*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[Aruka]

Surfed our little creek mouth peak the past couple evenings. Yesterday was pretty jumbled and difficult with a lot of leftover windswell crossing everything up. Rode the Fling as a trusty and kind of struggled. Dunno if it was a little overpowered or what but I was diggin rail and just overall not feeling it. Came in and grabbed the avocado green Lightbender twinny and got a couple fun ones right away. Didn't stay out long but got a few more decent waves and ended the session on a high note. My girlfriend had come with me and she picked a big container of blackberries while I was surfing and then made a cobbler when we got home. So good.

This evening was much cleaner and a fresh swell was filling in. Rode the Avobender again. The sand bar has changed and maybe not for the better but there was still some really fun wedges and running walls to be had. It was my best friends birthday and it was just him and I. I was stocked for him to get some fun waves on his birthday. A fog bank moved in as we were leaving, giving me doubts about my fantasy of a morning session.

 

[retodd]

Softcore surf novelist must be job #2

 

[silentbutdeadly]

two fun ones in teh beginning then it pretty much shut down

 

[oeste858]

Out in Avalon, NJ for a week with my wife's family at the Shore. No board. Rainstorms the last 3-4 days. Woke up this morning to sun and some pretty clean, chest-high beach break while playing with the kids at the 35th St. Blown out by 10am. Kicking myself for not renting a board for the week. Might have to see what the local shop has and try to do some early am sessions.

 

[chilly1]

Random, I was just purusing the design forum when there was mention of a Mackie board, and it rang a bell. I was checking a failly remote state beach first light about a month ago. Gate locked I parked there and walked across the lot. it was cold, dark and waves looked bad head high. I turned around to see a kid maybe 20 had hiked from the lot up the hill. Said hi, he had never been here before. He had a fish that looked like one of those snowboard fishes and the tail looked like plywood glassed on, I asked him about it and he said he had found it in a trash can! I looked at the logo under a lot of dirt and wax could make out a Mack. Looks like the kid stumbled upon a pretty cool board! I wished him good luck and halfway to the car turned around to see him getting pounded and already about 100 yards down the beach and thought to myself how refreshing that this kid has no idea or preconceived notions about anything a more experienced surfer has, he's just going out, stoked, and figuring it out along the way.

 

[b.r.]

water is warm again, timed it right, rode the lb for hour and a half in trunks and caught a ton of waves. one week before back to work.....

 

[teeroi]

Paddled out in the dark at the regular. First wave too deep. Next one was a bigger one that tubed but closed out so I just pulled through. Third times a charm. Told Kyle I’m going and got a fun one all the way in. Rode the new 5’10 Tokoro X2 with the thumbtail. Second surf on it and it rides different from the squash tail version so still getting it dialed. Got a couple of really good ones after that. Head high plus and clean. Wanted to go in by 7am and a set rolls in. Gregg was up but I started paddling. He goes where you going. I told him I’m going in. I paddled under him and said for real I’m going in. It was a nugget. I yelled thanks Gregg and got the finger. Couple minutes later I saw him get a sick one. Haha.

 

[Aruka]

Post work surf at the creek mouth. The lady came so she could walk the beach and scope out a property she's been fantasizing about. There was a line of fog on the horizon that wrapped around to the North and the South. We were in a bubble of sunshine. The waves were similar size to yesterday but less clean and more closed out. Maybe more West angle in the swell. Rode the Rusty Hatchet w/ NVS AM2 sides and Peregrine center fin. This board has been hot and cold for me and I haven't ridden it in months. I figured I should give it another shot before I move it along. I had a couple odd moments but overall given the conditions it felt pretty good. I think this is a good fin combo for it. The Hatchet always felt best a thruster and I think it was when I started experimenting with quad sets that I started to suffer inconsistencies. I surfed the creek mouth for a while and then I came in and walked to the South end of the beach and tried a different peak I'd been curious about. The rights were lame but I got a few lefts that stood up enough for a turn or two. My last wave was small and yet had a nice pocket and I got two turns and a cheeky little rock n roll floater to finish. I'll take it.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

might have been the most crowded I've ever seen the beach mid-week.

I was grumpy and was going to go home but two buddies were going out and were making fun me so I paddled. Ended up with a handful dodging the thick crowd.

fuse felt great. water is toasty.

 

[sdsrfr]

With slow summer waves sometimes the crowd can provide a nice slalom course to challenge your line.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

With slow summer waves sometimes the crowd can provide a nice slalom course to challenge your line.

