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***Official 2021 Community Surf Journal***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Way outta rythym after a couple weeks not surfing. Missed the swell this week. the main reef was packed with the pre-work crowd and the left was decent but I tried to force the inside right… and it really wasn’t happening. Took 10 min to get my first wave, and then only got a few warbly faces. Tried some different large quads in the 5’9 Mitsven quad fish. Felt off, think I need smaller rears. Oh well, still a beautiful sunny morning. Was cooking in my 3/3.
Got two good waves in the dark and at first light then it turned crappy. Rode the Moonfish. Maybe I need a great white shark boar instead.
it's been super crappy weather here for over a week so I haven't been able to surf. finally got out at the local today. still some lump and bump but the swell itself was decent. long interval ground swell. not big or even that super steep but powerful. like, even duckdiving a crumbly one would toss you around pretty good. rode the 7-2 gibbons twin just because it was such a big playing field and i just wanted to catch waves. it took a couple waves to get my mojo back but ended up doing pretty well. couple rights but mostly lefts. got a few backside carves that felt good. 'twas nice to have the big board. my homie was on his fish and he struggled to catch a few. super tricky conditions and not exactly an ego boosting session but it felt so good to get wet again. water is pretty warm and i went gloveless which was a nice bonus.
Some nugs but crowded af like shoulder to shoulder status.
felt good to be back on a hpsb thruster after a summer of stubby twins. forgot how much easier a proper cutback is with some rail and the ole trusty thrusty
felt good to be back on a hpsb thruster after a summer of stubby twins. forgot how much easier a proper cutback is with some rail and the ole trusty thrusty
Got to the beach around 1. Noriega to Rivera zone looked heavy. 8 feet at 16 seconds. Big, offshore, but disorganized and relentless. Waves capping on the outer outer bars every once in a while. Just one guy WAY out the back and another slipping out through an obvious rip. Thought the dude sitting out there was way too far out until 5 mintues later, he gets caught inside by a massive set. Decided no va.
Drove a couple blocks north where it looked more manageable. Chatted with an old timer who'd just come in while I was getting suited up. Riding a 9'0 Padillac, said it was heavier than it looks from the beach. Okay then. no obvious channel or rip so I just started paddling. Inside bars not too bad but the 65 yard line was brutal. Eventually broke into open water with that "I'm feel like I'm going to puke" feeling.
As soon as I got out, wind turned onshore. Lotta texture. Some obvious bars just south and north were dealing thick rights and lefts, some peaky and some sectioning into walls of death. First wave was a nice drop on a right that shouldered out. Second one, I was a little too deep and steep on a left. Got extended at the bottom and went over the handle bars. Luckily penetrated head first and popped out the back. Third, I got in early and drew a high line, pumping the 8'3 down the line until it walled up and I hopped over the back. Fourth was the third in the set. Steep drop going left, made it to the bottom and it was detonating a couple of feet just in front of me. Got low and beat the section. Big foamy pocket that kept grinding long enough for me to do some backside wraps and took me through the inside and all the way to the beach.
First "big" day of the year for me. Nice way to break the ice.
Drove a couple blocks north where it looked more manageable. Chatted with an old timer who'd just come in while I was getting suited up. Riding a 9'0 Padillac, said it was heavier than it looks from the beach. Okay then. no obvious channel or rip so I just started paddling. Inside bars not too bad but the 65 yard line was brutal. Eventually broke into open water with that "I'm feel like I'm going to puke" feeling.
As soon as I got out, wind turned onshore. Lotta texture. Some obvious bars just south and north were dealing thick rights and lefts, some peaky and some sectioning into walls of death. First wave was a nice drop on a right that shouldered out. Second one, I was a little too deep and steep on a left. Got extended at the bottom and went over the handle bars. Luckily penetrated head first and popped out the back. Third, I got in early and drew a high line, pumping the 8'3 down the line until it walled up and I hopped over the back. Fourth was the third in the set. Steep drop going left, made it to the bottom and it was detonating a couple of feet just in front of me. Got low and beat the section. Big foamy pocket that kept grinding long enough for me to do some backside wraps and took me through the inside and all the way to the beach.
