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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
Dawned the regular but ended up surfing Rockpiles Lefts instead. RPS likes the high tide East swell a little better. It was underwhelming. Got one decent snap and a couple of closeout hits in the hour I surfed. Rode the Vesso twin which is more fishy than my new boards.
When I came in an old Asian lady was crowding into my parking space blowing up her SUP. Jeannie saw from a few stalls over and was enjoying my irritation. It took every ounce of restraint I have not to say something rude. She even texted me a pic to rub it in.
When I came in an old Asian lady was crowding into my parking space blowing up her SUP. Jeannie saw from a few stalls over and was enjoying my irritation. It took every ounce of restraint I have not to say something rude. She even texted me a pic to rub it in.
Couple afternoon rideables waist high with a few slightly better soft peaks
glassy at 3:00 blown at 6:00 water is much warmer. pretty much solo session
glassy at 3:00 blown at 6:00 water is much warmer. pretty much solo session
shoudl have hit me up! pretty sure i wasn't even drinking!Couple afternoon rideables waist high with a few slightly better soft peaks
glassy at 3:00 blown at 6:00 water is much warmer. pretty much solo session
Pretty fun this morning in SLA. Little bump in windswell and crossed up for some fun chest high peaks on the best sets. Crowd was pretty thick, lots of "sorry, I didnt see bro" and one guy tried to get aggro with me after i backpaddled him because he missed the last 3 waves that came to him, but mostly floaters and I def got my fill of waves.
Took out the flare, couple nice little combo hacks on the frontside and one little backside head dip that will go into the spankbank for today.
The water is warming up again nicely - overall great way to start the day.
Took out the flare, couple nice little combo hacks on the frontside and one little backside head dip that will go into the spankbank for today.
The water is warming up again nicely - overall great way to start the day.
Was hoping there might be something out there but pretty meager. Knee to thigh high, maybe a waist high wave here and there. Pretty much dogsh*t surf but I surfed like dogsh*t so at least I was in rhythm with the ocean in that sense. Better days await...
gotta borrow Havoc's mysto swell magnet. Getting desperate down south
Dawned the regular. Another underwhelming session. Rode the Vesso Twin. Which I found out is called the “Love Seat”. This board has been making the small high tide sessions somewhat bareable. Got a couple of roundhouses and swoops off the top. Got a set that was kinda bumpy that I rode all the way and was going to go in on but I had to hoot a long boarder who just paddled out off. So I paddled back out to tell him.
Brah, it’s slow we’re all waiting and taking turns and you just come out and go for the first set. That’s not how. I paddle back into the pack and made some donkey joke to make everyone laugh so he would think they were laughing at him. Wisely he didn’t say a word.
In the parking lot my friend Jordan showed me his new board. Asked if I could touch it and take pics. Shaped and glassed by Tor on the Westside. Resin tint for color. His label is called Prizm Surfboards.
Brah, it’s slow we’re all waiting and taking turns and you just come out and go for the first set. That’s not how. I paddle back into the pack and made some donkey joke to make everyone laugh so he would think they were laughing at him. Wisely he didn’t say a word.
In the parking lot my friend Jordan showed me his new board. Asked if I could touch it and take pics. Shaped and glassed by Tor on the Westside. Resin tint for color. His label is called Prizm Surfboards.
had a rare sighting of others paddlers in the water last night. ended up turning my four miler into sever with a coupke fun bumps to coast in on. nada downwind crazy, but more than good enough. wind, air, sky, water, whatever else...all epic. turned my head a hair too late...one of the otehrs saw a plume blast in the not so far distance. even made it back in time before the gf did. i can handle her mad about the dirnking....but i wont hea r adamn word about paddling!
Dawned the regular. Waves were head high plus and the swell was mixed but not crossed up. Small high tide. Crowded. Best waves in a month.
