*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[Havoc]

fun as fk today in the stressles complex. super crowded early like 50+ ppl out in a concentrated takeoff zone. opted to ride the 6'6 parmy stubb vector due to offshore wind and lots of ppl. nabbed a bunch of waves and crowd settled down to 25-30 ppl so was able to get even more waves. lots of carves and couple of hits. got a couple bomb sets too. worked on positioning more and was gliding into waves with only 2 paddles toward the end of the sesh. swear it is gonna be impossible to ride a shortboard for a long while with the obscene crowds these days. water was 57 degrees, air was 47 when i got there. 3.5 hours and got out bc i couldnt paddle anymore. stocked!

 

[Mr Doof]

Read Woke AF's post from yesterday first.

Then this report:

Smaller than yesterday, maybe cleaner, winds a little more offshore as well, same southbound current, more people as well, shorter rides, easier to get back outside after each one. Fun times but makes me think how 'meh' October was.

 

[Aruka]

Same spot as last night. Lil bigger n more consistent. Rode the Loot as a quad for the first time. Felt alright. Got some lefts and rights. Mostly just one hitters. Water felt like it finally warmed up a hair.

 

[Havoc]

fun small inconsistent. first 45 mins had a peak to myself albeit long waits for waist to stomach high wavez. rode the 5'9 stamps fusebox and man that boar is so freaking fun! couple slashes and some of the best end section reos i've done in a looong time. boar wants to go vert so fast. thanks again retodd for the suggestion. keeper! crowd got thick so i grabbed the parmy for another half dozen mediocre waves and called it a day. crowd was somewhat behaved for the most part. sat with a 3 pack 2 duus on shortboards and a girl on a longboar. we just traded waves the entire session. cool people make the session that much better. the hoards were descending as i left to battle for 1-2+ weak inconsistent crowded peaks lolz. pray for surge!

 

[doc_flavonoid]

water finally cooled off. crystal clear. clean. 51-52ish. feels so good

 

[enframed]

Malibu, 1030 hrs, 8' Brom Twin, 1ft and glassy. Caught 4 waves in 30 minutes. Hadn't surfed in almost a week and was itching. Hung out on the inside of 1st point and got 4 racy little 1 footers then got out and headed to Topanga to drop off some wine samples.

Oh yeah, the water was fucking cold, like Santa Cruz cold.

 

[Havoc]

water finally cooled off. crystal clear. clean. 51-52ish. feels so good

water was 55 in oc today. air 51

 

[Aruka]

Surfed my fav South wind spot this evening. Well, it was like 3pm but with the overcast and short days it felt like evening. Smth Drive Thru FTW. It looked a little mushy from the check spot but as I was walking down the trail I saw a guy catch one and it looked a lot better than I'd expected. I paddled out the channel to join the 3 guys who are all from the next town down the coast. A little wedge popped up and the most inside guy was paddling for it but I could tell he was too far out so I spun and took it. He made a frustrated sound as I was dropping in. Got a snap and a wrap and then paddled back out. Dude had an angry face on and I was like oh here we go. I paddled right up to him and he started bitching about me taking the wave. I was like, you were too far out, you didn't catch it...He didn't even deny that he wasn't going to catch it but he was still upset and he was like who are you. I told him my name and then he was like ohhhhh. I could tell he knew who I was. I asked who he was and he told me his name and I kinda laughed because I totally knew this guy by reputation. He's the notorious local from the town like 30 min south of where I live. I know we've surfed together before but had never really met or had an incident. He didn't look that scary and I've been surfing this spot for ages so I wasn't about to cower. He didn't seem like he wanted to take it further and a set came so I paddled wide and snagged a wave. We surfed for another 20 min without incident. There was one time where I was pretty deep and late on one and I thought he was going to drop in on the shoulder but he didn't. It was one of my better waves of the session. Finally we ended up out the back next to each other between sets and he asked what I was riding and we ended up talking surfboards for a bit (he was on a SuperBuzz and surfing it well). He apologized for getting hot with me, said he didn't realize who I was. I said no worries I and joked that this spot was contested territory being exactly halfway between our towns. He laughed but I think he understood that there was some truth to it. The session went smoothly after that. We took turns and I think I got the better of the rotation, usually ending up on the 2nd wave of the set. Board felt good and I think I surfed well.

