*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Tanner

Phil Edwards status
Jul 30, 2003
7,184
662
113
Point Loma
Visit site
Went to Tanner's yesterday to borrow one of his griff's and he surprised me with a Parmy widowmaker that belonged to the late Festus Porkmeyer. It felt weird taking it but honored as well. Rode it in overhead walls this morning and got a handful of gems. Festus was nice enough to throw me a nice toob so I was stocked as can be. Thanks Tanner, it put a smile on my face.
This brings a smile to my face as well, and I know ol' Porky is super stoked right now!
 

b.r.

Phil Edwards status
Dec 19, 2003
5,921
3,033
113
Leucadia
www.youtube.com
waited for tide to get lower, paddled out and as the tide turned it was starting to show potential, couple fast ones got a speed run on the kenson double wing twinzer and saw a friend on beach, getting ready to paddle out, by the time he made it outside it was victory at sea! howling, so caught one in and decided to grade papers. happy martin luther king jr. day...
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Sunday, 11 ft at 17 seconds. Horizon starting to show but not break...when it starts to break, the sandbars closer to shore get wonky.

7 AM, more or less at max flood. Winds offshore. Inside current pushing south.

Good lulls for the outside but the inside was not so nice on the 8'6", though once outside, the extra paddle speed was plenty nice.

Just two others where I was when I finally got outside, but we were all about a 3/4 a block apart. Maybe some further north at the bigger peaks there were a few more. Decided to use the paddling muscles I have left to catch waves and stay in position...sigh, what is happening to me? Where is the drive?

Got a quick easy left, the confidence builder, followed by the 'why did I trouble myself?" sprint back outside. Avoiding getting mashed gave a me a bit more confidence and served the usual reminder that even I do get a good ride, nothing is free.

Another left was all drop, and easy paddle back.

Long wall could have stayed open, but I wussed out then had to sprint to get the hell out of the way of the rest of the set. That moment when I popped over the back and the offshore driven spray fell like rain filled me with nostalgia for other similar moments.

Then a bunch of waiting and me being cautious and not being in the right place no matter where I paddled. Hmmm, maybe a few others around would have helped me suss out the line-up better. Maybe the tide change had something to do with things as well.

A big right was all drop and one bottom turn with minor clobbering...so much for that 'take the 3rd wave' and you'll be fine crap...stupid 8 wave set.

Took me a while to get back out and by then I was way south.

Last wave was smaller than the big two waves that were all drop, but this left walled up super nicely and didn't really back off until just before the inside, which sucked because then I paddle to paddle too much board into a pitching inside overhead grinder. Thankfully got into it early and was able to keep the nose up, but all I did was aim straight in.

Long walk back to the car.

One guy asked me how it was.

"Pretty good," I said, "would have been better if I was better."

At home, ate some peanut butter on waffles and scramble eggs, followed by tree fern trimming.
 

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Sick report, Doof! Glad you made it out and caught some bombs. That afternoon was not so kind to me.

Monday, a different story. Made it out easy around Kirkham and let the current pull me to Noriega, catching a few waves along the way. Enough power and size in the water to give a good rush but nothing scary. Rode my 7'6 as a thruster and got caught behind some sections. Think I'll stick to riding it as a quad. Also got a couple of long, walled-up rights that offered some room to trim and carve. Love putting a big board on rail in powerful waves. The speed and drive is addictive. Looks like we'll have some XL swell with good winds later in the week.
 
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oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,272
113
San Diego, CA
Thanks to a stomach bug last week, and family commitments over the weekend, I had my first surf in a week. Waited for the early AM high tide to drop, and hit the local reef when I saw a good set outside mid morning. Rights were a bit soft to start and had to keep fading and cutting back on the first couple. But lined up better as the tide got lower, swell definitely building and was close to HH by the time I got out after picking off about 5 long ones that swung wide just south of the main pack. Was riding the beautiful 5'8" Mitsven TKF I got off silentbutdeadly. Perfect for the conditions today. I haven't ridden it much, but it's a really fun, responsive fish: the fins are set further back than my other 5'6" Mitsven fish (maybe 1"), so it rides completely differently and always takes me a couple waves to get used to it. Felt pretty locked in to the wave for a twin.
Stocked to get a couple long rights! :shaka: Okay to post some boardporn here?...

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Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Sick report, Doof! Glad you made it out and caught some bombs. That afternoon was not so kind to me.

Monday, a different story. Made it out easy around Kirkham and let the current pull me to Noriega, catching a few waves along the way. Enough power and size in the water to give a good rush but nothing scary. Rode my 7'6 as a thruster and got caught behind some sections. Think I'll stick to riding it as a quad. Also got a couple of long, walled-up rights that offered some room to trim and carve. Love putting a big board on rail in powerful waves. The speed and drive is addictive. Looks like we'll have some XL swell with good winds later in the week.
Monday...yeah, I heard it was good. In retrospect/with further knowledge, turns out I made the wrong call and tried some place that supposedly works ok on the mild south winds we had in the morning. Some fun, but, from what I can tell, should have called in sick from 11 AM to 2 PM, try my luck at the Beach, then magically get better from 3 to 5 PM.

