***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***


Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
surfed a spot a ways from home this evening. been like 2 years since i surfed this spot. got lucky this time. it was chest to overhead fairly long rights. lots of wonk and whatnot but plenty of fun, punchy, bowly ones to be had. i know most of the locals and i kind of kept to the inside for a while until it seemed like they were okay with me being part of the rotation. pretty good vibes except for the one perma grump. rode the plasmic which felt great. some of the better waves were growers that would run and start throwing big sections through the inside. i was digging how well the board would hold a high line and then drive around the sections. crowd thinned out near sunset and it was just me and one young guy for the last 30 mins. the tide was filling in and the waves were slowing down in kind of a good way. steep pockets for multiple slashes in a row. weeee


Nep status
Mar 25, 2019
Yup, beautiful glassy conditions but I had a hard time figuring out where to sit and there was a fair crowd out. Decided to call it a day after this one.
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Nep status
Oct 22, 2018
SF x Encinitas
Really want to surf Sunset one day. Reminds me a little of a tropical OB.

Speaking of which, high tide session this morning. Paddled out with one other guy, a friendly Aussie named Josh who surfs Mavs. He mentioned surfing it that stormy day last week when others were towing. Also said his buddy needed to pull his vest Thursday at OB after getting caught inside where waves were capping and then loading up on an inside bar at Ortega. Gnarly.

We were the only ones out around Moraga. 15 minutes paddle wasn't too bad. Swell was on the wane but still solid 2xOH+, with waves backing off before pitching and shouldering out for the most part. Not choppy but bumpy, with big lumps wonking things up. Pods of dolphins, including some babies frolicking. A most wild and mellow sesh.

Thought I would test the SOC Twin in some solid surf. Results were not good. A little late to my first one, got air under the nose and made the drop before hitting a mogul and getting bucked off. A gun would have sunk in and knifed through. Other waves the board just felt skittish and at times out of control. WAY too much lift from that concave. Lesson learned! Back on the 7'6 and 8'3 for these long period swells.
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Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
San Diego, CA
Late afternoon low tide, close to reef #3. Looked kinda chunky and a bit of wind but saw a decent-sized set so wanted to test out the Townsend. 6-7 dude crowd on the left but most were kinda closing out so I paddled a bit south and was the only taker for the shoulder-high rights. Wind actually slowed down and it got cleaner.

Was pretty impressed with the Townsend: catching all the sets (even at size, a bit of foam/length helps at this spot), zipping past long potentially closeout sections and connecting the open faces with smooth carves before the inside racetrack section. Got shut down pulling into 3-4 closeouts on the inside but I did manage one quick, barely coverup just before reaching the exposed rocks.
The lineup got packed around 5pm. Took an inside left in.

Board has lots of glide / speed yet still feels foiled and nimble. Gonna be a fun one for these reefs when it’s OH.
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Miki Dora status
Jun 23, 2004
the Injured Reserve
Haven’t posted in a while - but a pair of back to back banger sessions worthy of a report.

Day 1 was socked in with surf not visible, but other visible spots indicating that it would be good, so I went out semi blind (it cleared momentarily and confirmed my suspicions). Was crazy busy - more heads than I’ve seen before. But, mostly buoys, clueless folks, so kinda had my run of the place. I get into the lineup and see the handful of regulars and my first comment is, “man, who the fook are all these guys?!?” drawing a chuckle from the familiar faces. Off to the races…

Highlights include the guy living in our converted garage/ADU showing up (he’s a kiter mostly) with a coworker, and said coworker burns me off the peak, badly. I damn near was gonna raise the dudes rent just for association - but I shrugged it off and got the acknowledgment from the few other regulars of “wtf is going on out here.”

Moved wide and the waves turned on. Riding a tried and true board that was perfect for the conditions, starting gorging on wave after wave - felt great being in rhythm and surfing fast. 90 minutes in, some dude calls out my name and says howzit - I couldn’t conjure the name so I said hello back and “how’s the lady?” To which he replied, “oh, we split.” LOL.

