I was at my desk all day yesterday watching the cam, still glassy after lunch.fun as fk today. chest to shoulder+ a-frames with push all up and down the beach. rode the stamps giggle box og 6'0 and holy chit that boar flies! was done after 20 mins as I got 4 excellent waves that were long and allowed multiple carves and hits during that time frame. the inside section had the perfect coping for end section reos and snaps old man stylee yo! stayed out another 45 mins but I could've left after the first 20 mins. got a bunch more lefts and rights carve hit race carve hit repeat. last wave was solid HH bigger of the day and the gb glided in and was flying. got out after that. 12 waves of quality with no closeouts in 1:15. regulars said yesterday was even better. good times, i needed that. btw, fkn ridiculously crowded since nobody goes to work or school anymore. but when u gangsta u get ur set waves uncontested.
was good all wk up and down the coast. yesterday had some magic. surfed out in 20 mins after 4 waves kinda magic lol. hit me up if u wanna surge next wk.I was at my desk all day yesterday watching the cam, still glassy after lunch.
I almost got outta there & went....it looked soooooo gooooddd
hey kento, Graeme says hi.Seeing what you all are saying, holy sh!t did I do the right thing today by waiting til late morning. Went to usual with family, high tide so the kids had fun sliding down the berm and being general nuisances. Beach wasn't horribly crowded but people filtering in. Until it became a shitshow.
Water, though, was empty. Couldn't believe it when pulled up, could see waves from parking lot, tide was high but not that high. Barely any wind, and yes that windswell. So hard to see the 2nd/3rd wave of sets. Waves were chest to shoulder high with a few head high to foot or two overhead sets that came in relatively consistently. But since only 7 second period, a little weak. First part of session was lackluster and I surfed shitty. Just flatfooted. But tide started slowly dropping, sandbar started working consistently and 50 yard rights and shorter but juicier lefts coming in. Second part, mirror image sesh.
Lot of rights that went for a bit but did peter out because it's west windswell but many good lefts that had push. Trouble is they dumped you into the rest of the set. More of an annoyance to duckdive than anything else. Best one was a left set wave breaking into the rip. Looked closed out, late drop in but rip held it up just enough that could pigdog through it. Wish I had stuck a finger or two in the face because I could have been a couple feet further back (a race I didn't actually expect to win when I dropped in) but made up for it by a big off-the-lip hack, into a roundhouse and then out the back. That felt really good. My wife was like, where did that come from?!
I have no idea where the hell this swell came from. Completely unreported. From anyone. And I am flabbergasted that so many of you got skunked - would have guessed it was OH++ everywhere else. Must have been that tide push followed by it dropping. And the 6'6" Speed Demon with two AMs and a G-3 in the middle is working well, especially with waves like today.
Hell yes. Makes my day. Tell him the same. Solid guy. My old Cliffs running dog. Been meaning to catch up with him again for awhile now.hey kento, Graeme says hi.
Oh man that's so hilarious and awesome on so many levels.I surf with G every single day.
Dang you know Clay? We went to Salina Cruz together!
Damn, you need to come down, we'll hook up a session. or beers, or both
Yeah he rolls super low key. He's my friend Tim's brother, us and Graeme all lived in the same apartment complex behind Pat's Liquor. I mean we're talking 18 years ago days but you know a kid/guy named Mason? Blond nutcase. I still have a score to settle with him haha. Fucker laid duct tape across bottom foot of bedroom door with thumbtacks strewn beyond it. But I did learn an evil prank as a result. And I have so, so many already.I don't know stevo unfortunately.
clay is just north of 50 and is ripping on low volume shortboards. just epic. it was funny having him on a surf trip with a bunch of beer chugging dudes. he's a damn good dude.
I only surf down there a few times a year due to crowds but don't surf that spot much at all
If you want to come down just let me know, that would be awesome. i still remember that little sesh in carlsbad when I surfed with you and ifall a handful of years ago. That's the only time I met you.
You win the award for the most vile disgusting flop house. Vomit. I did not even want to sit in your sofa.Yeah he rolls super low key. He's my friend Tim's brother, us and Graeme all lived in the same apartment complex behind Pat's Liquor. I mean we're talking 18 years ago days but you know a kid/guy named Mason? Blond nutcase. I still have a score to settle with him haha. Fucker laid duct tape across bottom foot of bedroom door with thumbtacks strewn beyond it. But I did learn an evil prank as a result. And I have so, so many already.
I had to get out of OB. Things got out of hand and all of a sudden my place turned into every fucking miscreant's flop house. Thank god weed is legal now. None of that bullshit. Different story for different days.
Clay is a very solid surfer and I am stocked to hear that he's still killing it. Great guy. Definitely tell him I said hi.
That spot I named? If nothing has changed, there are 30 people out. 30 of them are buoys and don't count as people. I still remember this one time Stevo, Tim, and I paddled out, solid OH+ day (8 -12' faces), I think I was leashless too, everyone was sitting on mid-shoulder. We tried to be respectful and not paddle over the top of them and wait in "line" but after 2 minutes, realized that was stupid. I don't even know, 15, 20 clean barrels and everything in between on relative flats across over course of the sesh with everyone staring stupidly and then just paddling around them like they didn't exist. L******* is different but that spot? Pfft.
That sesh in CBad was fun. I also knew (because you definitely can surf) that I had to get that one frontside reentry in somewhat decent in front of you to save some face.
Yeah, man, solid NW, it's on.
Big money no whammies!Secret sandbar #1
Waist to HH , peaky and hollow , good rights / short lefts
Couple head dips , some turns, lots of fun
Dolphins put on a show
I got vip front row parking
Heading to buy lotto tickets now lololol
Thanks mother nature , I needed that