Walked the beach with the groms this afternoon...packed!! With record high inland temps coming, good luck with parking this weekend!
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Dawned the regular. Little bigger than yesterday but lully and high tide. Rode the HIC Mojo cause I like shred. The board feels fast and I got on rail on a couple of nuggets but the high tide in the morning is softening what is a good direction for my regular. Hope it gets a tad bigger so the tide won’t kill it.
desperation bar. paddled just to get wet but the crowd was just too fvcking gnarly. two waves and in.
Holy hell it got crowded fast but with the exception of a couple guys (one of who paddled right out and into wave of the day - the bastard haha), not many were catching waves.
Started out really poor, knee to waist high, morning sickness, dumpy, horrible. But gradually started to clean up with some sluggish right lines and, well still dumpy lefts. But there was a nice rip making the lefts stand up and peak in one spot but very hard to stay on top of it with current pulling you off. Best wave I got was probably shoulder high set, pigdogged under lip off takeoff, accelerated out of that into a little bit of a roundhouse cutback although wave petered out right as I was rebounding off whitewash - alas. Considering how day started, I'll take that. Went in shortly after.
At least I have to say it was consistent. Probably got 35-40 waves (significant amount which were terrible) in the couple hours while I was out, couple different stretches where got 4 waves within a couple minutes, all of them lining up more or less, get some cardio in.
Started out really poor, knee to waist high, morning sickness, dumpy, horrible. But gradually started to clean up with some sluggish right lines and, well still dumpy lefts. But there was a nice rip making the lefts stand up and peak in one spot but very hard to stay on top of it with current pulling you off. Best wave I got was probably shoulder high set, pigdogged under lip off takeoff, accelerated out of that into a little bit of a roundhouse cutback although wave petered out right as I was rebounding off whitewash - alas. Considering how day started, I'll take that. Went in shortly after.
At least I have to say it was consistent. Probably got 35-40 waves (significant amount which were terrible) in the couple hours while I was out, couple different stretches where got 4 waves within a couple minutes, all of them lining up more or less, get some cardio in.
been getting in at least an hour every day this week for sanity purposes, yesterday was so glassy, warm, and clean. The most perfect conditions minus a big swell, still got a ton of waves on the kenson 9'4 surfing with friends. a pack of visitors were on the peak but myself and a few regulars paddled out and sorted things out real quick with everyone taking turns, gonna jump in and out of the pool all day and maybe head down to the local for a paddle but maybe not, this weekend is always a nice turning point around here with better times coming
Quick DP, got a few fun ones . The kazuma fish kept things high performance. Not much of a crowd in the water but I have never seen the shore so busy at dawn .
Holidays and heatwave = roflmao
Holidays and heatwave = roflmao
Some fun ones at dawn in NOC, nothing to write home about but great to get in the water without a massive crowd. Will say it was a bit nippy again. Maybe chest high+ on the inconsistent sets and getting better as the tide came up a bit. For the hour I surfed I probably got like 20 waves or so, some duds but a bunch of rights that lined up and connected to the inside for nice speed runs to closeout bash's with one failed straight air attempt that made me feel like a kid again.
Crowd started to fill in, back was getting sore so I bailed before the zoo arrived. Hope no one was headed to Bolsa Chica today - the line was about a mile long before the sun was even up. RVs, Teslas and Beemers galore all strapped with wavestorms and boogieboards. Going to be a sh!t show along the coast this weekend. Get it early and GTFO.
Crowd started to fill in, back was getting sore so I bailed before the zoo arrived. Hope no one was headed to Bolsa Chica today - the line was about a mile long before the sun was even up. RVs, Teslas and Beemers galore all strapped with wavestorms and boogieboards. Going to be a sh!t show along the coast this weekend. Get it early and GTFO.
Got out just after sunrise and like many have already sad, it was definitely wonky, but got better as the tide filled in. Had the best roundhouse I’ve had in a while
Pretty meager, micro lb waves at a different stretch than the norm this am.
Was able to connect quite a few on the 9'3" HPTC through the fat section to the shorebreak
reform, but really pretty poor shape. Beach was hopping before 8:30...can't imagine what it's
like right now.
Was able to connect quite a few on the 9'3" HPTC through the fat section to the shorebreak
reform, but really pretty poor shape. Beach was hopping before 8:30...can't imagine what it's
like right now.
you know what was better than surfing today? drinking beer and swimming off my boat with my kids! Happy Labor day mo fo's!
Dawned the regular. Waves were good but slow. I had a shocker. The worst I surfed on good waves in a while. If I saw how I was surfing I’d burn myself. Don’t want to talk or think about it anymore. Haha.
Saw Neal/Sponge out. I think he got some good shots cause there were a lot of rippers out. Try again tomorrow.
Saw Neal/Sponge out. I think he got some good shots cause there were a lot of rippers out. Try again tomorrow.
picked upa case of hatch chile.....realized my GF is wack....surfed....got drunk....just wokeup. 5/6 aint bad!
