today i went to my spot way down the beach alone. as usual
was very inconsistent, but occasionally worth it and surprising
and so nice to be alone
exactly like my previous post, different day
it was windy early which scared off many surfers
but one man was able to trek a mile down a surferless beach and paddle out when he finally sees another surfer, who, as always, is me
there we were - 2 guys 6' apart-not friends- the only 2 people for as far as we can see.
remember, this is a beach break, its not like its some special shaped reef (or even sandbar) with good waves
this is why my spot has no name, its not good enough to earn one
another group of 3 shitiots showed up and did the same
by then i'd had my 2 hours and i couldnt wait to get out
the wind had kicked up enough to make it pretty worthless out there
and 4 new followers got to share it with eachother
i wonder if dork#1 was bummed when 3 dorks paddled out next to him on an empty stretch of beach