*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,374
113
eastside oahu
We really don't need Gregg to be on an oversized groveler.

We paddled out in the dark and this guy got in Greggs way so Gregg scolded him. As the lighting got better Gregg saw him talking to one of the dawn patrol regulars. He asked me who that guy talking to Jerome is. I told him that’s Clyde he’s an old T&C team rider and Jeromes friend. So of course since making Gregg uncomfortable is right up there with getting spit out of a Big Bowl barrel I said something.

I shouted over to Clyde hey did Gregg scold you for getting in the way. He just smiled. I go Gregg that’s Clyde, Clyde that’s Gregg. The lineup is cracking up. Sorry Clyde Greggs trying to be a regulator out here so he’s practicing on old men and chicks on longboards. More laughing. Then I tell Clyde don’t get in the way. Hahaha.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,707
2,342
113
Oceanside, CA
Crazy fun time at my new favorite SD reef
Waist to HH with some bigger ones
Had 3 epic ones before my hair even got wet
Best session to date on the Kazuma fishy

Best wave of the day was a clean HH that the pack missed . Went late and did 3 good snaps with the last one drifting the tail . Float the end section and done .
Where's the review of the Kazuma fish??
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
26,150
7,414
113
twas pretty good today, pretty warm, dipshit from yesterday didnt show up. had my own peak alone. head high sets, not too predictable. new board felt great on those occasional lowers-like sections. good to be on an actual shortboard instead of the mini simms thing. plenty fast and loose enough - even got an unusual tube over the inside shelf, mini teahopu section. of course it doesnt paddle as well and many waves were funky so i blew a few too, but sure wuld be nice to have the good ones on video. got 2hrs worth. still tired and surf now blown out. yay me1591551161464.png
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,705
23,491
113
Tower 13
2 days in a row at same spot. wind must have scared people away and the minus tide made it look worse than it was.

The ass end of the fuse feels really flippin good. been thinking about how I'll get it tweaked. actually surfed pretty well today the whole session
 

retodd

Duke status
Feb 23, 2009
16,757
2,177
113
When the secret sandbar is negative 1.4 low tide and the combo plater is overflowing it can test the limits of this joe bro

Don't know if I spent more time rolling on the bottom or actually surfing ? Anyway it was uncrowded and got lots of waves .
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,374
113
eastside oahu
Dawned Bowls. It was weird at first light combo swell trying to sort itself out and some runners. Took the Tokoro X2 out with the h4 fins. Got a set in the dark but it ran away. I noticed it was doing that so I just sat inside and picked off a bunch of insiders and the ones the crew outside couldn’t connect. Probably burned my friends on some 50/50 ones too.

Some of the regulars saw me sitting inside and knew it was good but there was the occasional set that stayed open to keep them outside. When a lot of the guys moved in toward me I moved outside. If I was going to have to share waves I may as well wait for a set.

Got some turns that felt really good. High speed carves, went vert on a couple. Saw one of the Uncles get a nice tube and saw my friend Jordan get a sick bs shack.
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
33,705
23,491
113
Tower 13
how would you tweak it? i was thinking of getting one as a pure quad, thinned out a bit
I want to bring in the front a bit width wise, perhaps go an inch longer and keep the foil the same. My fuse is suprisingly foiled pretty high po for a groveller. I may be getting close to a flare but maybe it will be a fuse between a flare and a fuse :LOL:
 

teeroi

Miki Dora status
Oct 21, 2007
5,137
9,374
113
eastside oahu
@teeroi You really like the H4 fins? Might pick up a pair.
I was very skeptical at first. But I love them. Been using the large in my boards 6’0 and under and plan on getting a medium set for my step ups. Gregg wanted me to loan him my set I told him not a chance. I’ve been super careful paddling in during the minus tides cause I don’t want to lose them. The few people I know that have a set all really like them.
 

Brsnstein

OTF status
Jul 28, 2018
250
479
63
SoCal
Waist to head and peaky. Redlined the giggle box on the larger sets. Highlight was a snap followed by a carve on shoulder of hh right, but I felt like I needed more rocker and switched to the Blindspot for the second hour and just in time for the wind to really start to mess things up. Still got a few fun ones, just wish the wind would have cooperated
 

obslop

Rabbitt Bartholomew status
Feb 4, 2002
8,044
1,512
113
san diego, CA
Waist to head and peaky. Redlined the giggle box on the larger sets. Highlight was a snap followed by a carve on shoulder of hh right, but I felt like I needed more rocker and switched to the Blindspot for the second hour and just in time for the wind to really start to mess things up. Still got a few fun ones, just wish the wind would have cooperated
rip so hard gotta move to the back up board
 

Waterlogged05

Michael Peterson status
May 14, 2005
1,927
1,822
113
Drove down to Corpus for the potential storm swell in the gulf

Small friday and wasn't going to paddle out. 30 long boarders on the larger slow peak, I surfed the second more inside peak with one friend and we had it all to ourselves. Was comical.
Friend insisted I try his Chemistry D3
Caught a bunch of small waves and had a great time. Might purchase for groveler, highly maneuverable and I caught anything.

Same board, Chemistry D# 5'7" Saturday was small but very dumpy and waist high, got a ton of fun waves.
All the boys were out that I hadnt seen in years, surfed all damn day.
Board hit my two front teeth when I emerged from the water after a fall, hard.
No teeth lost! just bloody gums. Swell still wasn't filling in yet.

Today (sunday) I blew it. Woke up at dawn and sped to the beach and it was pretty big by texas standards, overhead and breaking past the end of Bob Hall Pier. Everyone that's ever surfed within a 500 mile radius was out.
The current was ripping, and I was totally gassed from surfing all day Friday Saturday . sh!t.
This spot normally is dumpier but it was kinda slow and with the offshore winds, very frustrating.
The curent combined with a rip was extremely fast and after 30 minutes I quickly got sucked out really far.
I was thinking fuck I need to catch a bigger set wave to get further in, caught a biggun but couldnt barely turn without getting sucked up the face. Wind was killing me and the wave wasnt throwing like it should.
Washed up like a drowned rat way down the beach.
Should have stayed but left around noon. Kooked it on the day of the year.

Kind of disappointed but it happens, ill take 2 fun days out of three.
On the HPSB today.
Was wishing I had that extra foam for the large amount of water moving.

Also saw a lot of frothing newbies on wavestorms with go pros paddling out and getting mercilessly wrecked, it was buck wild.
 

Aruka

Tom Curren status
Feb 23, 2010
12,111
22,953
113
PNW
Solid but crappy short interval swell today. It rained in the morning but cleared up for the afternoon. Calm and warm. Had to paddle out even though nothing was looking very epic. Opted to surf bigger reef waves instead of fishy waves at my local. Took the 6-6 twin out because it was the biggest board I had. My buddy opted for his fish. It ended up being even bigger than it looked and just non stop waves. Took quite a while to get across the inner bar but once I made it out I lucked into a couple fun ones right away. My buddy tried to stick to the inside corner but it ended up being a bad call and he ended up stuck inside forever and eventually gave up and went in. I stayed out for a while by myself. Got a few more chunky ones and then made the mistake of taking one too far in as well. After being brutalized by about twenty waves on the inner bar I gave up as well. Far from amazing waves but it was fun to get out in a little juice and it was a gorgeous afternoon.