***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
9,178
12,511
113
PNW
Unexpectedly clean winds this morning. Chest-to-overhead waves at the kelpy reef and no one around. Texted my buddy and then went for it. Rode the Plasmic w/ alkali fins. Feels like a good combo, just like the fascination twins. I'll probably go back to the fascination because I prefer the stealth bomber look. Super fun and consistent when I first got out there. Tons of tail slidey turns and floaters over the inside boils. Had about an hour of really clean conditions and then the wind shifted funkily but didn't completely blow it out. It seemed as though some bigger sets were coming through and I blew a good one. Just wasn't able to keep the little twinny under control on the late drop. My buddy was out there in his 7-0 m13 getting deep roll ins from way out. The fcker.

Got a fun insider and took it in to switch out for the 6-4 Bullet twin. Been wanting to ride this one again and it seemed like a good time to try it. It felt good on the bigger ones but the sets seemed to be slowing down after I got back out there. Classic. Still, got a couple and one in particular that felt real nice. Wind kicked up a notch and side chop started rolling through the lineup so we bagged it.
 

bluengreen

Nep status
Oct 22, 2018
932
2,542
93
SF x Encinitas
Went to my usual spot and it was pretty good. High tide inner bar barrels. Got a deep frontside vision before the curtain closed and got driven to the bottom. One short but clean head dip to a fast and low cutback back into the whitewater. Damn, a little speed and this Hess quad has effortless drive. Some other fun ones.

Saw Kool-Aid entering his apartment across the street and yelled at him like a crazy person. "Adam! Kool-Aid" It's Nathan from the Forum" "What forum?" :unsure: "The surfer Forum!"

Driving to work got a text from a friend who said he just got out of the water and it was epicly firing. Yeah, it was fun but not that good. Where did you surf? Blank Street. Drove by blank street and HOLY sh!t. Easily twice as good as it was down the road. Truly firing.

Thought about calling in sick to work, but impossible since I'm a teacher and I had three classes in a row starting in an hour. I've got my eye on you Blank street!
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,166
5,320
113
eastside oahu
Been surfing the town regular on the Moonfish. There’s been a couple long period south swells, occasionally head high but king tide for the dawn patrol. So waves are fat and lully. I’m patient and just wait for a couple of the better ones that swing wide and was able to get some rail work in. Not bad for November.

One of the dawn patrol regulars tweaked his knee playing in the old man soccer league and has been riding his boar prone. I always tease him his surfing is so boring it puts me to sleep. When I saw him riding prone I told him your boring surfing even put you to sleep. Haha.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,428
1,615
113
Oceanside, CA
Finally able to surf dawn again. Monday got a couple ok waves amidst lots of close-outs
on the JS Black Baron twin. Caught waves pretty well, but didn't feel like it paddled great for
it's size and felt small and a touch squirrelly up and riding. Intrigued enough to want to try one
a touch bigger, but moved it on.
Today was pretty inconsistent, but got a couple ok (and one pretty fun) waves on the 6'10"
Snyder twinzer. Nothing great, but so nice to be in the water on the regular again.
 

cstreet

Nep status
Feb 19, 2021
717
737
93
Southern Cali
First time this season wearing booties, mostly because I’ve been getting little cuts on my tail side foot from the big MR twins, I guess, and they took some getting used to. Sticky-ass feet like fook’n Spider-Man or some sh!t.

Coming in after sunset at Silver Strand, a lady approached me and said there was a guy by the jetty who lost his board and was having trouble swimming to shore. She asked if she should call 911. I said that she should but still headed for the parking lot. There’s a pretty intense current at the tip of the jetty on big days but it wasn’t that big, and I figured that if that was the problem the guy could simply go with the current and go around the jetty and easily get to shore from the other side. At the shower another woman approached me about it so I went over to the jetty. I couldn’t see the guy on either side. It was pretty far away though and I don’t have the best night vision.

Taking off my wetsuit at the car, the fire engines, ambulances, and rescue boats started arriving. The really fucked up part is that before leaving I noticed that the boats were cursing around the jetty, like they couldn’t find the guy.

Can’t help thinking that if I jumped on it right away it might have made a difference, and that I’m a sh!t person.
 

Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
269
657
93
hoping the beachwalker crew just didn't see that that guy made it in Cstreet! honestly from what I remember there it didn't seem like there's that big of a rip by that jetty?
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
63,058
13,114
113
The Bar
hoping the beachwalker crew just didn't see that that guy made it in Cstreet! honestly from what I remember there it didn't seem like there's that big of a rip by that jetty?
Depends on the sand but that rip is a pretty solid expressway; has to be at least a 3-5' swell though and you're talking a 5' wide current at most. Even then it just takes you in a big circle once you get hit by the longshore current cutting under the breakwater. :shrug:

Hopefully the guy swam in OK.
 

cstreet

Nep status
Feb 19, 2021
717
737
93
Southern Cali
hoping the beachwalker crew just didn't see that that guy made it in Cstreet! honestly from what I remember there it didn't seem like there's that big of a rip by that jetty?
Not usually, no, it’s gotta be big. I was out there once on a big day and the rip was so strong that you could barely make headway to shore. Finally figured out that you just need to paddle parallel to the beach southward, which is where I wanted to go in the first place. :foreheadslap:

Anyway, couldn’t find anything in the news this morning so they must be alright.
 
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Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
269
657
93
last night:
sunset surfed one end of the beach out front to try to try to get some wind protection. Had just come off the high tides and there were some lumpy, overhead, midperiod peaks. Just enough wind warble to make you do akward poo-stance drops, then the tide was high enough that there wasn't much shoulder. split the peak with a kid who was honestly catching the better waves, then he went in with ~25 mins of light left and it just shut down. had to paddle all the way in, and was paddling back and forth trying to at least catch a chip-in to stand up on the shorebreak, feeling kinda dumb, with beach walkers having stopped to watch me desperately catch a consolation prize to not have paddled all the way in.
 
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j_mac

OTF status
Aug 16, 2020
233
852
93
Fun morning. Waves were waist to chest, nothing special, but sometimes this just becomes uber fun owing to the easy wave catching and playing. Started with the 5' 4" Will's Fish, and it went well. After 2 hours, stopped sip on some coffee and eat figs newtons. I wasn't going to switch boards but decided to grab the 5' 4 Plasmic as the waves were dropping for the next session. I am so glad that I did. The Plasmic was cheating between the wave catching, speed generation, and ease to throw it all over the place. The 2nd session was mostly composed of long boarders and midlengths. I know they were puzzled in how I was snagging so many waves. One guy asked at one point, what I was surfing.