The level of talent today was as close to zero as it comes.

 

[MathDebater]

Floaters

 

[Aruka]

Floaters

how freaking dare you

 

[Havoc]

Uber crowded and annoying with lots of backpaddling and drop is. Lame. Got 2 waves and then walked back to the main peak. All the aholez got out and it was just a bunch of the regulars trading waves. Got a bunch of fun ones and then a solid hh teepee came right to me. Roll in drop straight in bottom turn and lean hard into a fs hack and board came around clean, pump to the inside section and smack it. Best wave of the summer. Got out after that. I’m catching less waves as I’m old as fk now but I’m doing some of the best turns of my life. Mayhem quiver killer ftw!

 

[Oceanslide]

Mostly not very good, soft but clean waves this morning with obslop, but got ONE absolute runner of a head-high left that just ROPED down the line on the 7’6” HPTC...high lines across walls to swooping down to high line for days before finally fattening up. Probably the best wave I’ve had in months and made the session!!

 

[teeroi]

Paddled out in the dark on the 5’10 Tokoro X2. Sat a little more on the shoulder and got three good ones before dawn. Waves were good, best in a while. Was in a good rotation and scored some rippable head high plus waves. Of course when it was time for me to go in I got caught in a lull. Finally a bomb rolls in and a longboarder who just paddled out whips on it. Gregg starts paddling but I was going no matter what. He pulls back and says you know what to do. I dive bombed the logger and made him straighten out. Rode the wave all the way in. I was thinking of paddling back out and giving him an earful but just went in. My friend Yuko saw me in the parking lot and asked was that you on the green board that dropped in on Ken. I said yep. She gave me a smile and the happy clap dance. She and her husband hate that donkey along with most of the regulars.

 

[Senor Sopa]

Paddled out in the dark on the 5’10 Tokoro X2. Sat a little more on the shoulder and got three good ones before dawn. Waves were good, best in a while. Was in a good rotation and scored some rippable head high plus waves. Of course when it was time for me to go in I got caught in a lull. Finally a bomb rolls in and a longboarder who just paddled out whips on it. Gregg starts paddling but I was going no matter what. He pulls back and says you know what to do. I dive bombed the logger and made him straighten out. Rode the wave all the way in. I was thinking of paddling back out and giving him an earful but just went in. My friend Yuko saw me in the parking lot and asked was that you on the green board that dropped in on Ken. I said yep. She gave me a smile and the happy clap dance. She and her husband hate that donkey along with most of the regulars.

Is the dive bomb when the guy's already trimming, or does this happen at takeoff? The delayed bottom turn until the very last moment, no way guys making it, love it.

Surfed PPP for 45 minutes at 1:30 today. Biggest ones were jibbly high, but I was caught inside by those. Sitting pretty far out for such small waves. If not for the chop, probably could've got a bash in or two, but the chop was brutal. Most waves would pretend to have a "wall" and then enter deep water. Managed a few swoops with maintained speed. Only two other kids out on WaveStorms.

This morning at 6, there were 10 guys out, 4 of them were SUF'ers (foilers) and it was onshore. I think the the waves were still better than what i got. I'll make a better effort manana.

 

[gbg]

Mostly not very good, soft but clean waves this morning with obslop, but got ONE absolute runner of a head-high left that just ROPED down the line on the 7’6” HPTC...high lines across walls to swooping down to high line for days before finally fattening up. Probably the best wave I’ve had in months and made the session!!

I just stopped looking.

I have surfed once since July 5th. And that day was waist high.

IB has been polluted and windy.

 

[Aruka]

Back to the creek. Smaller today and even less clean. It was decidedly not good. Rode the Hatchet again. Felt stiff with the NVS fins in the small crappy waves so I swapped for the HS1's and it felt better. Got like 3 turns the whole session. Was trying to end the session with a sick floater just to trigger mathdebater but the waves were so bad I finally gave up lol

 

[teeroi]

Is the dive bomb when the guy's already trimming, or does this happen at takeoff? The delayed bottom turn until the very last moment, no way guys making it, love it.

Haha. I just used that term cause it’s descriptive of my drop in. He was mid bottom turn and I was dropping in with no f*cks given. If he didn’t alter course I was landing on top of him. Neal has a pic of this donkey somewhere on his pic a day thread. Gregg gave him the nickname Not-a-Ken. Like oh no not again. Get it.