Glad you guys can surf again. Working on the NS but waves are junk today and yesterday. Might be a bump tomorrow afternoon so probably going to miss that one. If it arrives early I’ll get some.
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Same, minus the neti pot need.
Feel human again (but very tired)!
Stoked for Todd and the rest of you who get to surf again.
Didn't surf yesterday or today but had a really fun session Sat eve. Drove up North to the fun righthand sand bar and surfed with just a few friends. Combo swell with non-stop waves. Overhead on the sets. Plenty of crappy ones but some real gems as well. You had to be quick to react and I had the best luck when I started to just go on anything that looked at all promising because sometimes they would double up and reform really nice on the inside. I love this type of surf where you are never sitting and waiting, you are just constantly paddling, duckdiving or riding waves. Feels like it's easier to get into a flow state or something.
The water has warmed up quite a bit and I went gloveless for the first time in a while which felt so nice. Driver2.0 w/ DHD L fins went great.
Didn't surf yesterday or today but had a really fun session Sat eve. Drove up North to the fun righthand sand bar and surfed with just a few friends. Combo swell with non-stop waves. Overhead on the sets. Plenty of crappy ones but some real gems as well. You had to be quick to react and I had the best luck when I started to just go on anything that looked at all promising because sometimes they would double up and reform really nice on the inside. I love this type of surf where you are never sitting and waiting, you are just constantly paddling, duckdiving or riding waves. Feels like it's easier to get into a flow state or something.
The water has warmed up quite a bit and I went gloveless for the first time in a while which felt so nice. Driver2.0 w/ DHD L fins went great.
Heavily blown out dawn to dusk the past week, but I surfed anyway Saturday and today. Only a few people out at Kelly's and actually some fun wedges coming off the rocks. Kid you not, I got denied this afternoon trying to get out the first time! Overlapping short period swells and heavy onshores made it like paddling up river rapids. Walked up the beach and tried again, this time with success. Surfline rated sh!t-poor, but I had fun anyway.
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found my little space amongst the crowd and caught a few. think i made a legitimate ear barrel on one. good to be back in the water.
hopefully the other coastal cities in San Diego will stop being selfish pricks and realize that by closing their beach access they are making the open beaches too crowded.
hopefully the other coastal cities in San Diego will stop being selfish pricks and realize that by closing their beach access they are making the open beaches too crowded.
semi inconsistent but really fun at dawn. then they ran 5 heats simultaneously of a QS 1000 right on top of me. holy fvck
oh well, despite the frustration I got some fun waves on the gx
oh well, despite the frustration I got some fun waves on the gx
Been working REALLY hard to find waves where I don't have to lie to my wife (too much) about running into people.
It's been paying off though. Really have to have at least a 3 hour window for the hike in, but still feeling so fortunate.
Been surfing this little left shelf/wedge on the flying manta. Not big, but steep and fun. super stocked
It's been paying off though. Really have to have at least a 3 hour window for the hike in, but still feeling so fortunate.
Been surfing this little left shelf/wedge on the flying manta. Not big, but steep and fun. super stocked
I surfed today and it was GLORIOUS!!
I did lie to my wife and told her I wouldn't surf near others...we were 6ft apart, good enough. No one was coughing so everything was fine. The red tide was brown. Submerged hand 6 inches and couldn't see it. Surfed with friends I havent seen since my last sesh, March 13th. Rode my magic 5'9" GH quad fish. More "surfers" and waves than I expected. Chest high and glassing off. Caught a lined up runner and my friend on the inside gave me the look...you know the look. "Oh sh!t, look at him go!!". I came home, grilled some rib eyes, had some tequila and life is good again.
I did lie to my wife and told her I wouldn't surf near others...we were 6ft apart, good enough. No one was coughing so everything was fine. The red tide was brown. Submerged hand 6 inches and couldn't see it. Surfed with friends I havent seen since my last sesh, March 13th. Rode my magic 5'9" GH quad fish. More "surfers" and waves than I expected. Chest high and glassing off. Caught a lined up runner and my friend on the inside gave me the look...you know the look. "Oh sh!t, look at him go!!". I came home, grilled some rib eyes, had some tequila and life is good again.
Muscles are pretty torched from the last few days but the lure of mini knee/waste+ hi runners drew me in. Almost loaded up the longbored but it's too much hassle plus i'd prolly ding it just getting it out of the house. Joy Division and a 5'6 Twinzer pulled me thru. Just needed that red tide hit i guess.
smaller, less consistent than yesterday and more crowded even though I paddled out around 11
kinda fun with last turn best
kinda fun with last turn best
I had a great time again on the mini-HPTC twinzer early. Mostly small and not too consistent, but there
were fun flurries. I really hope the other cities open up their beaches soon as it's really crowded, mostly with
people I've never seen. I'll take any day in the water though!
were fun flurries. I really hope the other cities open up their beaches soon as it's really crowded, mostly with
people I've never seen. I'll take any day in the water though!
Worked on the NS again right in front of my regular spot. It was windy and bumpy but north so I kept an eye on it for a bit. Told myself don’t eat breakfast until you know if you’re going out or not. It was still small and an occasional set would push through. Jesse who sponges wasn’t feeling it so I ate my breakfast bento.
After eating I saw my friend Dave go out to foil the right. After twenty minutes he went in and grabbed his board. Looked messy but an occasional nugget would roll in. If I hadn’t eaten yet I would’ve chanced it. It was tattered by the afternoon. I usually score a day or two working out there but just got that short session on Saturday. Oh well.
After eating I saw my friend Dave go out to foil the right. After twenty minutes he went in and grabbed his board. Looked messy but an occasional nugget would roll in. If I hadn’t eaten yet I would’ve chanced it. It was tattered by the afternoon. I usually score a day or two working out there but just got that short session on Saturday. Oh well.
clean but really small. caught two fun waves with the best a wedging right that allowed for two vertical turns.
i look forward to my next entry into the journal in the Spring of 2021.
i look forward to my next entry into the journal in the Spring of 2021.
Looks like the Bro-C ruined it for CA..... sorry
Was kinda fun today . Got sum good ones in the 6-4 . 2 really good but short left toobs . 1 excellent right head dip to close out Shwack. Water felt warm and only saw one stingray . Dolphins and birds looked happy . Don't think I have ever seen the beach so free of litter
Was kinda fun today . Got sum good ones in the 6-4 . 2 really good but short left toobs . 1 excellent right head dip to close out Shwack. Water felt warm and only saw one stingray . Dolphins and birds looked happy . Don't think I have ever seen the beach so free of litter
Marathon session, got 2 of the waveskates out, then when totally gassed switched over to a giant 5'10 Twinzer fish for the lazyboy I'm not stopping for nothing, surf like it's your last day on earth action. Stepped on a stingray or something on my way out but good karma i guess. Hope the rumors are not true...