*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
3,663
2,656
113
eastside oahu
Paddled out in the dark. Been riding the twin fin fish so wanted to catch a couple before anyone could see me adjusting back to a thruster. First two waves were runners and I got left behind. Third wave was a charm instead of bottom turning I angled in more and raced it. Got a long roundhouse and hit the closeout at the very inside and rode out. Waves were HH plus and good direction but lully. When they rolled in there were more than one in the set. Missed a couple of nuggets because of the higher tide and offshores but Neal/Sponge caught one I missed and bodysurfed and got barreled. He probably got a nice pic of that wave. After the boys teased me for missing that one and saying Neal got it I yelled out you’re welcome Neal. Haha.

Fun waves. I was planning to work today but after getting some food I’m going to take a nap instead. Hopefully the king tide doesn’t mess up the waves for the dawn patrol tomorrow.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,095
5,383
113
The Bar
Seeing what you all are saying, holy sh!t did I do the right thing today by waiting til late morning. Went to usual with family, high tide so the kids had fun sliding down the berm and being general nuisances. Beach wasn't horribly crowded but people filtering in. Until it became a shitshow.

Water, though, was empty. Couldn't believe it when pulled up, could see waves from parking lot, tide was high but not that high. Barely any wind, and yes that windswell. So hard to see the 2nd/3rd wave of sets. Waves were chest to shoulder high with a few head high to foot or two overhead sets that came in relatively consistently. But since only 7 second period, a little weak. First part of session was lackluster and I surfed shitty. Just flatfooted. But tide started slowly dropping, sandbar started working consistently and 50 yard rights and shorter but juicier lefts coming in. Second part, mirror image sesh.

Lot of rights that went for a bit but did peter out because it's west windswell but many good lefts that had push. Trouble is they dumped you into the rest of the set. More of an annoyance to duckdive than anything else. Best one was a left set wave breaking into the rip. Looked closed out, late drop in but rip held it up just enough that could pigdog through it. Wish I had stuck a finger or two in the face because I could have been a couple feet further back (a race I didn't actually expect to win when I dropped in) but made up for it by a big off-the-lip hack, into a roundhouse and then out the back. That felt really good. My wife was like, where did that come from?! :roflmao:

I have no idea where the hell this swell came from. Completely unreported. From anyone. And I am flabbergasted that so many of you got skunked - would have guessed it was OH++ everywhere else. Must have been that tide push followed by it dropping. And the 6'6" Speed Demon with two AMs and a G-3 in the middle is working well, especially with waves like today.
 
Last edited:

laidback

Tom Curren status
Feb 9, 2007
10,075
1,079
113
NOC
fun as fk today. chest to shoulder+ a-frames with push all up and down the beach. rode the stamps giggle box og 6'0 and holy chit that boar flies! was done after 20 mins as I got 4 excellent waves that were long and allowed multiple carves and hits during that time frame. the inside section had the perfect coping for end section reos and snaps old man stylee yo! stayed out another 45 mins but I could've left after the first 20 mins. got a bunch more lefts and rights carve hit race carve hit repeat. last wave was solid HH bigger of the day and the gb glided in and was flying. got out after that. 12 waves of quality with no closeouts in 1:15. regulars said yesterday was even better. good times, i needed that. btw, fkn ridiculously crowded since nobody goes to work or school anymore. but when u gangsta u get ur set waves uncontested.
I was at my desk all day yesterday watching the cam, still glassy after lunch.
I almost got outta there & went....it looked soooooo gooooddd
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kento and teeroi

Waterlogged05

Gerry Lopez status
May 14, 2005
963
404
63
First surf on RNF redux, 5'4" x 19.25 x 2.something
A little more volume than normal 27.6 literes rather than 24
Messy storm swell coming in
Waist high reform from larger/mushy outside to dumpier inside. Drift session because the winds were 25mph.
Weird semi offshore winds and strange swell direction made it super frustrating to get into waves, thing paddles well though
Blew a few waves and went in all mad, forgot the rocker has more tail curve than Driver. Oh yea front foot, then switch to tail on turns ok got it.
Next session caught more waves, a bunch of bad ones then finally got 2 good ones, one backside hack and a roundhouse
Then a front-side down the line racer to late smack, Got a little sideways but fins gripped hard despite pushing the tail out. Day made, session salvaged. Went from cussing like a Brazzo to good mood.

Round nose only messed me up when I tried to get into a mini barrel and got sucked up face and pitched.
Not sold on fish but I think some new fins and a bit of practice could bring this thing to life. The extra foam is good for paddling but made duck diving slightly more annoying. I would go .25 less wide if I custom ordered and a hair thinner.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kento and teeroi

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,146
3,390
113
Tower 13
Seeing what you all are saying, holy sh!t did I do the right thing today by waiting til late morning. Went to usual with family, high tide so the kids had fun sliding down the berm and being general nuisances. Beach wasn't horribly crowded but people filtering in. Until it became a shitshow.

