*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[jkb]

Everything lined up for me yesterday morning. Wife was working the night shift, but got off early........which luckily gave me the opportunity to dawn patrol.

Combo swell of 6ft from the S and 6ft from the NW converged at my usual with the perfect tide and it was sheet glass to boot. 3 people paddled out ahead of me, but they were enamored with the left and I was happy to surf the right by myself.

First wave stood straight up with a beautiful shoulder that bent into itself. Took off behind the peak, got sling-shot into the shoulder, and did a big roundhouse. Rebounded off the whitewater, had a couple of pumps, and exited with a big smile on my face. I could tell this was going to be pretty epic.

Continued to get really fun rides throughout the morning. Tons of hits, rebounds, speed runs, ect.... A few people filtered in, but they all seemed to be from out of town and didn't have a good read on the place. Rode the HS Untitled and felt like I could do no wrong. Just one of those magical sessions where the waves and your abilities come together to make the most out of it.

Stocked!

 

[silentbutdeadly]

my buddy really likes that board.

 

[000]

its june andd ive been cold in my best fullsuit
its been mostly closeouts with board breaking force
was praying for 1 good wave so i could split, as the tards descended upon me
and i got a big wedging double up peak late drop to tube which i was happy to make it out of
bye

 

[obslop]

notch better once more.

many would break and die out but some offered a reform section or hit. had fun.

 

[kidfury]

Took off on one today and noticed Noel Salas behind me. I was on the wave very briefly, didn't interfere with him. I thought, "Hey, that's that guy, from the videos!" Caught a few other good ones

 

[bluengreen]

Kinda pumping Sat. during a short window of offshores and dropping tide. Some solid DOH set waves coming through but super shifty and fast (i.e. mostly closing out). Got a couple turns in, packed a couple of closeout barrels, and got caught behind a couple of sections. 6'8 was getting a repair so I was a little undergunned. Video is not me, just an example of what it was like.

Solo sesh at sunset on Monday night on the 5'4 STPNK. Fun high-tide Kelly's. Not sure why there was no one out, but I'll take it.

 

[Havoc]

someone that lives right on that beach said theyve been seeing 12' hammerheads

it did look like this fin View attachment 92073

u prly just saw a salmon shark. u got 000’d by a fish lolz

 

[silentbutdeadly]

may have just been a surflie fluke but today I learned that 2-3 ft and fair has a much different meaning in Ventura than the same in san diego

 

[obslop]

sloppy dog surf

oceanslide kindly let me borrow his split keel quads to try out in my grovel shortboard. i figure the extra hold will balance out the flat tail rocker and allow for more committed carves. showed some promise but these waves were pretty crap so it was kinda hard to tell.

 

[oeste858]

Fun at local reef as the morning tide started backing off. Only 10 out. Some of the 2-4’ wedges would even line up sections all the way in. Also, lot of energy on the inside ledge even when small... ask me how I know. LOL. Didnt quite manage to pull in under the lip and went through the spin cycle and barely missed the reef underwater. Still having a blast on 5’6 Mandala superchunk with Tyler Warren quads, perfect for the skatepark out there today. Beautiful 75F sunny day. Light wind.

 

[teeroi]

Got to try my 6’4 HIC Kerry Tokoro M7 at Big Bowl. Waves were well overhead but lot of south which isn’t ideal. A little more west and it would be tube town. Being riding the h4 the last two days but I only have large and felt that would be too much fin on my 6’4 so i popped in some medium Carvers.

Board felt great. Very similar to Wade’s 4VC. Paddles great, handles the steeper drops fine. Turns well in the pocket, goes fast.

Got a couple of carved that felt nice using that much rail. Got a couple of cover ups. My last wave was a long barrel but got foam balled. It’s nice to have a step up I know I can trust in hollow waves up to doh.

 

[obslop]

looked meh with some wind crumble early but had a great time. minimal crowd and many rippable rights.

split keel fins feel good. not as whippy and fast out of the gate as the JS quads but definitely more stable in carves and can be pushed harder.

stoked.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

two go to spots looked like crap so I settled on a novelty wave I haven't surfedt in a long time on the fuse. Surfed alone then two others. mostly crap but a couple fun ones. Best part, no crowd.

 

[Aruka]

Small and windy with cold brown waters all week. Some swell showing today but nothing looked good enough to get me out in that frigid chocolate milk. Back to work. Maybe this evening or tomorrow.

 

[obslop]

Small and windy with cold brown waters all week. Some swell showing today but nothing looked good enough to get me out in that frigid chocolate milk. Back to work. Maybe this evening or tomorrow.

i see guys down here paddling out with hoods, booties when the water touches 60/59 F

i visualize the look of utter disgust and contempt you would have if you were to witness such fookery

 

[000]

was cold in my best fullsuit 2 days ago, now i am too warm in it. early winds didnt stop 20 people from coming out. a few worthy waves, but too much waiting between sets

 

[silentbutdeadly]

dude in the last two weeks it's sea sawed from 58-67. Either two hot or bordeline cold!

 

[teeroi]

Dawned Bowls and it was still a few feet overhead. Took out the 6’0 Tokoro 4X
With the h4 fins in. Got some fun steep drops a couple of cover ups. Not too crowded plus the regulars were getting the pick of the sets. Getting used to using landmarks since the channel marker buoy hasn’t been replaced yet. Best wave got a deep one that had two peaks. Got a roll in to backdoor the barrel. I was going pretty fast and dragged my arm to slow down but didn’t get as deep as I should’ve. Plus I was too high on the face to kickstall. Probably would’ve gone over if I tried that.

Found one glitch if you could call it that. The h4 fins have so much lift that if you don’t keep at least a little weight over the fins they’ll lift the tail out of the water and make the board plow.

 

[racer1]

Been surfing in front of my Uncles house somewhere between Black point and portlock. A wave I never bothered to surf, but because everybody is out of work and lots of spots are crowded, I've started surfing it more. By myself for two hours today on the rights and with one other guy for two hours yesterday. Punchy rights going into the wind and whatever crowd is out there only seems to go left. Yesterday was head high to double over head, rode the Mr Buzz. Today was consistent head high to a few feet overhead, rode the Fling.

 

[oeste858]

So that's your mini-step-up Fling??

Missed my window to surf this morning between work, the early high tide and the onshore wind.