*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Watching him try to shred the pocket with the heavy backfooted approach of a life long thrusterer was highly offensive to me but he was having a blast so I didn't bother trying to school him on the fine art of twin finning.
You talking to me?
We were watching Daniel whose kind of a hipster riding a Brewer Chapman kneeboard as a fish. He got that knock knee cruisey flow styley. One of the rippers goes Daniel got good style. I think if I take a yoga class, smoke tons of herb, and drink kombucha for a year I still can’t surf like that. Gonna just keep hacking away. Hahaha
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,506
113
PNW
Teeroi, I'm sure you're doing just fine. My buddy Danny is like mid 40's and this might be the 2nd time in his life he's ridden a non thruster surfboard. The other time was about a decade ago when I told him to try my Mini Driver as a quad. He hated it. He's a good surfer but he will just need some time to figure out the twinnies if he wants to go that direction, which it sounds like he might. He was pretty amped on being able to make long sections on knee high runners and he said he got one cutback that felt amazing. Stamps told me a long time ago when I got my TKF from him to think of each rail and fin as one and that kind of stuck with me and helped me figure the board out. Also I think he said just stop trying so hard, haha.
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
268
200
43
Big Asian Island
Had a few weeks of stuff to do and then got a chest cold. Two more weeks of that and coughing up oysters and finally today lined up to get back out there at the local. Chest to overhead in unusually clean conditions. I always worry that after such a long time out of the water, I'm gonna be tripping all over my feet but pretty comfortable. Rode the smooth as butter Pyzel Ghost and went real well. Tried some new Futures P8 Legacy fins that loosened things up a touch and made it real fun.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,486
23,075
113
Tower 13
My local was complete junk so I looked at some reefs then ended up at a beachbreak that looked better. Saw two rippers getting some on a rip bowl, then one went in so I headed over. Got two waves then the other guy went in and I had it to myself. Pretty darn fun until the tide drained it out and the rip left. Fuse as a thruster felt good but not as good as a quad. EIther way, got some fun runner rights and some nice backside hacks.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Surfed the Beach with too many of my fellow man on on President's Day.

Overhead, nice shape, sunny, very little wind for most of it, and jammed with surfers.

After a while, gave up the A peak.

Then as I got more tired and wanted to save energy for wave catching, moved from B peak to C.

Best ride: B peak on the 3rd wave of the outside set...just got lucky being in position.

Worst ride: A peak 'spin and go' thwarted by row of people inside of me. If I was better, would have went and missed them by inches. But when I spun and saw how many were there, well, it kinda surprised me, and that threw me off enough to think I could f*ck it up, and without that confidence, envisaged me not missing them, so I backed out, and felt like a loser.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Similar experience to Doof, but I paddled out at C peak thinking that the current would take me to A peak. Not much current, and I lost the ambition to compete for waves, so after grabbing a couple mediocre ones on C, I drifted toward B and pretty much stayed there. Packed a closeout, got a decent frontside snap off on an insider, pig-doged a left for some brief shade. Also got caught inside a couple of times and had some pretty brutal paddles, which made me lose what will I had left to hunt down the best waves. Went home, turned on the cam and watched 200 yard walls peel off of A peak and kicked myself.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. Much lighter crowd. Swell is waning. Looks like it peaked yesterday afternoon. Today it was almost head high but there were some long lulls where even the inside went flat. But the waves that came in were really nice. More south so you could take off deep but some of those don’t wall up.

Took the Tokoro X2 out again. Really liking it. It’s fast and can surf vertically. Got a couple sets that stayed open and got some smashes and wraps in. Stoke.Ed
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Tuesday a lot like Monday but more inconsistent in the early AM with more tide, however it was offset by less people. So more opportunities to get waves even if I wasn't right at the best take-off spot.

Best ride: An 'A peak' wave at the 'B peak'. Again, some positioning luck (with hefty sprint paddle to out-compete two others) got me into it on the easy side of the peak. All I had to do was come off the bottom, bank/stall, then set up for the very easy speed run in the pocket. If I was better, would have stalled it out more for the cover up....maybe I just to not worry about blowing it and take more risks (maybe I would have if it wasn't so inconsistent).

Worst ride was the last one. Straight off Adolph....and I still had to paddle to the inside bar.
 
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teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. Was messing around in the parking lot sweeping sand into Les’ stall. He’s on a snowboard trip to Oregon. When he gets back his parking spot will have all the sand in it. Saw some whitewash so I stopped and headed out.

Brought the Moonfish cause I thought it was going to be scrapes. Boy what surprise. Head high, right tide, right direction, small group of regulars and lots of waves. Way more consistent than the other dawn patrol days.

Got a couple of cover-ups but fell on the best tube. Mostly long rippable walls. It’s pretty windy so you gotta paddle hard to get in. The Moonfish feels a little long but surfs so good. Fast, vertical, paddles great. Can’t go wrong for south shore waves.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Got to Bowls early to continue my parking spot prank. There’s so much sand in Les’ spot no one else even wants to park there. He gets back tonight.

Waves came down a lot but the wind is still howling. Watched for a bit and went out to Bowls. It sucked. One of the dawn patrol crew Kyle waswaiting for a wave to go in but I snaked him so he burned me, I tried to jump and grab his leash but missed. Haha. Best wave did a top turn into a cutback and the wind blew me over. Paddled over to Rockpiles to catch one in. Got kind of a long runner under these two guys that used me to find the takeoff area and just rode it in.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,596
3,597
113
California/Hawaii
Had fun surfing the east side on President's day. It may be just me, but I love windy on shore conditions. East side spots get blown up when Kona's come around. East on shore wind? Three people out on a holiday weekend when the sets were OH.

