***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

bluengreen

Gerry Lopez status
Oct 22, 2018
968
2,602
93
SF x Encinitas
Mid-period, overhead shallow inner bar. Super crowded. Got burned BAD by older local dude, member of the Wiley Real Estate mafia surf crew. :rolleyes: He was sitting kinda inside and just going on everything without looking, probably pissed that it was so crowded. I was looking for him to give me a nod on the way back out, at least to flex some localism (yeah, I did it on purpose, tranny), but he just ignored me, so I laughed it off. Doc Flavanoid, was that you!?

Pigdogged a really nice one but was slightly ahead of it. Some decent other ones. Talked to another local dude at the Pacheco look out. He rides his bike up Balboa St. with a longboard on a trailer. He was bitching about it being the worst fall he can remember in 35 years or something. Worst since I've been surfing here. Couple good days and a lot of mediocre ones. Oh well.
 
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Woke AF

Kelly Slater status
Jul 29, 2009
9,212
4,081
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Mid-period, overhead shallow inner bar. Super crowded. Got burned BAD by older local dude, part of the Wiley Real Estate mafia surf crew. :rolleyes: He was sitting kinda inside and just going on everything without looking, probably pissed that it was so crowded. I was looking for him to give me a nod on the way back out, at least to flex (yeah, I did it on purpose), but he just ignored me, so I laughed it off. Doc Flavanoid, was that you!?

Pigdogged a really nice one but was slightly ahead of it. Some decent other ones. Talked to another local dude at the Pacheco look out. He rides his bike up Balboa St. with a longboard on a trailer. He was bitching about it being the worst fall he can remember in 35 years or something. Worst since I've been surfing here. Couple good days and a lot of mediocre ones. Oh well.
It could have been me. I wasn’t going on everything but …So many pull backs, take off too deepers and soft shifty waves it was frustrating. If you look like grizzly adams and we’re going left, sorry. I sent myself in so there’s that.
digging the Tknox NVS fins. Makes my 6’3 spicy.
 

Yewstreet

OTF status
Nov 8, 2019
332
560
93
Mid-period, overhead shallow inner bar. Super crowded. Got burned BAD by older local dude, member of the Wiley Real Estate mafia surf crew. :rolleyes: He was sitting kinda inside and just going on everything without looking, probably pissed that it was so crowded. I was looking for him to give me a nod on the way back out, at least to flex some localism (yeah, I did it on purpose, tranny), but he just ignored me, so I laughed it off. Doc Flavanoid, was that you!?

Pigdogged a really nice one but was slightly ahead of it. Some decent other ones. Talked to another local dude at the Pacheco look out. He rides his bike up Balboa St. with a longboard on a trailer. He was bitching about it being the worst fall he can remember in 35 years or something. Worst since I've been surfing here. Couple good days and a lot of mediocre ones. Oh well.
I've only been here 2 years, but I've surfed way less this fall than last. Today was fun though, I guess the crowd was all at dawn as my mid morning session was fairly empty
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
63,347
13,581
113
The Bar
Yesterday was a beautiful day. Sunny, no wind, high 50s air and water, SH to HH with OH sets and a few sneaky bigger ones breaking out the back. Maybe about 10 - 15 people spread out over a few different peaks, most of us still stocked on how good Monday was. Even though there wasn't any wind, waves were a little warbly with random dead spots throughout the lineup. Still fun though. Mostly lefts burgering into a channel (of sorts) and dumpy, semi-closed out rights. Dry-hair paddle out + 2 waves was a nice treat for that spot too. Got ruined trying to pull up under the lip on some of those bigger rights but backdoored a nice little inside barrel that pinched me out where I ended up bodysurfing back up and over the shoulder - hilarious; I'll take it since it was pretty much a day of cutbacks.

Fall is good.
 

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
9,427
13,335
113
PNW
it's been pretty lame here lately. finally got some waves at our south wind spot today. rode the I72. felt really good to be back on a thruster. surfed for a few hours and got a bunch of fun ones. it wasn't perfect but there were some nugs to be had. lots of turns and one nice tube. i really needed that!
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,438
1,664
113
Oceanside, CA
Pretty meh at dawn, but ended up getting pretty fun and got a handful of fun waves on the
Manny Delta V twin. Dig that board, and it works better with more raked twins with less base than
with the keels. Just as fast and trim-happy but can whip around way better. 4 surfs this week...most
in months!
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,254
5,765
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the NS regular. Heard there were some wash throughs so I brought a 6’4 and the new 6’1. Wind was light offshore but rising tide and the swell was west. A little lower tide and more north it would be epic. Paddled the 6’1 out cause it was overhead but not maxing out.

First wave I got I was a deep and late and didn’t make it around. Next one was better and I did a couple of top turns and carve downs. But it felt slow. Oh no. Kicked out by Dave and told him the boar felt slow. He said tides too high don’t worry. Snagged a bunch of fun ones and got used to the new boar. Found the gas peddle and it works good. Would’ve been better on my 5’10 but was glad I rode it today. Last wave got a double up just inside of the peak. Kai took off too deep and got hung up so I whipped late. Wave stood up and I hit the lip after my bottom turn hit it again even better then went straight up on the last section befor the channel. Paddled in happy.
 
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sh3

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 1, 2008
1,534
1,042
113
Visit site
F, I love my GMM2.

Drove north and saw wild turkeys and deer.

