*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,140
9,388
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular on the 5’10 X2. Waves were really fun but lully. Much more crowded than yesterday but after one long lull and a clean up set it became more manageable. Some waves a little overhead. It was nice riding a performance board after riding the cheater yesterday. Easier to square up and go vert. Got some combos I was happy with. Snap then square up and hit the lip. Got a quick barrel on a wave that was almost too big for the low tide. The bigger ones after mine all shut down. Best part was my friend Glen paddled out and goes nice barrel. Gregg goes you got barrelled on that wave, SH*T. It’s always more fun when someone else claims it for you. Haha.
 

Muscles

Michael Peterson status
Jun 1, 2013
2,600
3,611
113
California/Hawaii
Finished my board today. Fully sanded. Set the leash plug and installed some twin keels. My intent was to make something like the CI fishbeard. The outline isn't perfect. I accidentally chunked a piece off the nose so it's crooked. lol. Glassing is hard but I managed to get it somewhat presentable. At least for a board that was built in someone's backyard. Going to try to surf it tomorrow. We'll see how it goes.

I did learn a lot though. I think my next board will go much better.
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,140
9,388
113
eastside oahu
Dawned the regular with the 5’10 X2. Waves were smaller than yesterday and slow but when they rolled in there were a bunch in the set and the waves were good. I only stayed out a little over an hour. Got 3 good ones and fell 2 of them trying to go vert and poking on the reo. The one I made got 3 solid turns and proned in.

At least 3 guys had a very bad start to their week. They got a 36 foot sailboat hung up on the reef in front of Rockpiles. HFD rescued them but the boat is on its side waiting for the afternoon high tide. Hopefully it can stay in one piece and get towed off. The high tide is pretty big for Hawaii. Forgot to get a pic in the daylight, but got one when I pulled up. I texted Jeannie there’s a boat stuck on the reef and the parking lot is swarming with firemen. Bring your camera and wear something sexy. Haha

BF2E6CC9-7FE5-47C4-8DDC-E2AA021058A6.jpeg
 

CutnSnip

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2018
5,954
6,351
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Finally some surf-able waves near home. Took out the 6'8 spegg in what was probably thee most crowded Ive ever seen my local on any day, let alone a two foot Tuesday.

A couple chest high peaks coming through on the push, got a few good corners while dodging a ton of clueless people and trying not to kill anyone or get myself killed. Nothing super memorable - just cruising on the funboard but the water felt warm and it was better than sleeping in. Got the eff out of there when I saw the wavestorm brigade approaching my peak.
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,946
3,108
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
wife's birthday yesterday so we went on a hike in rancho santa fe and peered into homes of the uber rich, then she wanted to go to the local beachbreak and surf a wave (hasn't surfed in years and years) got a primo spot on the quiet end of the beach, i paddled out and immediately wished i had my 4/3 damn the water was cold, pelicans were divebombing all around me as i caught a couple little right hand runners, then as i paddled back out after a wave two little seals came charging right at me, then four more pelicans dive bombed me, (now this is where i saw a big shark breach last week and i'm sitting in murky water with bait balls all around) dolphins rushed by and jumped out the back of a wave, ocean was alive! and freakin cold,
i'm thinking my wife is gonna be pissed if i get attacked by a shark on her birthday, my spring suit was not helping my comfort level either and i lasted about 45 minutes, got the big INT ready for my wife and as soon as she touched the water she said hell NO! so i dodged that bullet, drank a cold one and chilled under the umbrella and took a nap listening to tunes, love our monday beach days..
gonna dig around and look for my 4/3
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
7,103
17,663
113
San Diego, CA
@b.r. Is there a good hike in Rancho? Where do you start? We just did a little hike in Del Mar Heights on Sat for my wife's bday with the dog & 2 groms. We ended up carrying them 80% of the time, so we were exhausted by noon. We never made it to the beach in the afternoon. Waves have been so flat the past week, I haven't even bothered. Trying to catch up on some work projects. Jealous of you more core division guys who can motivate for the knee-slappers on offer lately. Even the idea of cruisin on the 9'6 log doesn't do it for me. Need some swell so I can try out some undersurfed boards and see if I can thin the herd a bit... gotta get down to that 4-board quiver!
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,140
9,388
113
eastside oahu
Wasn’t going to surf cause it’s dropping. It rained really hard and woke me up after midnight so I figured go for surf while the house were working on dries out. Glad I did. Dawned the regular on my Vesso twin fin. Waves were super fun and the crowd was just the hard core dawn patrol crew. Shared waves, talked crap, Jeannie paddle out to a pod of dolphins and they cruised all around her. She paddled back crying she was so happy. Got some good turns in and a bunch of waves. Fell on a couple trying to slide the tail. Only bummer was the water smelled like diesel from the boat CFA9D25A-B49D-4379-A3E1-63F07446F295.jpeg