*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[teeroi]

Dawned Ala Mo Rockpiles. It was small waist high maybe some a little bigger but super fun. The tide was lower than a couple days ago so it was standing up. The remaining wind swell which is East hits the Pile good.

RPS is a trippy spot. Lots of girls and surf school. Some guys call it Chickpile. But I like to sit deep almost by the rights where it’s shallow and wait for the long shots. The trippy part is there’s Glen on a wave ski on my left and Vance on an SUP on my right. I’ve known them for years and we just traded waves. The lineup isn’t always so well behaved but it was small and uncrowded. Got a few little runners and actually squared up on some close outs and tagged it. Tried to avoid the flicks.

 

[Havoc]

couple fun ones in north oc. the south swell sets were the best ironically. stamps gb ftw!

 

[bigglesworth]

Surfed a local jetty at dawn. In my haste to get into the water (haven't surfed since christmas!) i nearly wiped out on a patch of black ice hurrying across the parking lot. Took a while to get my rhythm, but managed to string together some fun ones, especially backside, which was odd because I was on a twinnie. Had a really nice late drop racing from behind the peak with the face of the wave illuminated by the wan light of the winter sun. Wasn't a barrel, but I find these stray images seem to stick with me over the years almost as much as tube visions.

Equipment note: since when do xcel drylocks leak after less than a season of use? They used to be the gold standard of wetsuits for me.

 

[jkb]

Equipment note: since when do xcel drylocks leak after less than a season of use? They used to be the gold standard of wetsuits for me.

It's been about 10 years now.

 

[jkb]

Equipment note: since when do xcel drylocks leak after less than a season of use? They used to be the gold standard of wetsuits for me.

If you think about it, they're essentially a budget wetsuit brand masquerading as a top of the line brand. You can get one for $150 pretty much any time of year. They claim the sale suits are last years model, but do they really overproduce that many suits year-after-year to have these constant fire sales? If they do, they're fvcking up big time. Me thinks they know what they're doing and are trying to pull the wool over the customers eyes.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

unfortunately xcel's took a sh!t a while ago. My new one that I got for 150 or so has small leaks after 8 sessions.

Bump in swell this morning but a ton of closeouts... on an 11 sec swell? WTF?

Lost driver was too much boar for the waves but it felt good to get back on her again. Such a nice boar. TIm has some big shoes to fill with the scarecrow on order to replace it but I have a feeling I won't be disappointed.

 

[teeroi]

Checked the wind charts strong NE. There’s waves on the NS but onshore. Headed to Bowls or RPS to check. It’s offshore but tiny. Ended sitting on the bench under the trees watching. Saw only one wave that Tetsuo did a nice turn on. Rest were LBer going straight. If I hadn’t surfed a couple times this past week probably would’ve paddled out just to get wet. Hopefully the wind turns more East since there’s waves in the country.

 

[bigglesworth]

It's been about 10 years now.

My last couple of 5/4 drylocks were great. I think this one is a 2018 that I didn't use until last year. I'm not getting them for 150, unfortunately

 

[Brsnstein]

Took the blindspot out for a spin at a popular South Bay close out on the dropping tide. Probably should have been on more of small wave board, but the bigger sets looked promising. Pig dogged into a small backside barrel (both weaknesses of mine) and might have had a shot at making it out, but a retarded buddy of mine thought I was too deep and dropped in on me. Got one left that stayed open long enough for a couple turns. Still fun and better than I thought it would be

 

[silentbutdeadly]

My last couple of 5/4 drylocks were great. I think this one is a 2018 that I didn't use until last year. I'm not getting them for 150, unfortunately

CHeck online. I actually see a lot of 5/4's on sale

 

[ZeeHawk]

Interesting day at the local. Looked smallish but had a few decent sets about chest high. Then a bunch of smaller sets around waist and one solid one overhead. Then back to wonky waist high. Fun but weird day

 

[b.r.]

one of my oldest friends from grom days growing up came down from hueneme on friday and we paddled out into some craptacular waves, he brought down a roberts dreamcatcher and i grabbed the kenson pleasure pig, nobody was surfing the onshore conditions but we had a great time anyways spinning 360s going switchfoot etc, being 50 plus year old groms, then went and had a pint at my local watering hole, got up early yesterday and drove around and i showed my buddy why i don't surf saturday mornings but eventually we ended walking up a beach to an area of mediocre reef set ups and it was glassy and fun surf, got a lot of long waves and it was sunny and warm, felt a little too warm in my new oneill 4/3 but warmer is better than colder. my jacked up shoulder has been holding up pretty good, i've added a light weights regimen while i ride the stationary bike and it seems to be helping, now just need to lose 15 more lbs and I can get back on a couple of sweet boards i have stashed in the garage.

