***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

vanrysss

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 25, 2019
544
1,066
93
Really want to surf Sunset one day. Reminds me a little of a tropical OB.
Do it, not getting any younger! I feel like DOH Sunset is pretty reasonable if you're surfing sizeable OB. It's not until the sets start hitting 8ft like the clip I posted (rest of the set was bigger than that wave) that it starts showing it's fangs. Smaller like 6ft days with fewer people out are my favorite, and significantly less scary.
 

Senor Sopa

Nep status
Mar 11, 2015
858
1,178
93
Ponto
Waited out the flood tide, paddled out at 12:30. Super duper extra glass, although some texture showed up later. Way too inconsistent, but got better at the end as tide bottomed out. Plenty of hh+ (when they came). Best waves were all about the double fade and/or mid face stalls. One actually put me in the pocket due to slowing down. Nothing special, but more than enough to get me off my butt and go paddle out. I don't go out every day like some here. You gots to have standards.

Saw John4Surf's son, way out the back on a low tide mysto reef. Not nearly big enough today, I hope he caught one. Also chatted a bit with Whitney "Guild Factor" Guild. LOL, mini-set came in and he got crushed, two boards bailed, tombstoning with bodies still underwater. Made me laugh...

This beach seems to produce the goods for my camera.

??? chit: More than one person on the beach thought a fisherman blew it, :unsure: I had to clue them in to reality. Probably came in last night, and they had to wait all day for the tide to go out before the towing.

1636160470118.png
 

oeste858

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2017
3,183
7,216
113
San Diego, CA
Rapidly dropping tide at outerish reef #2 for some shoulder-OH rights. Wasn’t as big as it looked from shore and most waves would standup but then back off and roll underneath. But 1-2 each set would break where they were supposed to and were fun. Even on the 6’7 Townsend I had to dig deep to catch them tho. Ledgy drop and then a bit of a fast-slow-fast wall to work with. had one wobble on frontside bottom turn, then looked down at my feet and realized my back foot was way too far front of the fins. Gotta consciously remember to adjust when popping up after paddling pretty far forward to catch these waves.

Got super shallow on the inside at negative low. Feet are all cut up doing the dry rock dance in for last 100 yds.

hoping to get the Twinsman RP out the next few days. Probably would’ve been fun today but I thought it was gonna be way OH.
 
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Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
8,706
10,737
113
PNW
Didn't expect to surf today. The weather has been absolute rubbish and I thought today was supposed to be more of the same. It ended up being fairly calm though so I went and checked the kelpy reef which is one of the few waves that can sometimes handle a 9+ ft. high tide such as we had this morning. It looked pretty fun and no one around so I just went for it. Entering the water was sketchy with no real beach to speak of and lots of driftwood being pushed in and out in the shorepound. Made it out okay and got a few fun waves right off the bat. The Plasmic felt good for the most part but I probably should have been on something longer as the sets were well overhead and I got hung up and pitched on a couple near the start of my session.

I had it to myself for nearly an hour before people started showing up. The crowd peaked at six guys, all regulars and no one being too greedy but it did cut down on my wave count, especially when the tide was slacking and the sets became infrequent. I went to the inside and kind of had my own thing going on the smaller, wide ones until my good buddy clued in and joined me. The smaller ones felt better suited to the little twinfin anyways. The overall quality of the swell was not great but there was plenty of opportunities and even some fairly good sections to be had if you got lucky. Highlight of the session was probably a high speed fin drift along a crumbly coping section. It felt like a lip slide in the skate bowl. The winds are back and it's raining again so I feel very lucky to have gotten a decent session in between the storm fronts.
 

Senor Sopa

Nep status
Mar 11, 2015
858
1,178
93
Ponto
pretty fun runners at first light that turned into slopey skateable waves on the tide push. spot b was empty. couldn't believe it
Spot A for me was not empty.