Good on ya for getting some.

PS
Regarding your bit about 3 v 4 fins.....I switched over to quads for the sake of speed on those racy walls. maybe if I was better could make 3 fins work at going faster (sometimes, I swear on 3 fins I hit some sort of 'top end' and just see that lip go on while I just wait for the inevitable).
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
Got a text that my regular NS spot was good yesterday so I dawned it. It looked small but super clean, light wind. As I was walking down saw my friend Alan walking back. He said it’s small. I told him that’s ok the swell is coming by lunch might be washing thru. So we walked down and went out.

Waves were waist high and a lot better than it looked. Lots of west in the swell which isn’t ideal for this spot but it’s been so windy and rainy that light wind and sunny felt really nice. Waves inched up all morning. Surfed for 4 hours by the time I came in the wind turned a little side shore and there were some wash throughs. I think it’s forecasted to be huge thru the weekend. Glad I got a session in.

Got a couple good turns, went straight up on some end close outs. Still haven’t got more than a quick cover up since the new year started. Haha
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
268
200
43
Big Asian Island
Good wx conditions but sh!t surf. Decided to maintenance surf the knee high wedge. It wedges right up against the tetrapods and pushes out a decently shaped right. Wave count was very high and micro turns were fun enough
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,041
8,978
113
Central California
Sizeable swell in the water, flawless conditions all day, warmish weather.

Pretty much as good as it gets and my dumb ass is stuck at home watching my stupid kids because at 2 and 4 years old, "society" says they're too young to watch themselves. I'm fairly certain if I left them home alone and went for a quick 4 hour surf, they'd survive.

Wear your condoms kids..............because condoms = moar sarfing!
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,107
9,269
113
eastside oahu
NS is too big so I dawned Bowls hoping for a west wrap. Can’t stay in surfing shape eating chips and talking sh*t on Instagram. While talking to friends in the parking lot saw a head high set break at Rockpiles. Out there.

I paddled out to Bowls with Jeannie cause she wanted me to chase the Costco crew away. Soft top riding snowflakes. I get out there and they tried to smile at me but I just glared back and shook my head. They got the message and moved over. Haha. Bowls usually likes west but it was crossed up and soft so I paddled over to Rockpiles.

At first it was slow and the few guys out were complaining about that head high set we all saw from the parking lot but nothing like it since. Then it kinda pulsed.

Best wave I got a little waist high nugget. I saw it hitting the reef good so I paddled hard for it. I was deep and it sectioned in front of me. I got a good pump did a top turn for speed and pumped hard thru the section. Came flying around and did a carve off the top then bottomed turned and tagged the close out. I was Stoked.ed and gave a little woooo. Billie, cute vegan yoga long boarder must’ve heard cause she looked over and smiled. I waved and told her hi.

Then another regular Bruce paddled out and told me he saw that little wave. Said it couldn’t have been a regular Rockpiles crew so he looked if my truck was in the lot. Then at the showers Eric, one of the regulars at the right said he saw that wave too. So funny I got props from my friends on a little waist high nugget like I got spit out of a Big Bowl barrel. Haha.

Small wave fun.
 

Mr Doof

Duke status
Jan 23, 2002
24,850
7,747
113
San Francisco, CA
Morning surf started great with drop, bottom turn, super quick cover-up, accelerate out, carve off bottom, hook back up and do that, umm, what is it it called again, oh, yeah, do some masterful power trimming in the pocket (just a little hunched over).

Then a bunch of not as good rides, a small amount of being trapped on the inside, great red under-lit dawn clouds with following golden butteriness, and last ride was a weird take-off into the clamshell section (escaping with heaps of water on my back) with long mushy ride afterward.

Friend #1 later says his best ride was his last....got to ride it from the outside through to the sand with nary a bit of crumbling in front for the duration of the ride.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,486
23,075
113
Tower 13
First surf on the 6'10" blackbird just to get my feet in the wax. Thought sets were at least overhead but they ended up being chest high or so :confused:

Board has a lot of float and paddles like a dream. I'm a bit worried about it being too wide but we'll see once I take it out in big surf. Like my other blackbird when it was time to turn, it lit up with the hind leg in the rippage spot. Got two nice backside hacks in shoulder high lefts that felt pretty good for being on a 6'10"
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,041
8,978
113
Central California
First surf on the 6'10" blackbird just to get my feet in the wax. Thought sets were at least overhead but they ended up being chest high or so :confused:

Board has a lot of float and paddles like a dream. I'm a bit worried about it being too wide but we'll see once I take it out in big surf. Like my other blackbird when it was time to turn, it lit up with the hind leg in the rippage spot. Got two nice backside hacks in shoulder high lefts that felt pretty good for being on a 6'10"
6'10 in chest high waves?

If I do the math (carry the 1)........ that's the equivalent of riding a 9'0 gun at 1.5x overhead Swamis.

Have you completely given up?