Both, nothing.Convincing myself I need a Phantom and/or Ghost... WTF is wrong with me?!?
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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Yeah, it happens. What were you riding? Gotta be the board... or the fins...
Maybe you should have been on a fling. Or a PJ.
I ate too well and drank too much on my business trip so I felt like a manitee in the water today. Got some fun ones though. New Arc glass fins on the fuse felt good construction wise but too drivey for my taste.
Quick 3 wave sesh at Crowdiff
Nice condition but not much on offer
Sad I missed the J Bay conditions locally this week :'(
Nice condition but not much on offer
Sad I missed the J Bay conditions locally this week :'(
Surfed a favorite spot of mine. There was a lot of swell in the water but when it’s that big lot of the energy unloads on the outer reef and the spot I surfed gets a little short changed. A little smaller would’ve focused more energy on the good part of the reef. That said it was fun. Head high clean no one but me out for two hours. Got a few runners. I’ve been surfing this spot going on 40 years but when no one is out it feels sharky and I can get lost. Lost by five feet too far out or too on the shoulder. Finally figured it out. The wash thru white water take-offs to double ups were the call.
When I went in saw a couple of the regulars. One of them said I had a nice turn on my last wave. Then he told me he surfed yesterday afternoon and someone saw a tiger shark out there. I checked my phone and my friend Guy texted me the same message. No wonder nobody was out. Waves were fun so they all were going out after I was unscathed. Haha. Texted Wade Tokoro, he knew about shark sighting, said he was glad I was safe and wanted to know how the board was working. Hahaha.
When I went in saw a couple of the regulars. One of them said I had a nice turn on my last wave. Then he told me he surfed yesterday afternoon and someone saw a tiger shark out there. I checked my phone and my friend Guy texted me the same message. No wonder nobody was out. Waves were fun so they all were going out after I was unscathed. Haha. Texted Wade Tokoro, he knew about shark sighting, said he was glad I was safe and wanted to know how the board was working. Hahaha.
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What time were you out there? I hit it earlyish and got a few fun lefts on the log. Kinda fat with the tide, but was better than not surfing.
Yeah a Fling if you like going strait.
Surfed the same spot as yesterday. The outer reef wasn’t breaking so more energy focused on the part of the reef I surf so it was really fun. Shoulder to head high, offshore, four of us out. Wade Tokoro and two other friends. I had it to myself yesterday but I caught way more waves today. It was better organized, we just took turns and I tried to stay in my lane instead trying to chase nuggets down. It’s always fun to surf with Wade when it’s just a few of his friends. Got a bunch of good waves in front of him and he was telling me that the Moonfish looked fast and I was throwing it around. Best turn I got was a roll in to a double up, squared off the bottom and went straight up. Wade nodded his approval. Always a ego boost to surf good in front of the guy who shaped the board you’re riding.
There’s a local pro who got a dozen boards from Wade recently. So I asked Wade if he is sponsoring that pro. He said no, he paid for those boards. I told him you gotta put on your Instagram,”when the pros pay for boards they come see me.” He cracked up, “yeah, that’s a good one.” Hahaha.
There’s a local pro who got a dozen boards from Wade recently. So I asked Wade if he is sponsoring that pro. He said no, he paid for those boards. I told him you gotta put on your Instagram,”when the pros pay for boards they come see me.” He cracked up, “yeah, that’s a good one.” Hahaha.
1 1/2 day into this run of swell and I'm already a wreck - thank you very much!First we'll have 4-5 days of SSW ground swell, thank you very much
Roll-ins to double-ups at the local. Still on the 6'10 DS.
No I like it, I just like giving Racer a hard time.
Waves have been pretty fun here. Got a couple solo sessions at a hike in left sand bar that hasn't had a good set up in years. One day it was about as good as I've ever gotten it. Nice wedging entry to a stretched out, well overhead lumbering wall. There was an occasional inside barrel section in front of some sketchy boils. Rode a Chris Gallagher 6'2.5" round pin Jordy reject for the first time in real waves. It felt good. Definitely quite different from anything I've ever ridden. Narrower and thicker and also a little shorter than I would usually go for a round pin good wave board. Seems like it has most of the rocker in the front half of the board but it also carries foam up front so it gets into waves better than I expected. Had a couple nose bonks coming down after tagging the inside section but once I started surfing a little harder off the tail the board really came alive and didn't have any more catchy nose instances. Felt like it carried speed through turns and between turns. Got a ding in the nose when my leash broke and it washed in to the beach so I rode the Ghost the next day and I was missing the extra literage. I was also tore up from surfing a 4 hr sesh the day before so that was probably a factor.