 

[urchined]

Surfed my fav South wind spot this evening. Well, it was like 3pm but with the overcast and short days it felt like evening. Smth Drive Thru FTW. It looked a little mushy from the check spot but as I was walking down the trail I saw a guy catch one and it looked a lot better than I'd expected. I paddled out the channel to join the 3 guys who are all from the next town down the coast. A little wedge popped up and the most inside guy was paddling for it but I could tell he was too far out so I spun and took it. He made a frustrated sound as I was dropping in. Got a snap and a wrap and then paddled back out. Dude had an angry face on and I was like oh here we go. I paddled right up to him and he started bitching about me taking the wave. I was like, you were too far out, you didn't catch it...He didn't even deny that he wasn't going to catch it but he was still upset and he was like who are you. I told him my name and then he was like ohhhhh. I could tell he knew who I was. I asked who he was and he told me his name and I kinda laughed because I totally knew this guy by reputation. He's the notorious local from the town like 30 min south of where I live. I know we've surfed together before but had never really met or had an incident. He didn't look that scary and I've been surfing this spot for ages so I wasn't about to cower. He didn't seem like he wanted to take it further and a set came so I paddled wide and snagged a wave. We surfed for another 20 min without incident. There was one time where I was pretty deep and late on one and I thought he was going to drop in on the shoulder but he didn't. It was one of my better waves of the session. Finally we ended up out the back next to each other between sets and he asked what I was riding and we ended up talking surfboards for a bit (he was on a SuperBuzz and surfing it well). He apologized for getting hot with me, said he didn't realize who I was. I said no worries I and joked that this spot was contested territory being exactly halfway between our towns. He laughed but I think he understood that there was some truth to it. The session went smoothly after that. We took turns and I think I got the better of the rotation, usually ending up on the 2nd wave of the set. Board felt good and I think I surfed well.

Oregon reminds me of the CA I grew up in that is now long gone. Edge to the lineups is good. For a lot of reasons. Think what it would do to the vulnerable adult learners fuks now.......it would help them too. They would be forced to surf where no one is and actually learn etiquette and basic skills.

 

[Aruka]

Oregon reminds me of the CA I grew up in that is now long gone. Edge to the lineups is good. For a lot of reasons. Think what it would do to the vulnerable adult learners fuks now.......it would help them too. They would be forced to surf where no one is and actually learn etiquette and basic skills.

Some places in OR are totally over now too. The north coast with the Portland influx is totally overrun. Honestly my area in the summer, especially this summer, is beyond any sort of regulation. The adult learners come in groups of 3+. The #vanlifers live in the parking lots and get pissy when you park in your regular spot which blocks their view. Drones hovering over as you wait for a waist high mushburger. Kill me now. Some of the long time locals can't even surf without having a meltdown. I have anxiety about it but it only ruins my session to get upset. A calm word or two is usually more effective anyways. It wasn't that long ago that there was some order and if you wanted to join the rotation you came alone, waited your turn, etc. Now that sort of behavior is the exception, not the rule.

 

[npsp]

Body surfed super fun wind swell in tropical paradise just before sunset. Had front row seats to some good tube riding. Wish I had a camera..... Great evening!

 

[bluengreen]

Surfed the bigger part of the beach on a 7'6 Monday. Double overhead and heaving on sets. Lot of people were further north trying rip the smaller peak. I'm still cruising while recovering from the back injury, so I enjoyed just taking drops and getting down the line.