Water, though, was empty. Couldn't believe it when pulled up, could see waves from parking lot, tide was high but not that high. Barely any wind, and yes that windswell. So hard to see the 2nd/3rd wave of sets. Waves were chest to shoulder high with a few head high to foot or two overhead sets that came in relatively consistently. But since only 7 second period, a little weak. First part of session was lackluster and I surfed shitty. Just flatfooted. But tide started slowly dropping, sandbar started working consistently and 50 yard rights and shorter but juicier lefts coming in. Second part, mirror image sesh.

Lot of rights that went for a bit but did peter out because it's west windswell but many good lefts that had push. Trouble is they dumped you into the rest of the set. More of an annoyance to duckdive than anything else. Best one was a left set wave breaking into the rip. Looked closed out, late drop in but rip held it up just enough that could pigdog through it. Wish I had stuck a finger or two in the face because I could have been a couple feet further back (a race I didn't actually expect to win when I dropped in) but made up for it by a big off-the-lip hack, into a roundhouse and then out the back. That felt really good. My wife was like, where did that come from?! :roflmao:

I have no idea where the hell this swell came from. Completely unreported. From anyone. And I am flabbergasted that so many of you got skunked - would have guessed it was OH++ everywhere else. Must have been that tide push followed by it dropping. And the 6'6" Speed Demon with two AMs and a G-3 in the middle is working well, especially with waves like today.
hey kento, Graeme says hi.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kento

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,095
5,383
113
The Bar
hey kento, Graeme says hi.
Hell yes. Makes my day. Tell him the same. Solid guy. My old Cliffs running dog. Been meaning to catch up with him again for awhile now.

Me and him surfed 4-6' HI scale Winki with GROM as good as waves get. 300 to 400 yard rights. I legit got five 3-5 second barrel sections on one wave - add it up. And yeah, same sesh that ElOgro razzes me about. :roflmao: Both of us way too haired to surf sharky-ass Johanna at 8-10(?)'. Good trip that time for sure; one of my best surf trips of all time.

If you know G, I know you know Clay C. Tell him I said hello too.
 
Last edited:

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,146
3,390
113
Tower 13
I surf with G every single day.

Dang you know Clay? We went to Salina Cruz together!

Damn, you need to come down, we'll hook up a session. or beers, or both :jamon:
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,095
5,383
113
The Bar
I surf with G every single day.

Dang you know Clay? We went to Salina Cruz together!

Damn, you need to come down, we'll hook up a session. or beers, or both :jamon:
Oh man that's so hilarious and awesome on so many levels.

Clay and I used to work together! I miss surfing with those guys. So many good sessions back in the day.

Longer shot but you know a guy named Stevo (Floyd)? Surfs same area as you. Usually on singles or twins. Quiet but very solid, Indo-seasoned surfer. Normal size blond guy with chrome stud in earhole. You'd know him if I pointed him out, I'm sure.

BTW, you surf R******** at all? That was my spot above all others by a long shot. fook I need to reclaim my spot in the lineup on the deepest part of that reef. Yes, I'm regularfoot. I love lefts.

This fall/winter. Solid winter swell. I have 14 hours sick time that needs to be burned by New Years. It's on. And I'm very much itching big time.
 

Why_was_I_banned

Nep status
Sep 5, 2020
876
466
63
I went for a paddle on the 14 footer. Mistake was two hotdogs, two bags of chips and 8 oreos. I made a mile and a half and the stomach said let's go home.

Caught a couple of waves on it. It will catch anything, but absolutely impossible to steer.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,146
3,390
113
Tower 13
I don't know stevo unfortunately.

clay is just north of 50 and is ripping on low volume shortboards. just epic. it was funny having him on a surf trip with a bunch of beer chugging dudes. he's a damn good dude.

I only surf down there a few times a year due to crowds but don't surf that spot much at all

If you want to come down just let me know, that would be awesome. i still remember that little sesh in carlsbad when I surfed with you and ifall a handful of years ago. That's the only time I met you.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,095
5,383
113
The Bar
I don't know stevo unfortunately.

clay is just north of 50 and is ripping on low volume shortboards. just epic. it was funny having him on a surf trip with a bunch of beer chugging dudes. he's a damn good dude.

