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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
fun city right there toobz
back to the normal. Can't remember the last time I surfed there. wonky windswell with a couple of good opportunities on the fuse. surprisingly empty until about 8 but had to go in anyway.
back to the normal. Can't remember the last time I surfed there. wonky windswell with a couple of good opportunities on the fuse. surprisingly empty until about 8 but had to go in anyway.
Was having a fun session until my board was hit with spontaneous fcs2 fin ejection. Oh well.
took my son bodyboarding in the morning to avoid the crowds and with the 60 degree water and fog rolling in he was over it after 3 waves.
went back at lunchtime and sat around for two hours in clean but ultra weak windswell that would mostly die out which produced a single, clean backside schralp. most packed i have EVER seen the local beach.
went back at lunchtime and sat around for two hours in clean but ultra weak windswell that would mostly die out which produced a single, clean backside schralp. most packed i have EVER seen the local beach.
After a morning family hike, wife gave me an unprompted green light to go surf- she must’ve known it was tiny, onshore, and freezing. Was barely breaking at the local reefs. Wore 3mil + booties... in August! 4 guys out. Just about managed 6-7 questionable micro waves on GMM2. No turns, just trying to stay with the 6" waves. Completely unremarkable.
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went through an interesting situation. so stoked to be able to. so stoked to have awesome people having my back (ulusurfer/zander, tim, mike, the whole waterman's crew). not only do they spread stoke and motivate, their vibes comfuckingpletely counter and destroy the negative vibes from all the jock cool guys, competitive douches, and hipster f()cks. so stoked to have this life. i must have been scandalous and jacked it from someone else....i most def don't deserve it
Horrible, stupid cold, and insanely crowded by 9am locally. Win!
Surfed a jetty wave up North yesterday in the morning. Waves weren't amazing but there was some nearly head high sets and only a few guys out. Got a bunch of waves and had a pretty good session overall. Rode the new Album fish and played around with a set of more upright twins which felt really good. Water was so fuggin cold and I didn't wear gloves so my hands froze.
Evening time I went South because it was still glassy and I was hoping the swell hadn't completely died. Back to the creek mouth peak. Saw a fun looking set when I arrived and suited right up. Tide was perfect and the wave was really doing it when I first got out there. The lefts were standing up outside and then bending across the bar and allowing for an early entry behind the peak and a few turns as the wave gathered up and ran down the line. Not so much as a puff of wind and the sun was out. The water was really nice too. Crazy how much it varies just 30 miles from where I surfed in the morning. A buddy arrived and he posted up on the right side of the peak. I was happy to take the left as they had a steeper face and a more ripable pocket. Album twinny felt great. Stocked to finally surf again. Probably was waves there today but I had to work.
Evening time I went South because it was still glassy and I was hoping the swell hadn't completely died. Back to the creek mouth peak. Saw a fun looking set when I arrived and suited right up. Tide was perfect and the wave was really doing it when I first got out there. The lefts were standing up outside and then bending across the bar and allowing for an early entry behind the peak and a few turns as the wave gathered up and ran down the line. Not so much as a puff of wind and the sun was out. The water was really nice too. Crazy how much it varies just 30 miles from where I surfed in the morning. A buddy arrived and he posted up on the right side of the peak. I was happy to take the left as they had a steeper face and a more ripable pocket. Album twinny felt great. Stocked to finally surf again. Probably was waves there today but I had to work.
smaller still with some flukey wind. surfable on the grovel shortboard (twin+trailer). no crowd.
Foggy and gloomy this morning but not much wind at least. Waves were about knee to thigh high with a couple waist to chest high sets sneaking through. Kinda glad my usual board was in the shop as it would have been pretty slow on that board. Dug the 6'6'" Lost Speed Demon out of the rafters. I haven't surfed it in a while since it is pretty thin (2 7/16") and a bit fragile. Already been buckled a couple times. But man, that was the board to surf today since it doesn't have too much rocker. More than a few waves were composed of pumping to generate some speed on the smaller ones to little avail. But did get a couple fun runners, able to get a small turn or two in. Chased down the best left that came in while I was out there, got three little hacks on it, and was quite pleased with that considering waves were meager. Fun sesh overall.
Went to battle the groms at salt creek yesterday. It was small and crowded, but got a couple of funnish ones before the tide switched and the wind picked up.
Couldn’t see anything on the cams this morning and the report didn’t inspire much confidence. It turned out to be pretty clean, peaky, and with a light crowd. Giggle box ftw
Couldn’t see anything on the cams this morning and the report didn’t inspire much confidence. It turned out to be pretty clean, peaky, and with a light crowd. Giggle box ftw
A small bump in the swell was the forecast today. I got up early and ate, stretched then drove to check the creek mouth. A fog bank was parked on the coast. From the parking lot the waves looked ghostly and small. I drove home.
