*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

enframed

Tom Curren status
Apr 11, 2006
11,639
6,431
113
Del Boca Vista, Phase III
Porto, 0900-1100, Stretch Quad. Fuckinell it was cold. Dude pulled up next to me with Santa Cruz plates, we agreed it was SC weather today out there. Caught a bunch of lefts and rights, one really good one with multiple turns and nice little floater landing.

One thing I have noticed surfing in LA is how many really good looking women surf here compared to Santa Cruz. Damn.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,580
6,117
113
SD
Way more fun than I expected. Got a ton of waves on my groveler in the first 30 minutes but had a few waves where I was really craving a lil more narrow and spicy. Switched for my GX and only got a handful but it was really fun. Looking forward to the rest of the week. All the regulars were so relieved it wasn't that crowded and was decent, really turned down the aggro factor.
 

Waterlogged05

Michael Peterson status
May 14, 2005
1,923
1,822
113
You ever have those days where everything goes wrong? It's like your body forgot how to surf?

Saturday was fun at local spot I usually avoid. usually a zoo there. Took the RNF out and absolutely kooked it. Wore a fullsuit becasue it was windy even though water was warm and felt like I was a Thanksgiving turkey in the oven.

Only good big section I had I dug rail on the bottom turn in front of everyone , then the groms lost confidence in me. I reassured them by getting a double leg cramp standing up on the set wave of the day for me.

But hey at least I got some cardio in w a stiff current
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,041
8,978
113
Central California
You ever have those days where everything goes wrong? It's like your body forgot how to surf?

Saturday was fun at local spot I usually avoid. usually a zoo there. Took the RNF out and absolutely kooked it. Wore a fullsuit becasue it was windy even though water was warm and felt like I was a Thanksgiving turkey in the oven.

Only good big section I had I dug rail on the bottom turn in front of everyone , then the groms lost confidence in me. I reassured them by getting a double leg cramp standing up on the set wave of the day for me.

But hey at least I got some cardio in w a stiff current
No.

I rip all the time, bro!

*see post #2170 for evidence of my rippage. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,508
113
PNW
Double leg cramp on the set of the day had me busting up @Waterlogged05 :roflmao:

Today had funky winds. My local looked like crap but everywhere else was even crappier. Saw a few corners and no one out so I figured why not. Took my time suiting up and stretching and by the time I got out there the winds had started to die off. Rode the Avocadobender twin fish. Ended up being a little bigger and more punchy than it looked. Got a few fun ones right off the bat and overall had a pretty decent session. Mostly chest high rights and a few smaller lefts that angled across the bar as I was paddling back out. Board felt great and I surfed alright. I had the foresight to bring hot water which I poured into my booties before the session which was really nice. 40F air and 50F water is lame.
 
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Woke AF

Tom Curren status
Jul 29, 2009
11,437
7,748
113
Southern Tip, Norcal
Solid surf today. Well overhead and kinda heavy. The paddle was a nightmare on the 1st go. Pushed back to the inside 3x's taking 2 blocks of lateral agony and was about to accept denial when I saw another outside set but low and behold she let me out. A couple of minutes of rest and a big left shifts right to me. Pull in for a short ride to getting dragged to the inside again:oops:

Belly in to walk 3 blocks north. Paddle straight out no issues:unsure: Sussed out the Parmy and she was magic once again. Big clean lefts and rights with some nice turns. Crowd was a nonissue as when the waves get a little consequential. All is good.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,508
113
PNW
at the local again. kind of garbled but the winds were off shore to start, fading to glass for the latter half of the session. chest high and fast. lightblender felt buttery. got some backhand turns that really stocked me out. just a few locals out for the early morning sesh. a few rando's showed up as we were unsuiting. they paddled out right as the south winds were kicking up and turning it all to sh1t. sometimes mother ocean has a good sense of humor.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,580
6,117
113
SD
Scored my favorite mediocre spot at the right tide with light winds this afternoon with just a buddy and a guy who wasn't catching anything. Lots of close outs but really nice shape when you found an open wave. Blew a couple barrels but hard to complain when I haven't seen the inside of one in a while. Got a few turns that felt good and surfline confirmed were pretty average, guess I'm going to have to re-think my QS campaign.
 

feralseppo

Billy Hamilton status
Feb 28, 2006
1,469
1,125
113
Got up before the crack of dawn hoping the peaks from yesterday morning at the usually closedout beach stuck around. No such luck. Drove from one end of the South Bay to the other. Nothing much worth getting wet for at CutNSnip’s Wavestorm Frenzy. Drove back to my local and decided to do some work before an 8 am work call and let the tide change. Waves got better while on the call and wanted to get off because there was less than 10 people out getting some fun ones and they were spread out across a wide stretch of sand.

By the time the call ended the sun was shining, the dolphins were jumping, the seagulls were diving and the waves were glassy and getting better. All that did was bring out WFH Larry and lots of little johnnies who were not on the home school program today.

I managed to clear out a nice sized Coronavirus free zone and then all the little Johnnies 000’d me for a bit. They played through and were on their way. Lots of close outs but some gems managed to hold their shape. 6’4” Kenson Twinzer egg goes good in anything like he says. Love the squirt off the bottom from the Twinzer setup
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
I got out pretty easy around 9:15. Rising swell, dropping tide. A couple of guys 50 yards north and few 50 yards to the south. Met a guy riding a square rail, bat tail board who told me he was on Facebook. I wonder if he knows about Instagram. Lined-up right, steep drop, off the bottom and up into a highline tight in the pocket for 30 yards. Speeed. Swell continued building, current was pulling hard south, dragging me into the best sandbars, and I started to feel pretty undergunned on the 7'0 Blackbird. Needed another 6 inches to a foot of board to avoid late drops and navigate the different bars. A solid left with some wall to carve, then I took an insider to the beach. Was in position for some hairy ones but was feeling pretty conservative due to my healing back. Went to the beach wanting another taste :( Gonna have to wait until Friday, but forecast says big and offshore.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,272
113
San Diego, CA
Drove 20 min south to check the reefs midday Tuesday. The two best spots were mobbed, so I opted for a little softer wave with only 4 guys out. Waist-high+ rights didn’t have a lot of push, but could get in a couple snaps, before cutting back and waiting for it reform and race along the inner reef. Beautiful conditions and glassy enough to squeeze into a couple quick coverups on the inside section. Stocked. Lovelace thumbtail twin (with his piggback fins) was a blast in these waves: smooth carves and loose without ever feeling like sliding out. Would be fun in a little more swell, chest-head high lined up surf... like all my boards, LOL
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,580
6,117
113
SD
Sounds like my quiver. The wave size sweet spot does not align with San Diego's average wave size lately.

Drove down to the beach for the tide switch, wind forecast was off and it was fairly closed out at the beach. Drove down to a couple reef spots and they didn't have enough juice to motivate me, but were nice and clean. Two days of good waves made me snobby. Hoping to score with the holiday hoards manana.
 

Maz

Michael Peterson status
May 18, 2004
3,041
4,550
113
Innzid
Interesting few days.

Massive onshore on Sunday. 50kts and 15ft. Didn't surf.
Monday down to 6ft+ (2xOH) and heavy. Got 3 waves on my 7'6 gun, then very nearly drowned when leash snagged on a rock.
Tuesday surfed the same spot, waist to head high, glassy, sunny, warm. 5'10 Astro.
Wednesday micro longboard fun. Knee high and super short, but kind of bowly.
Today had a rare NW groundswell on west coast. HH/OH right point with perfect glass. 6'1 shorty.

Variety, aye!