Had a fun little session at a point north of town with just one other guy out. Everyone else congregated at one of the cracks in the cliff. Surfed just shy of an hour and then took off on a double up, pearled on the second drop, and my leash snapped. Loooooonnnnnngggg swim in, in which thoughts of Big Al serenaded in my head yet I laughed as I swam, then had to deal with the rocks inside just knowing the GMM2 was getting brutally deflowered. Almost battered my own self more than once. Came in wondering if I'd even find her after that swim. As I walked around the point, I spotted her sitting carefully & pristine on a small patch of sand between all the nasty rock outcroppings. Not even a snackle on the rail.

T'was a glorious morning.

Walking back found two clean ab shells shining with mother of pearl. Gave one to a kid looking for shells. Then saw a long decomposing whale on the beach, and was so happy I didn't notice that pre-session; I thought it was a huge tree that had washed ashore. Would've haired me out if I noticed it earlier. Then saw a friend whose friend with him apparently just ordered a GMM2.... 5'7", like mine. Solid choice. "Are you one of those guys on that message board?" Hahahaha. "Yeah, I am."

Who doesn't love this surfing life?

That GMM2 is magical on so many levels.

-sh3

PS: Used my new Isurus 3/3 zipless hooded suit. Amazing suit. Man this was a glorious morning to be alive.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
63,347
13,581
113
The Bar
This morning started out rough and it's funny. Got a good night's sleep, felt reasonably limber, but man, just in a funk for some reason in the water for first hour or so. Fog and residual windchop on top of an OH swell didn't really help. First wave, actually shaped up to be a decent left, too bad I was in a touch too far and windchop chunk hit me right as I was dropping in, enough of a lurch that lost footing and landed in the flats, dragged over the falls and rolled hard underwater for a long way. Longest holddown I have had in a long time, actually.

I had a feeling this would be the case as, while changing, I saw a lot of people getting eaten by that chop. I was one of them. That first hour to 90 minutes, I surfed horribly. In fairness, it was tough for a lot of people; only about a 5 foot takeoff window. Too far out, waves rolled under you, too far in and it lurched on you in a bad way. And taking any wave too far resulted in ruination. But a little fogbow came up and magically, the fog cleared, the wind died, and ocean smoothed out. Started to get in a little bit of a rhythm finally and got several fun waves, including a bomb right that came in way out the back and happened to be magically in position for. Pretty much a super late drop, bottom turn, pathetic top turn, and then kick out the back. Was actually nice to get that as it served as redemption from a previous one I blew where just a touch too much on my heels on a steep, late drop. That one earned almost an equal holddown to the first wave.

Beautiful day all in all. And nothing like a few good beatings to get the blood flowing.
 

Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
277
673
93
Paddled out in dense fog, eventually cleared up nicely.

A little overhead, barely breaking on pretty far out bars, then backing off but keeping some steepness for a looong way in. Felt like snowboarding or something cutting back and forth on unbroken wall. Entertaining but I've surfed too much swampyness recently, getting kinda sick of it.
 

Senor Sopa

Gerry Lopez status
Mar 11, 2015
984
1,443
93
Ponto
But a little fogbow came up and magically, the fog cleared, the wind died, and ocean smoothed out.
Nice, I saw one of those last week.

It was just too sunny and glassy, had to go check the surf. Down to south end of town at noon. HH sets and so glassy my eyes were burning at mid day. Sigh, again, super inconsistent. The sets were log-rangers though with 5+ waves per set. Crowd was light, as it was pretty small. But the best part of the crowd was there were zero e-bike gang-bangers.

Lot's of sand, and it's starting to resemble what is was long time ago. Catch the left at the peak, ride that part, then work it to the inside, where you can cutback and go right, or keep going left. Same ol' chit. The guys inside on the reform are trying to take off and go right, but you are up and riding towards them. Basic game of chicken, I use old school rules, thus, I don't get infringed on.

Cool chit: At the shower, while waiting for young preggo mom with two other nakey boys running wild and free, I mention to yound dude that from way, way outside, I saw his picklefork flying in the air. He was stocked, and said my last wave was good too.

Yolo chit: Not really, and not spontaneous, but went to SurfRide Solana after and picked up new wettie. LOL, tried on booties, couldn't even get them over my feet. Best part, I asked, and they threw in a free leash string.
 

sh3

Billy Hamilton status
Dec 1, 2008
1,534
1,042
113
Visit site
Another day at that same spot up north... another glorious day indeed. One hour only, but got 10 clean HH & HH+ waves with only one other person out. Used the GMM2 again because... because why not, that's why. Loving it.

Edit: Used the Isurus 3/3 zip-free hooded suit again today. That thing is the stuff miracles are made of. Light, warm, easy to move, and zero flush. I'm a believer.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,387
3,202
113
California/Hawaii
Surfed both days this weekend. Lite winds and decent swell.

Some guy blatantly burns me this morning and prevents me from getting around the section because he is in the way. No one has seen this guy before. He was also backpaddling the whole lineup before this. I confront him and he tells me "oh, you weren't going to make that so why are you mad." I tell him fook you and why do you get to decide that. He keeps lipping saying I'm in the wrong because he was further down the line and I couldn't catch up to him. Well, I couldn't catch him because he was in front of me.

Next wave comes and I stuff him hard. Bang rails with him and tell him fook you. lol. He gets off the wave and says he needs my name. lol. I tell him fook you, do something. He paddles away and says I'm being mean. What is wrong with people? The rest of the lineup was laughing at him and glad he got an earful. He was 100% in the wrong and couldn't just apologize. Male Karen's seem to have taken up surfing.