Finally got out to the beach with the family around noon. 1-2' with a couple 3' sets. Water was warm but otherwise cold, windy, choppy, dumpy, with rips running everywhere, mostly the kind that hold you in place rather than pulling you anywhere. Glad we had the beach shelter tent. Daughter had a rough time of it, hesitant to turn around and go, and instead stood there and got slammed quite a few times. I told her it builds character so the good days are that much better.
I didn't do much better than her.
With all that chop (both wind and rip), using the SD with tiny fins was unwise. Should have used the thicker Senate which is like a meat cleaver compared to a scalpel. Got a few turns in between the dozen or so waves I caught but mostly a lot of hard slams when fins disengaged with the chop. Shallow too, hit the bottom more than once. Very challenging conditions. And I don't know WHAT the Wavestormers out there were thinking as none of them could even stand up and were just getting ruthlessly tossed. Foolish IMO because with how waves were breaking, the kind of days where it is really easy to get hurt.