Still trying to figure out my Psycho Killer. I've only ridden it as a quad. Love the board but I am having a hard time clicking with quads. I can't figure them out. Always hated them but when I bought this board I told myself I'll give it a solid try this time. I think I'll keep it going for another month and then decide.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,506
113
PNW
Had to run some errands down South so checked a river jetty that usually has clean conditions in the morning. It looked really fun when I pulled up. Hard to tell the size so I took the Fling out since this wave is usually pretty soft. It ended up being a little bigger than I thought and the short n fat board didn't feel particularly great, especially on the backhand. After nursing a few turns I went in and grabbed my thruster. The tide was dropping and the current really kicked up to where it was basically a constant battle to hold position. Got a few more waves but they either mushed out or ran off down the line. Got stuck inside for a while and it was a nightmare getting back to the peak. The rip was making it really hard to get back to the shoulder so I was just stuck inside of the peak. Managed to make it back out and get a couple snaps on some mid sized waves but nothing special. The waves were pretty to look at but pretty impossible to actually surf well. This spot is often tough for me. No matter how big it gets it doesn't feel like it has the shape to ride a shortboard but it's tough to paddle around and chase peaks, let alone surf it on a fish when it's overhead. I've had a lot of fun out there when it's small and a little more focused but once it gets a little bigger the sets shift around so much and it just feels like I'm never in the right spot. On the plus side it was a beautiful windless day and I got to eat some good Thai food at my favorite spot. Also the DMV was empty so I was in and out in roughly five minutes.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Got to Bowls early to continue my parking spot prank. There’s so much sand in Les’ spot no one else even wants to park there. He gets back tonight.

Waves came down a lot but the wind is still howling. Watched for a bit and went out to Bowls. It sucked. One of the dawn patrol crew Kyle waswaiting for a wave to go in but I snaked him so he burned me, I tried to jump and grab his leash but missed. Haha. Best wave did a top turn into a cutback and the wind blew me over. Paddled over to Rockpiles to catch one in. Got kind of a long runner under these two guys that used me to find the takeoff area and just rode it in.
Fork, you have the best stories (and seemingly the best crew!)

"I snaked him, so he burned me", love it, The "worst" incidents are always with the bros on the worst days. I have had this same routine with Bassy many a time.

This was as close as I got today to surfing

 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Thanks. Kaisers, Rockpiles, Bowls there’s a steady crew of regulars at each of those spots but we share the same parking lot so everybody kinda knows each other.

The Bowls and Rockpiles dawn patrol crews, some of them are lifelong friends. We, especially me will say the meanest sh*t about each other’s lack of surfing ability and wave judgement but it’s all in fun. Although there are also a couple of guys and gals that are regulars that I wouldn’t pee on them if they burst into flames in front of me. Haha.

Surfings here is fun but good manners is encouraged.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,272
113
San Diego, CA
Demoing a carbon fiber 5'10" Pyzel AstroPop from JT/Dark Arts for a few days. Not much swell sadly, but got in one session 2 days ago at local reef 1-3': 12 people out, 64 min, 5 tiny waves. Not enough, but the waves I caught, board felt fun/fast. Not as fishy as I expected, more foiled. Maybe a tiny bit thicker and I could see it being a DD quad for me. Hoping to get it on a nice lined-up wall soon. Will try again at a local reef this morning as the tide climbs down from an early high.
IMG_8402.jpeg

Yesterday was a quick 30min on 5'3" Hank Warner minsim. Tiny 1-2' onshore choppy waves. Caught a bunch. Planing speed for days. Bar of soap squirting around a tub. Stocked :shaka:
 
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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Lots of north bound current this AM.

Made me regret taking the 6 footer out...it paddles fine, but sustained battle against the longshore drift is just a hassle with smaller boards (curse this aging muscle + 40 hr work week thing). So lots of paddling for position versus paddling for rides.

Anyway, focusing only on best ride, it on the smaller side, but super well shaped in the offshore gentle breeze. For a change, the wave didn't just melt into nothing as it swept in, so once up and going, it was easy to pump, glide, cut back, pump, glide, highline through the waist high section that didn't close out, cut back, pump, glide in the pocket as the wave starts to bowl/bend, and then once past that, kicked out into knee deep water. Decided to belly it in.

On shore, looked back and saw a great set move through with people splitting the peak...seemed like the bigger waves backed off before hitting the inner part where I had set up. Anyway, got to work 1/2 hr late.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Got to Bowls early to finish my parking spot prank. Finishing touch was Les’ name in painters tape on Mooch



9E8B822E-750D-4CDA-962C-300FEFA3C67E.jpeg

Les got there a little late and he had a little bit of a cold from his snowboarding trip. So his reaction was a little disappointing. I told him I saved him a spot. He replied you did that. Glad I amuse you. Of course he got his broom out and started sweeping the strips and made a huge mound under his van. I told him my ocd is to mess with your ocd. Roy RV goes everyone has a D. Haha

Waves kinda sucked but the wind is dying down. Took Jeannie to breakfast, she’s had a hard week. Todd’s birthday and anniversary of his death, plus a handful of surfer friends passing.

Hope you guys are getting some