***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***

CutnSnip

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2018
3,506
3,318
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
surprisingly fun this a.m. for the dp in SLA. forecast wasnt looking good at all, but woke up and rolled the dice. looked tiny in the lot but more size than i expected and pretty consistent.. had the banjo but wouldve been better off on the Flare. my banjo barely moves on the paddle out. catches waves like a champ but basically paddles backwards on the way out. friggen weird. couple little corners here and there lots of walls. got one that a few peeps claimed was the wave of the day so ill take that to the spank bank but under surfed it for sure with the banjo and just sorta cruised it and swooped out some turns.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
27,721
9,621
113
Tower 13
soft lines that never really stood up today at the local.

crowded as fook.

forgot to say that I rode a No Brainer for a few waves today. I wanted to hate it but it was actually pretty fun. I would say an excellent board for a first shortboard or a lower intermediate surfer. Super easy to ride.
 
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oeste858

Michael Peterson status
Sep 11, 2017
3,183
7,216
113
San Diego, CA
soft lines that never really stood up today at the local.
That described my waves from sunset yesterday.

Was able get out for a nooner today after working in the morning. Waist high, clean but soft at dropping tide reef #2. About 7-8 guys out, most just graduated from Wavestorm University and were on too-short-for-them boars. Only 1 guy on a beautiful John Holly egg/mid knew what he was doing. So he and I traded waves from outside for about 30min.
The 6'7 Townsend asym glided into all the waves I paddled for and connected through a couple sections for some long rights, dodging the adult learner obstacles and low-tide reef. It loves to swoop n carve out on the open face. Can see this being really fun on long HH-OH rights at these reefs. Looking forward to that. Had one left where I spun out on the backside bottom turn- which I thought the asym tail+fin placement was supposed to prevent- but maybe I just hit a mogul in the wave. Will have to try out more lefts, but man, it feels good frontside.
After 40 min, it was just me and a grom who had paddled out. Waves slowed down and conditions got more onshore and crumbly over the next 15 min, so took a left in after catching a couple short mushburgers.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,078
4,826
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the NS regular. It was a couple feet overhead mixed swell but lots of north to get the threadmill going and some heavy double ups. Rode my 5’10 summer stubby cause it looked soft and west from the beach but after a few waves the north started flexing.

Got a couple of coverups but didn’t get a good knife in on the best ones I went for. Love it when I’m trying to get under the double and no matter how hard I paddle I get sucked up backwards until gravity takes over. Even on the ones I didn’t get barreled just making the take-off feels like an accomplishment. Got a double that felt like the whole inside bowl dropped out from under me. Got a coverup but was going too fast to get deep. A guy just paddled out told me he was surprised when he saw me kick out the wave sucked so hard he didn’t think I got to my feet before it hucked.

I think it’s going to be too big for that place by tonight. Gonna check out some other winter favorites.
 

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
8,706
10,737
113
PNW
Surfed up north. Fog lifted just enough to see the break. Hard to tell size from the beach. Ended up being solidly overhead on the sets. Rode the 6-2 insanity. Board felt okay but i didnt feel like i surfed super well. Super wonky and difficult out there. Every time i paddled into a wave it felt like it was getting pitched. Got a few that connected and allowed for a couple turns. Got the fins out the back on one that felt pretty good. Took a lot of waves on the head and even had a few long hold downs. Feeling more like winter up here.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,172
11,974
113
The Bar
Drizzly, cruddy morning with all indications it would be sh!t but get there and surprisingly decent. Shoulder to head high for the most part and just really fun and playful. No paddle out of death for once. Relatively crowded but not horrible as I got a lot of waves, enough that I was giving some away to people who apparently didn't want them. Too funny but didn't matter; lots of waves that came in. Best were the rights that broke outside, had enough juice to make it through a little boggy section and then a little racier on the inside, lining up for a good 50 to 75 yards or so. Slowly but surely getting that Senate dialed. Was a good day for it as it generally was decent at maintaining speed through flatter sections, Huntington Hop and overall morning sluggishness (rudely awakened at 5 AM to take a huge dump; I hate that) be damned.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
1,981
1,897
113
Innzid
Been quiet for a while. Locked down since mid August - the day after moving north - and not stoked about it, but at least able to surf.

Anyhoo, pumping point surf half the time, ok point surf the rest of the time, with some beach break days thrown in. Water's warming up too.

Hope you're all good.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,078
4,826
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the NS regular. Swell hasn’t crept in yet. Smaller than yesterday but perfect conditions and less current.
Brought a 6’0 and 6’4 M7 but could’ve used the 5’10 today.
Got some vert bashes and wraps, no tubes. Fun sesh light crowd for the weekend. I think people might’ve thought it was going to be maxed out and since it was smaller than yesterday and more west there’s some other NS nooks and crannies that light up with these conditions.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,172
11,974
113
The Bar
Smaller than yesterday. mostly chest to shoulder high, maybe some head high sets. A little burgery but that new(ish) 6'6" is perfect for those types of waves, cruised through the flat sections, threading waves to the inside with relative ease. Super playful and really nice to get a bunch of waves where I didn't have to worry about getting pummeled for 20 minutes getting back out. It was extremely crowded but there were quite a few adult learners sprinkled throughout the crowd so picking waves off generally wasn't too hard. It was a little inconsistent but figured out quickly that the bigger first wave of the set would flatten out, taking several people with it, while the 2nd and/or 3rd wave would actually break pretty decently with everyone inside. Used that tactic and got a lot of waves, disproportionate amount compared to rest of crowd. Realized that, hung back, chilled, let a few sets through, and then got skunked for 20 minutes. Too funny. Just 20 feet away every time from where peaks came in; bad luck.