Thursday exceeded Surfline's 3-4 foot forecast by a lot. Got there before the after work crowd. Set after set of overhead rights that were a little crumbly but lining up all the way through the inside bar. Rode my 6'0 Hess Traveler. Board goes good in anything waist high to overhead. Was feeling good, so cranked some committed bottom and top turns without trying anything too explosive. Back to basics: speed and g's. Stocked!

 

[doc_flavonoid]

Oregon reminds me of the CA I grew up in that is now long gone. Edge to the lineups is good. For a lot of reasons. Think what it would do to the vulnerable adult learners fuks now.......it would help them too. They would be forced to surf where no one is and actually learn etiquette and basic skills.

for the most part norcal fall winter and spring still belong to the local crews. theres a mutual respect in the water and if someone gets over-excited and kooks it, acknowledgement and apologies happen pretty fast so everyone can move beyond it.

a little accountability is easy when everyones on a name or at least face basis. nobody who plans on sticking around a while is going to want to be THAT guy.

summertime and the more traffic'd spots are done. theyve taken on a siege mentality with the locs. its easy to get waves off the learners, the burners and the kooks but its mentally exhausting and guys are over it.

 

[CutnSnip]

Really fun this morning in SLA despite the gnarly high tide and a little backwash. Found a bar with some chest runners squeeking through close to shore and the Spegg was the perfect call.Teeny bit of offshore's kept things nice and glassy depsite the lumpy swell. Probably got like 30 waves in an hour and a half, highlight being a left that ran for bout 100 yards with a nice stretched out wall that ended with a little vert bash off the closeout section onto the sand.

Crowds seemed to have go back to pre covid levels, thank god. The cold air must've scared alot of people away but the water felt pretty good. Wore the ripcurl dp 4/3 for the first time this season and it def felt warm enough but I was moving around alot so well see how it goes on a slower day. Pretty flexible - doesnt feel much heavier or constrictive than my 3/2 so thats good.

Not a bad way to kick the weekend off. Keeping an eye on it for session numero dos.

 

[Brsnstein]

Waited for the tide to drop for some fun beach break combo swell. Kinda jumbled to start, but there was a good 30 min where the tide had dropped enough before the wind and rips took over. Rode the blindspot with the new Jordy mediums and they felt great. A little looser up front than the am1, but the extra area on the back of the center fin seems to stabilize and make up any drive lost from the fronts. I think they’ll be perfect on my scarecrow with its narrower tail

 

[20W-50 and blood]

45 minute bodysurf session. highlight wave was a dry little deep green vortex of goodness...fully pitted, laid out, blown out, the goods.

 

[000]

decided to try today
so i went to a spot i have a "secret parking lot" and surfed a "no mans land" cuz nobody ever surfs there
well it aint a secret anymore, all the kooks know now
paddled out to an empty lineup
5 minutes later the first of 7 followers
the waves were ok
fun since i was desperate

would u feel stupid if a movie theater was empty except for 1 guy, and u sat next to him?

 

[MathDebater]

I always pick the urinal closest to the next duu. If someone else is using it that's how I know it's good.

Waited for the tide to drop and surfed my usual with the hordes. So many learners, it felt like summer. Cool temps didn't stop them. Still got a few okay ones.

 

[PRCD]

I always pick the urinal closest to the next duu. If someone else is using it that's how I know it's good.

Waited for the tide to drop and surfed my usual with the hordes. So many learners, it felt like summer. Cool temps didn't stop them. Still got a few okay ones.

There's so many of them I don't think they're getting any waves because they're in each-other's way. I think this will run its course:

 

[b.r.]

spent the week switching between small days on the 9'4 kenson longboard and a couple fun days on the 5'10 Kenson PP quad. One memorable mid day session at the point with only a few guys sitting inside and getting 100 yard long rights one after the other for an hour before the masses figured out the wind had laid down. one longboard sesssion down the street from my house was glassy and perfect, caught so many waves in 2 hours it was non stop little peaks.