*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,508
113
PNW
I thought I was done duckdiving 10ft. walls of whitewater for the season but I guess not. Yesterday I surfed an exposed spot up North that has been fun through different tides and sizes lately. It was a bit overpowered on this new swell but the reforms on the inside corner were worth the occasional outer bar closeouts. Just myself and two good buddies out there scrambling around the massive playing field. Rode the 6-9 Simon Mollusc with medium fins which felt okay but I think I prefer large fins even on this board. Shockingly none of the recent transplants were anywhere to be found. It was great to get some bigger waves, get a little scared. My first few waves were really fun and then I botched a late drop on one and got pushed down pretty deep and rolled around for a while. Luckily there wasn't another set wave afterwards and I just managed to get under the next two pitching insiders. The inside was brutal if you got stuck in there and if you didn't get back out quickly the rip would pull you down the beach into this crazy convergence between the left and right where you did not want to be. I figured I'd be done for the day after that session but when I rolled back to my local I could see it starting to come together as the tide pulled outwards.

I snacked on some fruit and trail mix and watched it for a while. Another friend showed up right as a really good set rolled through and so we suited up. 6-6 Album Townsend Twinny. Been riding this one a bit since I got it and it's been really fun. Waves were a little slow at first but they were fun when they came. As the tide dropped further it got better and more consistent. My local rarely gets hollow but there were even some barrels to be had. There were some lefts but the rights were far better. Just the two of us out there for a solid two hours through the best of it. Eventually the post-work people started showing up and I was pretty toasted so I waited a while for a good one which ended up being one of my best waves of the session. Two turns on a steep wall and then speed race through the inside section to a long floater which I haven't really done in a while but which felt good and appropriate for the section since it brought me that much closer to the trailhead.

After unsuiting I hung out on the beach for a while, snacking and watching and bullshitting with a few friends. The waves seemed to slow down a bit but there were still nugs to be had. My buddy had stayed out and he was getting the best of it among the crowd which made me happy.

Today it's foggy and drizzling with bad winds.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,921
3,033
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
it was a process to pull it off , but i got to jump in the water again today keeping my gills wet for the impending kookentine reopening of the beaches, got a few decent waves and paddled up and down the beach chasing mini peaks and then body surfed for 20 mins, my bad shoulder is really hurting these days and I guess the regular accupuncture I was getting before the world turned off was really helping. having needle withdrawals , need to call bonzer5fin...
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Surfed my NS regular. It’s been closing out the last few days but it was around head high and dropping. Took out my 6’2 Tokoro 4X because I thought I saw some wash throughs. Then was too lazy to go in and grab my smaller board when i got out and realized it’s kinda small. Tried for a couple of tubes. Did some ok turns. Went in early and did some work at the house I park at.

Talked to a bunch of surfer friends. One has a daughter that flew in from New York. She’s staying with the mom by Kapiolani Park. He said she gets a random call everyday and so far has gotten 3 random visits from officials to make sure she’s observing quarantine.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,596
3,597
113
California/Hawaii
Forgot to add, the beach parks opened for parking starting yesterday. So there were more people out than normal. They opened it strictly for exercising. People were literally sitting at the water line so they could claim they were swimming. Give people an inch and they take a mile.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
At my regular the residents must be making calls to 911. Heard a NS girl got cited by four cops on ATVs for laying on the beach with her board. I think she was asleep or couldve just jumped in the water. This was last week, so hopefully they be a little more mellow.
 
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silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,486
23,075
113
Tower 13
surfed the local this morning. got packed pretty quick. Groups of 4-5 people not out of question. Water was full of people that appear to surf about 4-5 times a year and just wanted to surf today to tell everyone they surfed on opening day. Crowd emptied out substantially by 7:45 or so. I hope they open more beaches so it spreads people out more.

Fuse was pretty good today.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,580
6,117
113
SD
I overheard one of my neighbors telling another neighbor how he doesn't really surf too much but really feels like he needs to go down and get in the water tomorrow (today). I am waiting it out, hopefully they don't shut it down before I have a chance to get in.
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,272
113
San Diego, CA
Walked the dog down to the water to scope it out on Opening Day. Was packed around 7:30 this morning, but not too bad by midday. Surf's pretty marginal. Weak, crumbly. Lots of Wavestorms and Surftechs getting in and out.
Probably gonna pass today. More tempted to go for a quick paddle around just to get the atrophied muscles firing again, rather than a grovel.
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
The gnar-bar delivered the goods today . 3 to 4 foot but it was squares it feltbigger . rode the 6-4 round tail giggle box and it felt great to feel that normal hpsb rail engagement.
Combo swell helped the shape and some of the right were pretty long with multiple hit opptions . lefts were very fast and imploding twice as hard .

Suprised how crowded it was or suprised with the people's choice to surf the gnar-bar when they can hardly get to their feet Lololol.
 

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,583
765
113
Opening day! 3+ hours and totally SMOKED!
Red tide has my sinuses semi jacked, gonna order a neti pot on amazon.
Water was around 64-65, hot in 2mm full, gonna hunt down my short arm 2mm fullsuits.
STOCKED!