Took a long way to the beach today. Wifey came home late, no car. Dropped her off deep in area of 2.5M homes and took the backside of Encinitas to the beach. Saw some horses along the way, Encinitas not done. Followed the river all the way to spot A. Waves were great shape, but again, too few, too far. Much smaller than yesterday. Yesterday, parking was a mess due to tide flood. Today, didn't even reach the lot. The tide surge fizzled. Plenty of rides going down, just not by me. Targe playing field made it more luck of the spin to catch em. Still, good speed, and lengthy rides.

After session, I drove further down, to spot B for a check, it was better. Pack of 20 E-bikes.

Cool chit: While talking with older crust bro, looking to the South, I see a splash. Cool, a fish, ooh a dolphin. Ahhh, umm, errr, wtf! that was a shark that just breached all the way out, Air Jaws style. In triple decades at this spot, I've never seen nothing close to any resemblance of shark. This dude was bigger than me, but not much. Crust bro doesn't even flinch, and tells me that earlier in the week just outside the lineup, a shark munched something, blood all over, no remains. He was pushing the surfline rewind, 10:35? Monday? Crust bro is retired fire fighter, pretty reliable for this kind of intel.
 

Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
226
512
93
woowwwww, pretty woolly today

Sunset surf at the beach out front. Was only barely overhead, but just everything about it felt bigger than that. Was trying to line up an inside bar because it was a bit cleaner, but it was so consistent that there was tons of water moving around. Every drop turned into a semi-airdrop because of the big moguls in the face. Got stuck inside and the current was just pulling me right in front of the peak, which did not stop. I think that might've been the most I've gotten my ass kicked on that size day. Caught two that ran inside for a way. Just felt like a big day even though it objectively wasn't. A fun type of shitty I guess.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,172
11,974
113
The Bar
Out with the usual morning crew. HH-OH waves, 10-11 second period. At first thought south "channel" would be workable and while changing watched one friend and another get absolutely chewed and held in place by washing machine. Crazy because looked like clean paddle but no. So I would outsmart this and go on north side. See someone else 50 yards ahead; quickly catch up to him and think oh yeah this paddle out will be cake. WRONG. Not even that powerful but just relentless, held in place for an intolerable time, after many inventive cuss words, 20 minutes later or thereabouts, finally through that sh!t.

Actually a really fun left that formed up out of sandbar but waves with fast incoming tide were super burgery, actually more like burgery on outside and then double up on inside happened and well hahaha, well. You didn't really know how they would break until you were over that ledge. Some rights worked but others would bend enough to bottom turn around section and just see next 50 feet go whump. Ugh. But many good lefts that bowled with a decently forming sandbar. And then you usually got fucked on the paddle back out. Good cardio; justifies the post-sesh coldies. Got several fun lefts although it was really warbly. I am OK with the new 6'6" I got, figuring its quirks but one annoying as fook thing is that it does not spin and go well at all. Too much nose foam, funky rocker, whatever, it's a fault. Oh well. Still, last left I got was deep with people scratching from inside so I definitely had to make the bottom turn but glided around the section right into pocket as whole wave feathered way down line in complete froth (bigger one broke through first), got some speed through it taking a high line, a little cutback around and about before wave petered out just a bit off the sand.

Oh yeah, fun item, paddling back out after a wave, duck dive, come up, and right off my right hand is a damn sea nettle, about a foot across. Thought I avoided it but weird thing is left thumb is all tingly, slightly swollen, itchy, and a general pain in the ass. Wonder if I got tagged paddling as tentacles went under board? Weird sh!t,
 

need 4 speed

Miki Dora status
Nov 1, 2003
5,602
1,559
113
SoCal
Some good quality today, waist to shoulder combo-ish bowls and uber glassy. Smaller than yesterday but hit it earlier with much better tide. Left it still good, enough to go around . Made a couple of solid turns on the 6-2 poly twinzer, figuring it out. Very different than my Divinycell stringer eps. Quick chat with redrider before the dawn patrol crew bounced
 
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Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,212
647
113
Out with the usual morning crew. HH-OH waves, 10-11 second period. At first thought south "channel" would be workable and while changing watched one friend and another get absolutely chewed and held in place by washing machine. Crazy because looked like clean paddle but no. So I would outsmart this and go on north side. See someone else 50 yards ahead; quickly catch up to him and think oh yeah this paddle out will be cake. WRONG. Not even that powerful but just relentless, held in place for an intolerable time, after many inventive cuss words, 20 minutes later or thereabouts, finally through that sh!t.

