*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[oeste858]

Made the arduous journey north (of the pier) for a quick 30 min of mid-tide windswell. Must’ve had some good karma going cause I found a parking spot next to the stairs. Surprisingly punchy with some steep sections and messy closeout barrels to pull into. the XTR GMM2 handled it like a champ: late drops, carves, high line speed runs, BS snaps, floats, closeout reos.
See? This is why I can’t bring myself to sell boards I don’t even ride that much. I jump back on one, and I’m blown away again! Boardhoarding is NOT a crime!

 

[obslop]

cleanish early with a light crowd; caught a few and had some fun waves with the best being some lefts that allowed for fast open faced carves.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Sames spot, more swell but worse. Still nice to be in the water. Mostly meh but I got a bomb right that hit the bar right and I got a nice carve to snap to closeout hack that felt good.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls the last couple days. It’s been kinda funky but got better later in the day, way after I left. Today was good right from before daylight.

Some guy tried to sit on top of the regulars and go on the first bump. I burned him. He went around me and kicked out as I was bottom turning to hit the lip, I rode the rest of the wave all the way to the inside. I was waiting to see if he would say anything but as it got lighter I could see it was a kid with a mustache. He tried to do it again and one of the other regulars faded him. He sat inside and got some nuggets. I don’t understand high schoolers trying to flex on the regular dawn patrol at a place like Bowls. A lot of us look old and decrepit but we can still surf circles around most kids.

Toward the end of my session I saw that Ronnie Boy was a little deep on a bomb. I turned to back him up and he told me to go. Got a roll in and did a kick stall. Saw the lip wasn’t going to hit me so a stuck my hand in the face and got a quick stand up tube. Saw Gregg who got the wave before watching and I gave him the double bird.

He told me I would have to watch his wave in the rewind to see mine. Then he sent a clip of it and right where my wave threw over he edited it with his hairy chin. It looked like a ball sack at first glance. He sent it to our FS group. It was a good prank. Haha. Found my unedited ride on the rewind cam and it was pretty quick. It felt a lot better than it looked on video.

More swell on the way.

 

[obslop]

more flukey wind and the swell definitely on the fade. couple turns but not much going on.

 

[griffinsurfboard]

"My" Beach , nice day - no one out

There's 2 - 15 year old kids up my street who surf at pro level . I will take some pics with my new gear soon .

 

[jkb]

View attachment 93035View attachment 93036


"My" Beach , nice day - no out

There's 2 - 15 year old kids up my street who surf at pro level . I will take some pics with my new gear soon .

Did you make those waves your bitch Greg?

 

[JDJ]

Too crowded, Greg.

 

[griffinsurfboard]

Too crowded, Greg.

Needs lots of Kelp and a Sewer outlet nearby ;--)

 

[Havoc]

more fun today. couple bigger ones on the sets. south wind scurrred everbody away and it mellowed out mid sesh. good times on the parmy stubb vector but i want st smaller to do sum tiger sheds. fling or fuse box next sesh. stoke meter full!

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls riding my Tokoro X2 with the magic fins. Waves were super fun. A little over head on some sets with flurries and lulls. Typical south swell moodiness.

Lots of rippers out. Heavy hitters in a crowded lineup. Saw Bam Bacalso out. Kekoa is a FCS rep so I showed him I was riding the h4’s and loving them. He said that they are so in demand he hasn’t even gotten a promo set to try. On my last wave in I got a nugget and got a few turns in. My friend said Bam was paddling out watching me and started yelling “h4, h4, OK, I’m listening now!” I heard some random cheering but couldn’t make out what he was yelling. Selling the h4’s to the FCS rep. Hahaha.

 

[obslop]

clean and organized for a change. def. on the small side but had some fun lefts with turns and a few sections to hit. highlight was a fins out off the lip on a small closeout left that i actually cleanly made. i'm claiming an old man point on that one.

 

[000]

yesterday was bigger but windy and 20 giuys out. some decent waves
but today was smaller and glassy with nobody to bother me and i had a good time, getting some 4-5 move waves on the butterknife

 

[casa_mugrienta]

Trestles today w/ Slaten, Adriano, Kolohe.

Slates gave me a pat on the bum through my bottom turn.

On the way back out AIDS try to convey some sort of tip regarding my back arm on my forehand.