 

[teeroi]

Got to my NS regular just before sunrise. It looked jumbled up. But I waited til the sun came up to decide if I should check plan b. In the light it still looked crossed up from the strong onshore yesterday and the mix of different swells. But there were nuggets among the chaos.

Paddled out and had fun. Head high plus with no more than 4 of us at any time. Got a half hour by myself. Lots of current, shorter period mix swell so lots of paddling.

Best wave I paddled for a double up. Thought the drop would be tricky, got in late but clean. Saw it horseshoe in front of me so got a good pump and backdoored the section. Pulled in travelled thru the first section and it started get almond in front. I could’ve try to doggy door an exit but sometimes the tube breathes just before it hits the channel and will get round and let you out clean. It kept pinching and the top caved in just before I rode out. I didn’t make it but it was the first barrel on the Moonfish. Board felt good riding the tube. I’ll be looking for the next one. Haha

 

[Oceanslide]

Epic late morning with the groms, not for the wave quality or size, just a great way to spend a winter morning in beautiful weather. Got to trim some on the VS HPTC alone, then the grom-ette paddled out to me in the lineup with a friend and I pushed her into some long little waves that were perfect for her. Then the boy grom and a friend padded out on boogies and goofed around running into each other after running around the jetty, etc.
Ideal way to spend a Sunday...now a little football. Life doesn’t suck.

 

[Aruka]

Another post storm slop sesh. Pretty much just a lot of paddling and duckdiving and dropping in to closeouts. At least the sun was out for a few hours. Now back to our regular scheduled programming of rain, rain and more rain.

 

[bluengreen]

After a couple weeks of mostly sh!t conditions, E winds returned. Surf jumped from 2 to 12 feet overnight. Surfed a 5'10 "Mushmaster" yesterday and a 7'6 gun today. Actually, I "surfed" today. 10-12 feet and no lulls, so I spent 30 minutes tryin to get out. In that time, the current swept me north three city blocks through a sea of foam and dumping insiders. Almost made it before a 6-wave set unloaded right in front of me and pushed me back into the OB "death zone." First rejection of the season. Judging by the fact that there were two guys out in a two mile stretch, this was probably the experience most had today, at least once the tide dropped and turned the first 100 yards of paddle into the worlds largest washing machine. Will try again tomorrow.

 

[gbg]

Got to my NS regular just before sunrise. It looked jumbled up. But I waited til the sun came up to decide if I should check plan b. In the light it still looked crossed up from the strong onshore yesterday and the mix of different swells. But there were nuggets among the chaos.

Paddled out and had fun. Head high plus with no more than 4 of us at any time. Got a half hour by myself. Lots of current, shorter period mix swell so lots of paddling.

Best wave I paddled for a double up. Thought the drop would be tricky, got in late but clean. Saw it horseshoe in front of me so got a good pump and backdoored the section. Pulled in travelled thru the first section and it started get almond in front. I could’ve try to doggy door an exit but sometimes the tube breathes just before it hits the channel and will get round and let you out clean. It kept pinching and the top caved in just before I rode out. I didn’t make it but it was the first barrel on the Moonfish. Board felt good riding the tube. I’ll be looking for the next one. Haha

Rocky lefts

 

[teeroi]

Umm. Rocky Point is on a 24/7 Surfline cam. I would say if I surfed there. If there’s a cam on the spot I don’t mind naming it.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

Went to Tanner's yesterday to borrow one of his griff's and he surprised me with a Parmy widowmaker that belonged to the late Festus Porkmeyer. It felt weird taking it but honored as well. Rode it in overhead walls this morning and got a handful of gems. Festus was nice enough to throw me a nice toob so I was stocked as can be. Thanks Tanner, it put a smile on my face.

 

[gbg]

Got down to the beach at 7. Sheet glass but walled. Within 5 minutes a hard south wind blew up. Tattered.