*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,679
20,891
113
The Bar
Went to South County, kinda in between two spots. Mostly just to let kids burn some energy and have fun. Waves were mostly ankle to knee high shoredump, maybe a thigh high one every once in a while. Medium tide, breaking close to sand. Just felt good to get out there and relax, fart around. Chased down one right that was OK, had a little section from the oncoming closeout left before it dumped. Bottom turned to do a closeout reentry before looking back over my left shoulder as I was about to hit it and remembered oh yeah, it's 6 inches deep. Ejected mid re-entry, planted my ass in the sand pretty much. And my kids thought it was hilarious as they were playing in their homemade sand swimming pool right there. Good times.

Maybe tomorrow have something to offer? There were some forerunners coming in early afternoon but the tide was too high for it to matter.
 

Senor Sopa

Billy Hamilton status
Mar 11, 2015
1,366
2,176
113
Ponto
Modern day record for me, five days in a row. We can debate the quality of those sessions. My average time for door to door was 1 hour. Starting on Wednesday, water warmed up, went out at Boulders, biggest wave was maybe jibbly high. Wind swell was waist high at 8 seconds. Only one out, lot's of waves, pretty fun. Next day, had to walk a bit further, went out at Crack's. Was smaller, but more fun. Friday, a bit bigger, so I went to PPP, no wetsuit. It was fun due to waves sloshing/bending/combining into more than they really were. Pretty high tide, sitting so far inside, I could yell at the fisherman on the jetty. Yesterday, there were some semblance of south swells, lots more slosh, was able to get some impressions of speed and then the goal was length of ride, I was channeling my inner Skip Frye, seeing how far I could traverse on a shin high nothing. Today the waves were not good at PPP, the windswell was gone, only occasional reverse breaking peaks, could only stand it for five waves.

FYI: Boulders and Cracks are no more spots than "Brown house" or "Third Telephone Pole" at your local spot.

My wife invited some friends over, one lady (she's 35) said she surfed Black's today. This is her quote, "fun at chest high and locals were saying lady's first". I caught unrideable at chest high, how humiliating.

In five sessions, had to share waves twice with two people for about 10 minutes. There are some good points to surfing the worst possible spots.

You need to get your nooner in one way or another!
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular the last two days. Yesterday was weekend crowded and the swell was fading. Got a couple of fun ones and tried the Tokoro HP twin without the trailer. It felt a little less drivey but looser. Should’ve tried it when the waves were better.

Took my Moonfish out this morning. Got a right that I don’t think I’ve gone any slower on a wave. Haha. Mostly just talking crap with the regulars and old timers I haven’t seen in awhile.

The crew has been going to $5 Bentos at Kewalo Basin/ Fisherman’s Wharf. They open at 8 so I’ve been either too early or too much in a rush. But got a couple of bentos today. Blackened Ahi with a scoop of rice and corn. The other plate was snapper. Food was decent and filling and $5 each. They have a fish dish everyday, shoyu chicken, adobo, hamburger steak and a combo. Worth it. They are under a tent right as you pull in the basin parking can’t miss the big sign.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,511
113
PNW
Wind blown and ugly this evening. Fairly solid swell. Decided to paddle at a spot that I've never surfed because it looked kind of clean inside the kelp beds. Rights were bending away mostly but occasionally they would wall up and run for a bit. Got a bunch of fun drops, a few turns. A random left came through and it was easily my best wave. Steep and bending inwards as it tapered towards the beach. Two good turns. Stocked. Album Insanity as a quad. Felt good. Stiffer than as a twin + trailer but loads of drive and hold through turns.
 

MathDebater

Michael Peterson status
Apr 13, 2016
2,580
6,118
113
SD
Surfed a micro reef that often has good shape in the summer with just two dudes yesterday. Most of the waves weren’t hitting it right but there were a couple of decent sets where I almost remembered how to surf, almost.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,320
113
Oceanside, CA
Not great waves this morning, but better than it's been for a couple weeks at least. Very crowded up the
whole beach. Surfed the new-to-me vBowls for the first time and got a couple of waves outside that sectioned
off pretty quickly, so I moved inside and ended up getting one really long, clean little runner left and another
that didn't stretch as far. Fun trimming across in the pocket. I need to figure out how to surf it, but those 2 waves
were fun on it.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
68,679
20,891
113
The Bar
I guess the swell didn't really fill in as well as hoped this morning. Mostly knee to thigh high with some waist-ish high sets. Surfing that Speed Demon has been like a rejuvenation as it paddles fast and surfs fast but easy to catch rails on it. A shame I haven't had a chance to surf it in anything lately with a little push. Got a couple hacks, closeout reentries, mini-floaters in that were crossed with mushed, close-out failure. Even in a fullsuit, must still be somewhat limber as I backdoored a barrel (all of 0.75 seconds) that was about waist high. Cleanly too. Not sure how I pulled that off. :roflmao:
 

sdsurfrat

Michael Peterson status
Jun 2, 2008
2,583
765
113
Not great waves this morning, but better than it's been for a couple weeks at least. Very crowded up the
whole beach. Surfed the new-to-me vBowls for the first time and got a couple of waves outside that sectioned
off pretty quickly, so I moved inside and ended up getting one really long, clean little runner left and another
that didn't stretch as far. Fun trimming across in the pocket. I need to figure out how to surf it, but those 2 waves
were fun on it.


Wait, did you grow a beard?
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,018
7,171
113
surflines hyping a new south to end the flat spell
but the angle looks too steep for san diego county
except for trestles, which i really consider OC, though it aint
 

TheEl

Billy Hamilton status
Oct 31, 2010
1,377
1,353
113
Better than its been but pretty lully on the sets this morning. Some solid head whips on the mid length. Whoops I mean egg. Wait I mean crutch. Whoa nelly I mean crowd pleaser. Oh dear here we go lets just call it a "I dont give a fuck, surfing is just fun."
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,018
7,171
113
early morning of the hyped swell. still dark but terrible winds on it already, no apparant swell on webcams, i may go anyhow since its ben flat a month
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
11,981
22,511
113
PNW
Yesterday evening was some of the worst "surf" I've subjected myself to in a long time. Nuking onshore winds and a flooded tide. I could see some energy amidst the chop though and I deluded myself into thinking there was some sort of consistent left corner. The waves felt flat and weak when trying to paddle into and surf them but then when I was on the inside trying to get back out they felt powerful and were kicking my butt. Not sure how that works. Tried some larger quad fins on the Insanity and they felt too stiff on the few sections that presented the option for a turn. I did get one end section hit on a right that felt good but also kind of sketchy over the shallow bar. I couldn't shake the feeling that this was the type of surf I'd hurt myself in so I called it after an hour. Got some exercise at least?

Wind is already up today. Maddening.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,487
23,075
113
Tower 13
lully and underwhelming this morning. desperation bar had an ass ton of people when I looked at the cam so I went to novelty reef that wasn't really breaking. ended up at an old sandbar "B" that I haven't surfed in a while. small closeouts with occasional south sets that were worthless.

took the bonzer to get in early. mostly meh but I got a nice wedge left that allowed for a nice line to square up foam bash into another turn and floater.

broke the rules somewhat and finally put a pad on the bonzer egg. Should have done that from the start. Felt so much better. I hate surfing shortboards without a pad
 

sdsrfr

Phil Edwards status
Jul 13, 2020
5,856
11,262
113
San Diego
how long is your bonzer? we may allow it.

mine came to life when I waxed it all the way to the nose. YMMV.
 
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