Salsa was there too (of course) and I asked hime when he's planning to do a review in some real waves and why still no Gregg Griffin review

 

[need 4 speed]

waist to shoulder nuggets of goodness, a few in/out cover up barrels at kentoland,
super clean light offshore ,felt great to make a couple solid turns and feel like I do remember how to surf.
6-3 twinzer

 

[teeroi]

Dawned my regular south shore spot. It was smaller than the last couple of days. Got a nice running barrel to start off with but I felt it chandler on me so I tried to bust through but my friend said I should’ve stayed tucked and could’ve come out. I stand up too early way too often. Sometimes I bust through sometimes I get lipped. Got a couple of turns that felt good. More swell coming.

Got a shot from a couple days ago. Ayman was swimming around and I got my quick stand up barrel. I paddled up and asked if he got that tube. He mumbled something and I told him you’re fired. Haha. He said he’s going to check cause he shot a few others of me. One of the groms tagged me so I got to see it.

http://instagr.am/p/CBoC7m3BAOA/

 

[oeste858]

Great shot! that one of me would be up on my wall so fast.

Met up with my buddy at a So SD County jetty mid-morning, sadly just after the wind really came up. Low expectations for some thigh-high windslop, but I found some runners inside of the main pack of 7 dudes- mostly older locals (not great surfers and more than one gray-haired ponytail), one younger guy on a log (no leash) that lost his board every other wave, while a guy on a rusty groveler or fish got all the best lined up rights that looked fun. Still on the GMM2 in the lackluster surf all week, and it did all it could out there. 10-15 quick rights with 2-3 pumps or a snap and then a floater or closeout reo. Surprisingly good time. Stopped by South Coast closeout store and scored a FCS double flight bag for $100 (new but discontinued), and some sparkly silver sandals for my 3 yr old daughter. Stocked. Then, perhaps inspired by the aforementioned shredder on the Rusty, I drove over to their warehouse sale and snagged a clean new PU Smoothie, which should be fun for summer. Pretty, pretty good day.

 

[obslop]

one hit closeouts. somehow found a closeout backside barrel and landed an air drop into the flats after an off the lip on my last wave which was by far the best wave that came in the entire session. yew.

 

[teeroi]

Dawned my south shore regular. Bounced off the reef on a closeout barrel. Paddled for a wave next to my friend Jerome and got my leg tangled in his leash. He fell and his board got dragged stretching the leash over my calf. He came up with his 6 foot leash stretched to 20 feet. The crew were laughing until they saw I was in pain. It hurt but was kinda like a stinger, lots of pain at first then it went away. I told the guys I bounced got caught by Jerome’s leash. I better get a barrel.

After the pain went away I waited for a bomb. Some random tried to take off deep and hoot me off. But I got a roll in, stalled and got a pretty good barrel. After I kicked out I yelled at the random don’t worry we’ll take care of those. The crew burned him and his friends relentlessly until they left. It’s stupid. There’s this guy that surfs my NS regular I told him I’d get him a set but he said that’s ok. He just sat inside and ripped the bags off the smaller nuggets. Meanwhile 3-4 donkeys try to sit outside and deeper than the regulars and hoot us off. Upside down world. Keoni got a bunch of fun ones and the respect of the dawn patrol. While the donkeys outside got faded and yelled at.

 

[Kento]

Well, I guess the Shangri-la of the week before had to come to an end. Midweek was pretty much sh*t so didn't bother. Waist to chest high today with some shoulder high sets. West wind was on it by 6:30 AM so it was pretty much a junk surf sesh but I did get a few of the better waves to come in, one of which was a nice left where I sat in the pocket with it semi-barreling before doing a poor turn and then going over the top. For some reason, just felt flatfooted all day. My attempt at a roundhouse cutback with minimal speed on a flat-faced windchop wave that resulted in rail giving me a dead leg right in the sweet spot on the thigh was particularly inspiring. Could probably blame it on the windslop conditions or fact I'm riding a semi-stepup in mediocre conditions but really, just felt like I was surfing slowish. Oh well.

Regardless, got a few dozen waves or so in the 3+ hours I was out. Crowd ebbed and flowed but there was never an issue where I had to battle for a wave in the slightest. So that was kind of nice. Also entertaining watching the beginners on the inside getting swept hard by current.