Went to South County, kinda in between two spots. Mostly just to let kids burn some energy and have fun. Waves were mostly ankle to knee high shoredump, maybe a thigh high one every once in a while. Medium tide, breaking close to sand. Just felt good to get out there and relax, fart around. Chased down one right that was OK, had a little section from the oncoming closeout left before it dumped. Bottom turned to do a closeout reentry before looking back over my left shoulder as I was about to hit it and remembered oh yeah, it's 6 inches deep. Ejected mid re-entry, planted my ass in the sand pretty much. And my kids thought it was hilarious as they were playing in their homemade sand swimming pool right there. Good times.
Maybe tomorrow have something to offer? There were some forerunners coming in early afternoon but the tide was too high for it to matter.
Maybe tomorrow have something to offer? There were some forerunners coming in early afternoon but the tide was too high for it to matter.