I only surf down there a few times a year due to crowds but don't surf that spot much at all

If you want to come down just let me know, that would be awesome. i still remember that little sesh in carlsbad when I surfed with you and ifall a handful of years ago. That's the only time I met you.
Yeah he rolls super low key. He's my friend Tim's brother, us and Graeme all lived in the same apartment complex behind Pat's Liquor. I mean we're talking 18 years ago days but you know a kid/guy named Mason? Blond nutcase. I still have a score to settle with him haha. Fucker laid duct tape across bottom foot of bedroom door with thumbtacks strewn beyond it. But I did learn an evil prank as a result. And I have so, so many already.

I had to get out of OB. Things got out of hand and all of a sudden my place turned into every fucking miscreant's flop house. Thank god weed is legal now. None of that bullshit. Different story for different days.

Clay is a very solid surfer and I am stocked to hear that he's still killing it. Great guy. Definitely tell him I said hi.

That spot I named? If nothing has changed, there are 30 people out. 30 of them are buoys and don't count as people. I still remember this one time Stevo, Tim, and I paddled out, solid OH+ day (8 -12' faces), I think I was leashless too, everyone was sitting on mid-shoulder. We tried to be respectful and not paddle over the top of them and wait in "line" but after 2 minutes, realized that was stupid. I don't even know, 15, 20 clean barrels and everything in between on relative flats across over course of the sesh with everyone staring stupidly and then just paddling around them like they didn't exist. L******* is different but that spot? Pfft.

That sesh in CBad was fun. I also knew (because you definitely can surf) that I had to get that one frontside reentry in somewhat decent in front of you to save some face. :roflmao:

Yeah, man, solid NW, it's on.
 
Last edited:

gbg

Michael Peterson status
Jan 22, 2006
2,005
806
113
Yeah he rolls super low key. He's my friend Tim's brother, us and Graeme all lived in the same apartment complex behind Pat's Liquor. I mean we're talking 18 years ago days but you know a kid/guy named Mason? Blond nutcase. I still have a score to settle with him haha. Fucker laid duct tape across bottom foot of bedroom door with thumbtacks strewn beyond it. But I did learn an evil prank as a result. And I have so, so many already.

I had to get out of OB. Things got out of hand and all of a sudden my place turned into every fucking miscreant's flop house. Thank god weed is legal now. None of that bullshit. Different story for different days.

Clay is a very solid surfer and I am stocked to hear that he's still killing it. Great guy. Definitely tell him I said hi.

That spot I named? If nothing has changed, there are 30 people out. 30 of them are buoys and don't count as people. I still remember this one time Stevo, Tim, and I paddled out, solid OH+ day (8 -12' faces), I think I was leashless too, everyone was sitting on mid-shoulder. We tried to be respectful and not paddle over the top of them and wait in "line" but after 2 minutes, realized that was stupid. I don't even know, 15, 20 clean barrels and everything in between on relative flats across over course of the sesh with everyone staring stupidly and then just paddling around them like they didn't exist. L******* is different but that spot? Pfft.

That sesh in CBad was fun. I also knew (because you definitely can surf) that I had to get that one frontside reentry in somewhat decent in front of you to save some face. :roflmao:

Yeah, man, solid NW, it's on.
You win the award for the most vile disgusting flop house. Vomit. I did not even want to sit in your sofa.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MathDebater

Senor Sopa

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 11, 2015
436
374
63
Ponto
I knew the waves were small, so I waited for the tide to come in. Went down to "Cracks" at 10:30. Caught a bunch with one other guy out. Water was warm, 15-20' visibility. The windswell broke up the leftovers from the south swell making for fun right and left peaks. Caught one right where it was all about going fast, and one left with three different varieties of lip hittage.

The beach was pretty full, cuz the high tide was pushing peeps up against the cliff. From the water I could see wave bouncing off where the family died last year. While walking down the beach, there was a four pack of lady paddle boarders. Later on, a different lady paddled out by me. Let's just say the Coffey girls butts aint very big...

Overall, waves were meager but fun. I plan on a redo today.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,095
5,383
113
The Bar
You win the award for the most vile disgusting flop house. Vomit. I did not even want to sit in your sofa.
Thank god - kept it from getting crabs.

It was the war zone. People were shooting heroin and meth right outside. Who cared?
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,500
1,371
113
Secret sandbar #1
Waist to HH , peaky and hollow , good rights / short lefts
Couple head dips , some turns, lots of fun
Dolphins put on a show
I got vip front row parking
Heading to buy lotto tickets now :) lololol

Thanks mother nature , I needed that
 

TheEl

Nep status
Oct 31, 2010
747
301
63
Secret sandbar #1
Waist to HH , peaky and hollow , good rights / short lefts
Couple head dips , some turns, lots of fun
Dolphins put on a show
I got vip front row parking
Heading to buy lotto tickets now :) lololol

Thanks mother nature , I needed that
Big money no whammies!