Chat for a minute about life (still can’t remember his name, but I eliminate a few possibilities from the list) when he mentions, oh, aren’t you having another kid? Yes I am, due January- he says “oh yeah, you have your son with (crazy ex) and now number two right?” And i finally place him as associate of my ex’s lady friends - but he was being super cool with me, giving me the impression that yes, indeed, people know she’s nuts. I mention the tide drop is closing it out but opening up some lefts and the inside shelf is throwing more, and then note I’ll be snagging one shortly to head out (and note that those cursed words will result in a 30 minute lull) when one rolls my way so I dig hard to chip in and the wave ledges out and lines up - next thing I know, super clean round tube before a slash on the last section and I belly in to call it. Felt sick to come in on a good wave for once.

Second day I got delayed by child activities and didn’t make it out til around lunch but it was still glassy and when I peak and see no heads in the water I just suit and go, not too worried about the fading swell and less than ideal tide. Session turns out super fun, solo for 30, with another guy for 30, and about 5 for the last 15-20 - caught a larger set wave, felt like I crushed the first turn and then skirted around to the inside for a few cutbacks - bellied in and called it.

Wind came up out of the south and wrecked it and I was laughing all the way home. Nice to get in a groove!

Also, took out my new 7’0 on a 10@17 morning earlier that week and clicked with the board instantly - can’t wait for some more big days to really put it through its paces.



OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
Surfed the beach late afternoon. It was just the size that makes me realize that I have a hole in my quiver between my 6'6" step up and 8'2" gun. took out the step up and caught a few, but felt sketchy, was skittering into waves on the shoulder. went in and grabbed the gun. a bit overkill, but much better. there were a ton of people out all on one single sandbar (it was legit pretty good) but the rest of the beach was surprisingly empty. need more gun days, that ended up being fun.


Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
The Bar
Fav spot was working yesterday. Saw some idiots post pics on the gram. Heard it was mobbed today.
Waves look fun still!!

thinking about ditching work. can I say I have covid and surf for a few weeks?
Considering Vitamin D is supposed to ward off Covid, a sunburn will not blow up your sick leave excuse for bailing on work.

BTW, this is why you never tell people at work that you surf. So much harder to get away with sick days. And I always made sure I was on the throne in mid-glory when phoning in. The sick days were not questioned. :roflmao:


Phil Edwards status
Oct 17, 2007
valley purgatory
everyone knows I surf at work :foreheadslap:
used to surf with my old boss and his boss. Hell everyone on my old team surfed.

my new Tactic is to send emails at 5am while drinking coffee and getting old body to move.
then I surf and dgaf. no one seems to mind. I want all day though!


Gerry Lopez status
Apr 10, 2009
BTW, this is why you never tell people at work that you surf.
Truth! Recently changed jobs almost 3 years ago now and no one knows, its awesome! Was always hard living and working in small costal towns, but the anonymity of living in a city with no surf is quite nice in that respect.

While I'm here...... falls been hit or miss per usual with systems plowing through every week, but the last 4 days have been as good as it gets. Highlight was offshore peaky beachies with occasional choobs and sun a blazing Sat to gloomy but reeling and highly shredable waves yesterday on the Ghost. Had more turns in the past week than I have had in quite a while. Looks like back to victory at sea for the time being. Sucks here.
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Gerry Lopez status
Dec 27, 2019
year older than me old timer said "finally. offshores blue skies just the right size swell for this bar. im calling it. bout time. opening day" and trailed off...

to which my same age bro said "nah dude. season already opened. you just missed it"...

loser hour fair to good, thick wfh crowd. funny sopa chit- 11am lifer announced his arrival loudly to the pack "what the fuckk. you all living off biden handouts and i had to sacrifice to get this"

old man floater to belly one in 3+ hours later and still waves
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Miki Dora status
Sep 11, 2017
San Diego, CA
Low tide at main reef for some kinda shifty waist-chest high wedges. 15 guys outside, but they weren’t really connecting to the inside. Amused myself by staying on the way inside right hook by myself, and trying to get in early and backdoor the section on the townsend. Not much chance of success but still fun… and good practice pulling in for cleaner days ahead.