Was pretty much burnt anyways by that time, repositioned myself to another sandbar that had a series of inside lefts coming through under the nose of the crowd. Caught 4 waves in about 5 minutes or so and called it. Felt great to have a sesh where I could have a high wave count. Great to get that board wired, get some solid turns in and throw some water around.

Oh, and better yet, come home to find out I won $15 in the yahoo daily fantasy freeroll (33th place; just shy of the $1,000 1st place prize). Well, it pays for wax for a while.
 
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Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,197
2,908
113
California/Hawaii
Super fun yesterday. Swell didn't fill in this morning.

A lot of people out at dawn expecting a hyped swell. Guy and his friend paddle out. Friend paddles straight to the peak and paddle battles me and a few others within 30 seconds of being in the lineup. I go after he tries to snake me.

5 min later I'm going for a wave and this guy looks straight at me and stuffs me. He paddles back out and says nothing so I confront him. First he says he couldn't see me. Then he says he would have pulled off if I called him off. So I give him a big FU and be a dick since he looked right at me and it was the most egregious burn someone has done to me in a long time. He says sorry and I finish the conversation with "you're not sorry". lol

He came over 5 min later and apologized and squashed it. I admit I got a little more heated than I normally do over a crappy wave. But, some people push buttons.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
4,078
4,826
113
eastside oahu
Super fun yesterday. Swell didn't fill in this morning.

A lot of people out at dawn expecting a hyped swell. Guy and his friend paddle out. Friend paddles straight to the peak and paddle battles me and a few others within 30 seconds of being in the lineup. I go after he tries to snake me.

5 min later I'm going for a wave and this guy looks straight at me and stuffs me. He paddles back out and says nothing so I confront him. First he says he couldn't see me. Then he says he would have pulled off if I called him off. So I give him a big FU and be a dick since he looked right at me and it was the most egregious burn someone has done to me in a long time. He says sorry and I finish the conversation with "you're not sorry". lol

He came over 5 min later and apologized and squashed it. I admit I got a little more heated than I normally do over a crappy wave. But, some people push buttons.
I burned one of the dawn patrol regulars at my NS spot by accident. I always sit inside until I see everyone of the guys that paddle out in the dark get a set. They’re all transplants and a couple had to be put in check but after all these years they’ve earned my respect. One of my friends got a “minor”shark bite on their hand at this spot and I always wait for a sliver of light before paddling out. These 2 guys and sometimes a third rush out in the dark unless it’s maxing out. I paddled up and shook his hand and said sorry I usually only burn someone on purpose but I saw the guy outside of me pull back and whipped. He laughed and said he would’ve hooted me off but that might’ve made it worse. Hahaha.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
62,172
11,974
113
The Bar
While we are on the subject of dastardly deeds haha, no I didn't burn anyone but this one grom trying to poach my waves on the inside, was going down the line on a left with some speed off a bottom turn, threw a big hack off the section, and sprayed the living sh!t out of his dad (and almost the kid too). Actually not my intention whatsoever but it happened. :roflmao: Grom glared, I laughed and shrugged.

Catch-22 with that board. It's got more foam forward than I like which gives it more swing weight but at same time, it crushes through those flat spots. Still a little irked at this one right where on inside it started wedging so I bottom turned and slashed it a couple times but was wrong call as way it wedged, if I had just parked it, would have been slotted for quite a while. Alas. So many waves so good. Just wish I could surf sooner than I can as feeling in a great rhythm.
 

Tarab_ish

OTF status
Nov 14, 2018
226
512
93
took the longboard out for the first time in a while at the beach out front this late afternoon. crumbly and waist high, just out there to get out of the house and in the sun a bit. Found a nice little bowly left peak that repeatedly took me through the same gaggle of young-adult-learners who weren't really figuring out where to sit for that peak. made it a short session because I didn't want to feel like I'm being obnoxious by catching everything in sight.
 

Aruka

Kelly Slater status
Feb 23, 2010
8,706
10,737
113
PNW
Jetty waves up North on the Plasmic. First half of the session was kinda tough. Got a few but couldnt get a rhythm going. Came in, put in some bigger fins, drank some water and went back out. Pushing tide had a left corner starting to work. Had a great 2nd half.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,345
1,393
113
Oceanside, CA
Was pretty awful yesterday, but got a couple trim wiggles on the Mitsven Magic
before it totally fell apart. Will hold judgment until ok or decent waves, but seems
to trim forward through sections well and responsive off the tail.
Zero expectations today and lucked into a crazy long left on my first wave on the
VS HPTC log. Got a couple more ok runners…more than I thought I’d get and 2 days in a row. Stock
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,197
2,908
113
California/Hawaii
Incredible surf this morning. Showed up and the spot had some morning sickness and looked like a huge closeout. Me and my buddy decided to chance it and go anyways. Got out and it was throwing DOH bomb closeouts. I was on my 6'4 4X and worried I couldn't get into a wave.

30 mins in the winds go variable and the swell backs off a tad. Waves turn on and the spot is now throwing 200 yard well overhead lefts with 3 people out. Took as many waves as I could before I had to get out and go to work. Sometimes the stars align and your session is the type you dream about.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
1,981
1,897
113
Innzid
Last two day couldn't have been more different.

Yesterday I stood on the rocks at 2nd point for 30min+, clutching my 7'6 and waiting for a lull to rock off. Relentless sets poured in, and I ended up throwing in the towel and surfing 1st point which is much easier to access. Still 2xOH, but nothing like what I missed out on.

This morning the swell was about 1/4 the size, and I had a cruisey little surf on my Mid Strength.