Last couple days just been surfing the local. Mushy outside to inside running right handers. Nothing special but fun to share waves with my buddies and relatively few strangers. Riding the new Rusty Hatchet mostly. After a rocky start surfing the board as a quad I threw in some fiberglass AM2's and it's been feeling a bit better.
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Not felt this surfed out in a long time. 10+ hours worth of surfing in the last 3 days and I'm roasted.
Had retribution for the dodgy surf I had with pure wave quality. Take off, draw a line, get baral. Rinse and repeat.
I don't have anything that doesn't hurt and/or isn't chafed and/or isn't sunburnt.
Glad I went out though, and seems only more is on the way.
Just turned 40 and wondered if it's because of that that I'm feeling so beat up, but one of my mates that's about 15 years younger than me couldn;t make it out of bed this morning, so I'm not feeling too bad about how much I hurt haha.
Had retribution for the dodgy surf I had with pure wave quality. Take off, draw a line, get baral. Rinse and repeat.
I don't have anything that doesn't hurt and/or isn't chafed and/or isn't sunburnt.
Tell me about it. This morning was hard getting out of bed. Took the kids for a swim in the lake in the middle of it all, and I didn't have a drop of sunscreen on me. My eyes were even so swollen this morning I could only see out of one
Glad I went out though, and seems only more is on the way. Just turned 40 and wondered if it's because of that that I'm feeling so beat up, but one of my mates that's about 15 years younger than me couldn;t make it out of bed this morning, so I'm not feeling too bad about how much I hurt haha.
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Haha!Not felt this surfed out in a long time. 10+ hours worth of surfing in the last 3 days and I'm roasted.
Had retribution for the dodgy surf I had with pure wave quality. Take off, draw a line, get baral. Rinse and repeat.
I don't have anything that doesn't hurt and/or isn't chafed and/or isn't sunburnt.
Tell me about it. This morning was hard getting out of bed. Took the kids for a swim in the lake in the middle of it all, and I didn't have a drop of sunscreen on me. My eyes were even so swollen this morning I could only see out of one
Just turned 40 and wondered if it's because of that that I'm feeling so beat up, but one of my mates that's about 15 years younger than me couldn;t make it out of bed this morning, so I'm not feeling too bad about how much I hurt haha.
Just got in from nr three session today. 7 hours today, 5 1/2 yesterday. My eyes are so fried and red, my back one big knot. But faaark, it's been worth it!
How are you able to surf for 7 hours on a weekday?!? Jealous!
Storm came through last night, bit of rain today. Tempted by a couple chunky sets I saw roll through, but probably not worth the sinus infection from runoff.
Do most of you guys actually wait to surf 24-48 hrs. after a rain, or nah?
Storm came through last night, bit of rain today. Tempted by a couple chunky sets I saw roll through, but probably not worth the sinus infection from runoff.
Do most of you guys actually wait to surf 24-48 hrs. after a rain, or nah?
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No one in New Zealand is employed.
Been through my second snapped leggie in this run of swell... not gonna complain though, Huey's turned the tap on and it's feasting time
I work day and evening shifts, and had Sunday and Monday off. (I'm on part time, too. Looots of time for surfing.)
Just started my 1-9pm evening, so had all morning to get smashed today. Went on a local backcountry adventure on my mtb, thinking I'd surf a favourite righthander about 7km down a gravel/rock track. Only got as far as the normally sectiony and rocky left, which today was breaking way the heck out the back and twice as long as I've seen before.
Severely undergunned on my 6'3 Ghost, but got 5 waves and didn't hit the bottom. Success!
Just started my 1-9pm evening, so had all morning to get smashed today. Went on a local backcountry adventure on my mtb, thinking I'd surf a favourite righthander about 7km down a gravel/rock track. Only got as far as the normally sectiony and rocky left, which today was breaking way the heck out the back and twice as long as I've seen before.
Severely undergunned on my 6'3 Ghost, but got 5 waves and didn't hit the bottom. Success!