The fog burned off in the afternoon and a little bump started showing on the buoy. The air was warm and the ocean was shimmering blue glass as I drove back to the spot. A rare day. I could see some energy in the ocean below as I traversed the 101 and I knew our little sand bar would have waves.
I was the first one in the water and got a handful of fun ones before my two friends arrived half an hour later. The tide was a little high still for the main peak but there was a rip bowl to the North offering steep double up rights and there was consistent assortment of random peaks popping up here and there. Chest high or so. Not a lot of sitting and waiting. Plenty of scrambling around and spinning on quickly appearing corners. As the tide dropped the main left started working and I clued in in on it before anyone else. I got a few longer bowling waves across the bar that were really fun. Eventually they followed me down the beach and we took turns on the corner which kept improving as the tide drained. We hooted each other into waves and said, "go, go, go" when we were too deep ourselves. We surfed for a long time and eventually the tide turned and slowed the wave flow. A random traveling surfer paddled out on a longboard and sat directly outside us and then scrambled for the first wave to come through. My buddy burned him and then I gave him some advice on his way by. Wait your turn or find your own peak. He reckoned that peak up the beach looked pretty good and he didn't bother us again. We were pretty well done anyways. Waited for a fun one in and called it. Rode the Album Lightbender again. It felt great, especially on the good, juicy ones. Felt like I was getting my foot back over the fins better and got a few spicy shnappers on both the for and backhand. I'm definitely digging the more upright template for tiger shreds. Stocked on this boar so far.
My main amigo and I hit up a blackberry patch on our way back to the highway. As we filled our improvised containers we heard crashing and then watched as a herd of elk emerged from the forest across the way. They grazed along the treeline in the field opposite us. They were all cows (female) with a couple youngins in tow. Gangly little buggers but still pretty cute. Glad there are still some healthy herds around.
The fog burned off in the afternoon and a little bump started showing on the buoy. The air was warm and the ocean was shimmering blue glass as I drove back to the spot. A rare day. I could see some energy in the ocean below as I traversed the 101 and I knew our little sand bar would have waves.
I was the first one in the water and got a handful of fun ones before my two friends arrived half an hour later. The tide was a little high still for the main peak but there was a rip bowl to the North offering steep double up rights and there was consistent assortment of random peaks popping up here and there. Chest high or so. Not a lot of sitting and waiting. Plenty of scrambling around and spinning on quickly appearing corners. As the tide dropped the main left started working and I clued in in on it before anyone else. I got a few longer bowling waves across the bar that were really fun. Eventually they followed me down the beach and we took turns on the corner which kept improving as the tide drained. We hooted each other into waves and said, "go, go, go" when we were too deep ourselves. We surfed for a long time and eventually the tide turned and slowed the wave flow. A random traveling surfer paddled out on a longboard and sat directly outside us and then scrambled for the first wave to come through. My buddy burned him and then I gave him some advice on his way by. Wait your turn or find your own peak. He reckoned that peak up the beach looked pretty good and he didn't bother us again. We were pretty well done anyways. Waited for a fun one in and called it. Rode the Album Lightbender again. It felt great, especially on the good, juicy ones. Felt like I was getting my foot back over the fins better and got a few spicy shnappers on both the for and backhand. I'm definitely digging the more upright template for tiger shreds. Stocked on this boar so far.
My main amigo and I hit up a blackberry patch on our way back to the highway. As we filled our improvised containers we heard crashing and then watched as a herd of elk emerged from the forest across the way. They grazed along the treeline in the field opposite us. They were all cows (female) with a couple youngins in tow. Gangly little buggers but still pretty cute. Glad there are still some healthy herds around.
the ping pong water temp got me again, was so cold the other day i put on my 4/3 today and took the longboard out. had to unzip and pull off the turtleneck because i was getting so hot, got a lot of little waves and the newish kenson yum yum yellow 9'4 was so fun.
couple fun ones today. got super packed but the crowd left me alone for te most part. fling ftw!
Dawned the regular yesterday. Much better than Sunday but these little waves are hurting my knee. It takes way more energy to ride small waves since I’m not into riding a longboard. Got a couple of fun ones on the Vesso twin.
round 2 today. chest+ on sets. rode the mantra and stayed out til i couldnt paddle anymore. got a nice full speed fs wrap l, couple floats, hirs, and carves. kooked it on a couple towards end of the sesh as i was gassed out. crowd circled me but stayed away again. i love the feeling of being surfed out. got enough to get me through the week. looks bigger next week.