Took the new 5’10 Tokoro X2 out. Got a wave in the dark and the board felt fast. The thumb tail feels a little less loose than the squash tail X2 I’ve been riding. But in a good way. Best wave so far Gregg was up and he paddled for the first wave of a set. I could see a bigger one in the back and once he committed I start laughing. Another regular, Kawika goes that’s an evil laugh. My wave was a couple feet bigger and Greggs wave drained some water off the reef. Bottomed turned into a top turn swoop, squared off the bottom and went vert, bottom turn into layback hack. Saw Gregg way inside and aimed for him, he was going to shoot his board at me so I pulled through. He asked how was your wave, didn’t you hear me laughing after you committed. Hahaha.
Took the new 5’10 Tokoro X2 out. Got a wave in the dark and the board felt fast. The thumb tail feels a little less loose than the squash tail X2 I’ve been riding. But in a good way. Best wave so far Gregg was up and he paddled for the first wave of a set. I could see a bigger one in the back and once he committed I start laughing. Another regular, Kawika goes that’s an evil laugh. My wave was a couple feet bigger and Greggs wave drained some water off the reef. Bottomed turned into a top turn swoop, squared off the bottom and went vert, bottom turn into layback hack. Saw Gregg way inside and aimed for him, he was going to shoot his board at me so I pulled through. He asked how was your wave, didn’t you hear me laughing after you committed. Hahaha.
The morning dawned calm, warm and cloudy. The clouds began to break up by the time I paddled out alone down at the open beaches. I chose a sluffy outside peak that I've been curious about for months but have yet to surf. I didn't want lollygag since the tide was rushing in and with the smaller size I knew it would flood before long so after seeing one fun looking set I suited up. First few waves were really fun. Chest high and kind of soft but the Album fish was eating it up. It was actually kinda nice to surf this board in something soft and slow compared to the racy little runners we've been getting. Got a few backside roundhouse cutties that felt really good. A buddy arrived right as the tide started to kill the outside peak so we moved in and got some good right handers that ran along the inside bar. Eventually that started to get slow as well so we walked North up the beach and sampled a few peaks along the way. We found another right rip bowl that was fun but short lived. The complete tidal flood coincided with onshore winds and it all swiftly went to sh!t.
Crazy-arse shingle rivermouth surf last week. Too fast and slabby for me, and about 3ft deep. Holy smoke, that was a humbling experience. But then, the super ripper never made any of the rights either, so I can live with it. At least I didn't snap my Ghost, but I had shingle in my wettie and a nice scrape on my nose and mouth.
5 days of longboard waves in town, then the local banner wave solid OH on the 6'2 Byrning Spears 6-channel. Uncrowded and warm. Very very good day.
Surfed out now, and feeling good about it.
Have a good weekend, guys!
5 days of longboard waves in town, then the local banner wave solid OH on the 6'2 Byrning Spears 6-channel. Uncrowded and warm. Very very good day.
Surfed out now, and feeling good about it.
Have a good weekend, guys!
Dawned the regular. Paddled out on the Tokoro HP twin with the training wheel on. I was going to try it just as a twin again but I forgot to put a fin key in my pocket. Waves were a little smaller but yesterday and today were the best waves in a few weeks minus the hour or so of good hurricane surf. Fell on a little tube and a couple of layback snaps. But got some lip bashes and roundhouses. The board comes around faster than my other boards and draws a tighter arc so been getting used to that. But I made a couple of long shots that my friends thought I was going to be too deep. Found the gas pedal with the little trailer. I think it widens the sweet spot. Swell fading not sure what to ride tomorrow. Hopefully more swell next week.
Not pretty this morning. A brown sea with side winds. After driving a half hour I felt obligated to paddle. Ended up getting a few fun ones. Fresh swell. Overhead but short interval. Got a layback against an oncoming section that felt pretty good. Water cooled down. Wore my thin gloves and my hands still got cold. Wind came up hard by midday. I wanted to surf again in the evening after the swell really filled in but the wind never cooled off and it looked terrible.
Went out this morning in some gutless micro crap. Folks were struggling on soft tops, but managed to get a couple that actually kinda stood up. Good news is that the water has warmed up quite a bit and would have been fine in trunks and a top.
junky small windswell on the sub but felt good after being away from the coast for almost a couple of weeks.