First "big" day of the year for me. Nice way to break the ice.
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man that lon period reinforcement swell packed a punch. Paddled out and was immediately undergunned. packed a throaty square closeout barrel then went in for the mitsven stap.
mostly closed out but some good barrels and coverups with the odd tweener that allowed for turns. Shactober came late but with some force
mostly closed out but some good barrels and coverups with the odd tweener that allowed for turns. Shactober came late but with some force
saw someone out with what had to be a 7’ blackbird yesterday.
covid rhino chaser is the new theme of the winter.
covid rhino chaser is the new theme of the winter.
meant as a joke, probs a learner who armored up after getting their butt kicked last winter and believed the Surfline 6-8’ Forecast.
that shredshow guy claimed they make excellent mids, however.
fun rights at the kelpy reef today. first session out there this year I think. the spot is usually kind of mushy but what was left of that long interval swell was still packing some grunt. felt great to get the Plasmic in some lined up waves finally. the little thing was flying. stocked.
I think I might have been that one guy out the back yesterday blueingreen,
Yesterday:
Paddled out in the middle of the beach/sand dune area around noon. That area was super weird so went on a paddle down to ortega, then eventually hung around rivera. there were a few people out where I paddled out, but down the beach it was just me and that one SUP dude who surfs there on big days. Was weird and tricky -- they were either capping on a super outside bar, or were walled further inside, where if you caught one of those you were getting stuck inside of that bar. The playing field felt larger than normal for that size. Took me forever to get one legit left and a couple lil' corners. First day on the big board this year, nice to be out there.
Today:
Quick late afternoon surf, was foggy and didn't check it, just grabbed one board and went out, and found myself in dumpy lil chest high surf. felt kinda dumb being out there on my step up/good wave shortboard, so went in.
Yesterday:
Paddled out in the middle of the beach/sand dune area around noon. That area was super weird so went on a paddle down to ortega, then eventually hung around rivera. there were a few people out where I paddled out, but down the beach it was just me and that one SUP dude who surfs there on big days. Was weird and tricky -- they were either capping on a super outside bar, or were walled further inside, where if you caught one of those you were getting stuck inside of that bar. The playing field felt larger than normal for that size. Took me forever to get one legit left and a couple lil' corners. First day on the big board this year, nice to be out there.
Today:
Quick late afternoon surf, was foggy and didn't check it, just grabbed one board and went out, and found myself in dumpy lil chest high surf. felt kinda dumb being out there on my step up/good wave shortboard, so went in.
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sometimes i wish lived in a place where i could joke about 7-0's being ooooh soooo big
Solo sunset sesh at reef #2. There were 2 guys out but as I got out to the lineup, they went in. It was clean but kinda soft chest high wedges. Most pretty much missed the usual spot, rolled under me, and wouldn’t break til the inside. Got a few on the Townsend and managed a couple carves that felt pretty smooth whenever there was some rare open face. Water was warm in 2mil. Nice way to end a long work week, watching the sunset by myself.
SUP guy on a large one. Needed more than a 7'0 on this day.
^ that guy knows what he's doing. always used to think SUPs were exclusively for annoying fat guys at small pointbreaks
I remember why I used to rave about my gx.
she still fucks.
she still fucks.
Dawned the town regular. Jellyfish influx so got a 20 minute solo sesh. Rode the Striker and it felt loose and little slow after riding the Moonfish so much. Overturned on a couple of cutbacks but figured it out before everyone paddled out. Waves were weird but there were a couple of fun ones.
Forecast calls for a big NNW on Sunday and good conditions. Hopefully my NS regular isn’t maxing out. Probably will be.
Forecast calls for a big NNW on Sunday and good conditions. Hopefully my NS regular isn’t maxing out. Probably will be.
more boards I try, the more I realize when I get back on the stumps, they phuc