challenging the next, when the swell picked up.

rode the mitsven stap this morning at a reef and got a handful before enduring the horrible traffic back home.

pretty happy with the surf I got on this trip. stock.
Stoked. Should have hit me up. I probably was surfing near you that day. Twas a good weekend.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
22,298
4,132
113
San Francisco, CA
Saturday - Good windswell, 4 ft at 12 seconds, seemingly non-stop. Sideshore or offshore winds. Nearly ever ride (or attempt to catch) resulted in having to work hard to get back outside. The few that didn't were short-lived gems of a ride. Lots of people. Most memorable moment: short ride, paddling back out, next wave has surfer going right, so I paddle right to stay out of their way, duckdive, come up and am paddling hard to avoid the next wave and there is another guy going left, and I am in his way no matter what I do, so best is to to be predictable, and that means paddling hard, and duckdiving and hope he knows what he's doing, and he spazzes and comes up swearing at me from the impact zone as I continue to paddle hard for the horizon. When he gets out, wants me to know how ticked off he is. I felt like saying, "By successfully avoiding the first guy, got in your way but did my best to not make a mess of things, sorry." Instead just said, "Sorry" and paddled away while hearing him continue to vent. Stayed out about 4.5 hrs, was cramping in hip, calf, upper back and 'wing" muscles (am blaming combo of fatigue, dehydration, lack of better fitness), when I got stuck inside for the last 20 minutes. Much post surf sinus drainage hours later...in fact, did a few jumping jacks before bed (at 9:30) then did standing toe touches (more like attempts to touch toes) and more water flows out. Fell asleep in moments.

Sunday - Better in all respects. Bigger, offshore, more lulls, less people, more successful and better rides. Due to previous day exertion, was more choosey...being somewhat forced to have better wave selection paid off! Rode near Friend #1 who is still getting to know his new 8'0" 3-fin Campbell Brother's Bonzer. Think it is his first new board in 8-9 years. Ordered in May (?), got it late Sept. Most memorable moment was a late take-off to pearl to being picked up and thrown over the falls to the sand to mad-at-self to anger induced speedpaddle to spin--and-go-for-not-as-late-drop to snappy bottom turn to the pocket and then just relax and pet the cat till kick out. Stayed out 3.5 hours when the muscles started falling off the bone like the meat on a properly pressure-cooked pot roast. Fell asleep on the couch at 8:30-ish and "slept-walked" my way through the bedtime ritual. Took some ibuprofen.

Monday - Dawn patrolled to smaller waves that were much easier to get to, dry hair paddle-out. Longer lulls, much fewer people at 6:45 AM. Still offshore with more of the same reverse-fog as yesterday. Due to time, went on everything that came to me with mixed results: think I would have been better off by being more selective (the 'two birds in the bush' optimism in full display) but at the same time, more rides is the "bird in hand" that can't be denied. Rode the 3-fin picked up in Santa Cruz garage sale on a whim. The heavy glass makes these offshore days drops much smoother....there is just this little extra bit of momentum powered glide during the pop-up/drop that gives my tired self that extra edge to actually get in the wave without spazzing too hard. Best moment was when Friend #1 actually backed out of a wave letting me have unmolested drop and ride without having to deal with friendly fire. But the best ride started with the type of drop where you think you have maybe a 33% chance of getting around the bottom turn and you go anyway, and then make it. Suddenly I was filled with the (false?) belief that finally I am on my game after two months of fall surfing. Buoyed by this mindset, pushed myself and managed one of the longer floaters ever on this board. Next two waves after that, well, I should have chosen more wisely. Three hours later, my feet are still cold.
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
63,056
13,111
113
The Bar
Sunday - Better in all respects. Bigger, offshore, more lulls, less people, more successful and better rides.
Really wish I had surfed Sunday instead of Saturday. Figured I would surf both days but Saturday took the ever-loving **** out of me; back was killing me after surfing several days the whole previous week.

Sounds like you scored! :shaka:
 

oeste858

Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
4,144
9,930
113
San Diego, CA
couldn’t make it out before the tide was already draining pretty low and there was some wind starting up, but there was only a couple guys out at reef 2 so I paddled out on the 6’4 PlasmEgg to at least get wet. Wind backed off and it was cleaner and better than I expected with chest high sets popping up outside and running through to the almost-exposed reef on the inside. Most of the time it was me and one other dude but for a bit there were four of us. One of those rare days where it felt like it all came together, and the better waves came to wherever I was sitting like a magnet. Miraculously, archer and arrow were in perfect sync today.

I did end up with a fat lip from my rail after pulling into a hopeless section. But otherwise, the boar did everything I asked it to. I paddle this boar pretty far forward so after popping up, I had to consciously get back and kept my back foot over the fins- and it made such a difference with precise control on carves, snaps. Made some critical turns I didn’t think this shape was capable of. On the inside section, unleashed my inner M-Feb narrow stance while trimming from the middle and front third of the boar, sometimes crouching down to maintain momentum, fingers touching the face. Probably looked stupid KOTD but was fun as hell. Plasmegg (with Akila twins) flies around sections and was perfectly suited to the waves today.
:shaka:
 
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