Surprisingly fun this morning. A hair smaller, but cleaner, less crowded, and the crowd was mostly of the buoy variety. Rights were generally good for a quick hit on the incoming section or pump and wrap if they shouldered off. Lefts tended to run a little more. Backwash got me mid pop up a couple times to keep things interesting
I was tempted to dust off the gx to mix things up a bit, but ended up back on the giggle box. 3/2 was overkill with the blazing sun
I was tempted to dust off the gx to mix things up a bit, but ended up back on the giggle box. 3/2 was overkill with the blazing sun
Got a little redemption today. Waves were still head high plus, conditions were smoother but lully. The positive was the crowd from yesterday must’ve got frustrated so it was just the regular dawn patrol crew. Rode the green Tokoro X2 and got some fun ones. Got a long barrel that clamped kinda hard on my shoulder but felt good to travel that far I didn’t release my shoulder was sore until the amp wore off.
Best wave was Uncle Byron and Gregg we’re paddling for a chip in. I paddled in front of Gregg to block for Byron but Byron couldn’t get it and everyone’s laughing telling Gregg to push me in. I had stopped paddling cause I thought for sure Gregg got it when I felt I hard shove on my foot. Saw Kai Boy on the shoulder with a confused look on his face like how did T get that one. Kai pulled back but made a nice section of coping. I bottom turned and hit it with speed from Greggs push. Blew fins out and made it back down. Jordan caught the next wave and kicked out by me and said that turn was sick and the whole crew were wondering if I made that turn until they saw me ride out.
Gregg got me back at the end. Uncle Lance told me to go on a set and Gregg paddled in front of me and said f*ck that I’m going. Haha.
Best wave was Uncle Byron and Gregg we’re paddling for a chip in. I paddled in front of Gregg to block for Byron but Byron couldn’t get it and everyone’s laughing telling Gregg to push me in. I had stopped paddling cause I thought for sure Gregg got it when I felt I hard shove on my foot. Saw Kai Boy on the shoulder with a confused look on his face like how did T get that one. Kai pulled back but made a nice section of coping. I bottom turned and hit it with speed from Greggs push. Blew fins out and made it back down. Jordan caught the next wave and kicked out by me and said that turn was sick and the whole crew were wondering if I made that turn until they saw me ride out.
Gregg got me back at the end. Uncle Lance told me to go on a set and Gregg paddled in front of me and said f*ck that I’m going. Haha.
i did not find much coping today. decently sized crumbly windswell that mostly either mushed or closed out. water was clear and not terribly cold. sunny and calm. the Lightbender felt good on the few waves that walled up. got a few turns and and lot of exercise so I can't complain. i hope the tourists bail soon. getting tired of piles of human crap alongside every gravel pullout and beach trail. i guess i can still complain!
Crowded like Labor Day weekend.
Wait, it is Labor Day.
a few nugs in the fog.
Happy Labor Day boys!
Wait, it is Labor Day.
a few nugs in the fog.
Happy Labor Day boys!
Dawned the regular on the Vesso Love Seat. Waves dropped a lot from yesterday. The dawn patrol got short changed on this swell. Looked a lot better in the afternoon. Did manage to get a nugget and went out of my way to spray Gregg. Haha.
Nice thing happened. Gregg’s niece was out it’s her 15th birthday. He told me it’s Summers birthday can she get a set. But she was kind of shy and stayed inside. Lance comes out and I point her out and tell him it’s her bday would you get her a set. Without missing a beat he goes of course. I get a wave and paddle up to Gregg and tell him. He tells Summer if Uncle Lance say you can go you should take it. Not minute goes by and a set rolls in and the whole lineup is cheering her into the wave. She’s a little late and falls but she sent it. The lineup half laughs half cheers and wishes her a Happy Birthday.
Nice thing happened. Gregg’s niece was out it’s her 15th birthday. He told me it’s Summers birthday can she get a set. But she was kind of shy and stayed inside. Lance comes out and I point her out and tell him it’s her bday would you get her a set. Without missing a beat he goes of course. I get a wave and paddle up to Gregg and tell him. He tells Summer if Uncle Lance say you can go you should take it. Not minute goes by and a set rolls in and the whole lineup is cheering her into the wave. She’s a little late and falls but she sent it. The lineup half laughs half cheers and wishes her a Happy Birthday.
No wind at my house, but was whipping from the SW when I got to the beach.
Horrible surf, but needed water time and exercise so I paddled out in the dark.
After lots of hunting around, managed one sorta-close-to-decent left that ran a ways
with a little end section smack. Spent the next 45 minutes paddling back and forth
in an attempt to find something else that would break, but not close out, and managed
one more terrible wave to belly in on. Ugh.
Horrible surf, but needed water time and exercise so I paddled out in the dark.
After lots of hunting around, managed one sorta-close-to-decent left that ran a ways
with a little end section smack. Spent the next 45 minutes paddling back and forth
in an attempt to find something else that would break, but not close out, and managed
one more terrible wave to belly in on. Ugh.
First surf in over a week. Had meetings with contractors all morning and couldn't get out til midday: peak 4.6 high tide and 10mph S wind. Lumpy, bumpy, but with chest high sets. Lots of water moving around and some speed bumps and warbles to navigate. Only caught about 4 waves in 20 mins, but nice to feel the sensation of an actual drop-in after the run of flat surf. Couldn't wait any longer and finally took the Tomo X-wing groveler out for a spin.Thing is faaassst! Was able to outrun some crumbly sections, and that wide 3-pointed tail was soo easy to whip around on snaps. Gonna be a fun one for soft waves and I'll probably ride it mostly waist-high and under. Tried it as a quad with older FW red/black futures fins (fairly upright) and was good but will probably try a rakier fin next. Stocked again!
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