Actually a really fun left that formed up out of sandbar but waves with fast incoming tide were super burgery, actually more like burgery on outside and then double up on inside happened and well hahaha, well. You didn't really know how they would break until you were over that ledge. Some rights worked but others would bend enough to bottom turn around section and just see next 50 feet go whump. Ugh. But many good lefts that bowled with a decently forming sandbar. And then you usually got fucked on the paddle back out. Good cardio; justifies the post-sesh coldies. Got several fun lefts although it was really warbly. I am OK with the new 6'6" I got, figuring its quirks but one annoying as fook thing is that it does not spin and go well at all. Too much nose foam, funky rocker, whatever, it's a fault. Oh well. Still, last left I got was deep with people scratching from inside so I definitely had to make the bottom turn but glided around the section right into pocket as whole wave feathered way down line in complete froth (bigger one broke through first), got some speed through it taking a high line, a little cutback around and about before wave petered out just a bit off the sand.

Oh yeah, fun item, paddling back out after a wave, duck dive, come up, and right off my right hand is a damn sea nettle, about a foot across. Thought I avoided it but weird thing is left thumb is all tingly, slightly swollen, itchy, and a general pain in the ass. Wonder if I got tagged paddling as tentacles went under board? Weird sh!t,
LOL I don't miss that. Was this at the tide rock or Bean?
 

Chee-to

Michael Peterson status
Jan 11, 2002
2,212
647
113
Tide rock.
Yeah that was my first guess. The north "channel" is almost never easier unless you're way down the line heading over to the Boneyard, and the longshore current typically runs in the wrong direction from there to get back to the tide rock left. All part of the fun.
 
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CutnSnip

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2018
3,506
3,318
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Yesterday funsize peaks barely squeaking through the tide. couple fun ones connected to the inside and lined up, allowing for some shreds but nothing super memorable.

This a.m. - same steez - maybe an inch or two more size but a little more peaky and rippable., not sure if it was the residual candyflip in my system or what but the water was weird and brown and stinky and made for some weird vibeage. Sets were slow to show - dicked around on the inside and got a bunch of fun ones under the crowd on the flare. pulled a little bside carving 3 slater style on the inside so that was cool i guess. off to work :(
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,172
11,974
113
The Bar
The kind of days you just pinch yourself. Low 40s air made the 57 degree water feel warm. Sunny, 10 kts offshore winds, with a tide push. Actually started out kind of frustrating as a lot of waves teased and backed off but it got better and better as morning went on and tide came in. HH - few feet OH peaks that just went; super clean and lined up so well. There was a lot of good rights but they dumped you in a spot that was a long slog paddling back out against a reverse rip. Lefts were tricky in that it was hard to tell what was closing out and what wasn't at times; errors were made. Mostly focused on the lefts and got a whole bunch of them with a lot of solid turns on each, even more so as I'm getting this board more and more dialed.

Only about a dozen people spread out over a few peaks. Wish I hadn't had to bail by mid-morning because it was so damn good out there. But still a solid 2 1/2 hour session that ended on a flurry of 4 good waves in about 10-15 minutes with a nice backside hack on the last one that felt good enough to go in on.

Stocked. :shaka:
 

oeste858

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2017
3,183
7,216
113
San Diego, CA
Early afternoon on rapidly dropping high tide at a reef under the flight path. 6 guys out, plenty of waves. Was steeper than it looked from the cliff and wind stayed down for pretty clean conditions. Big playing field, lots of paddling, breaking pretty far out. Chest-HH wedges, racetrack rights and shorter lefts.
Didn’t get too many turns in, but had a blast racing the rights on 6’1 Twinsman RP with Shapers Album Performance Twins. A couple closeouts. Pulled into a few sections, had a few beatings, with a couple trips through the spin cycle under water. Really like this boar, exactly the kind of swell/conditions I got it for.
2mil full with thin booties for the sketchy high tide rock entry/exit.
Good day.