Another super fun day and I've been getting in a pretty decent rhythm as a result. Did the family beach day thing, got there around 9:30 or so with tide dropping and wind sickness just beginning to go away. Crowded as hell but they all left when the tide bottomed out and it turned to sheet glass. That was very convenient.
Still surfing my battered 6'6" Senate. Have had that board over 10 years now and it is still holding up. One of these days will get a new, less volume 6'6" and will feel like butter by comparison but until then, surfing that board into the ground. Waves were shoulder high to a foot overhead or so. Wind from last night created a bunch of wedgy lefts with a couple right lines but the lefts were where it was at again. Barrels with the occasional lip to crush or slash depending on how you approached the bottom turn. Was out about 2.5 hours, got about 30-40 waves or so. Very satisfied and chilling right now as Wave N Babes could only approve of.
Kicking myself though over one wave I threw myself over the ledge on. Was a perfect guttering left draining hard off the rip. Grab rail off the drop, straight down into the barrel, pull up, get spat out. Simple enough. Been sticking those all week (maybe not as much on Tuesday), got complacent. So busy admiring the view I already had that I didn't quite unweight my front foot enough and pearled to my eyebrows, eyes never leaving the exit out of that barrel even as I got tossed over the falls. Might as well keep the view as long as you have it. Kinda shaking my head paddling back out, another guy out there said, "Damn, I give you props for even going. I wanted no part of that." So I guess there was that consolation. Didn't take long to redeem myself luckily.
