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*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***
- Thread starter jkb
- Start date
skipped day 5 of 2020 on sunday and my quest to catch daily dale has failed. graded papers and watched football, but monday was back on the quest and had super clean, chest high waves with one friend at a spot that usually has a crew , but it was monday mid day after vacation and we had it alone for an hour and a half. kind of looked better than it was but as the tide started to push got a bunch of fun rights on my kenson double wing twinzer, this board is old and has a set of futures with the scimitar fins up front and little trailers, i really liked this set up years ago and was stoked to pick up this board off of a friend. fast down the line but can turn well too. looking like a downward trend for surf, but maybe longboard later today after work
Super fun mushy beachbreak runners on the G&S singlefin. Lot's of lulls but some fun sarfing for sure. Cold at dawn and sweating when I got out. Nice day!
grabbed the log off the side of the house, snails and all and threw it in the back of truck after work, the grom didnt' want to go "homework" f in teachers! . beautiful warm day, super clean, got out to a crappy little reef spot and 2 people were outside sat inside and got 5 waves right off the bat, clean peelers on the longboard, a couple friends paddled out and we split waves for an hour and a half. longboard goes faster with the snail trails on the bottom so I put it back in the same spot in my yard. happy yew year...
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh, stories.That's a negative. It was a much dryer trip in all ways compared to last month's excursion
lot's of swell on buoys but it wasn't that big. GX was mostly sinking but got a few once I moved to a better bar.
Hood felt amazing this morning. It was fvcking cold.
Hood felt amazing this morning. It was fvcking cold.
fun today but ultra crowded and aggro for some strange reason. seems like nobody works these days. i could surf better than 95% of the crowd but 95% of the crowd was super aggressive. regardless, got some super fun waves and some memorable cutbacks and carves on the giggler. highlight was watching some du paddle out on a strange carbon railed boar and proceed to shred at a pro level. on the beach when he got out it was none other than daniel thompson. i shot the chit with him for a bit and hes releasing that boar next week along with some crazy looking fins. seems to work well, even in mediocre surf. thought about getting a selfie with tomo to fk with defroster a bit but decided not to lol. dans a cool cat. will order a custom from him soon.
Looked like fun but was a bit gutless. Lots of seaweed made things interesting. Found myself on surflies and it was disappointing, what else is new?
ya at least in south oc some had push and others just mush. hope for more next week. 1 good turn makes it all worth it.
Got to the local with low hopes but it was the last day of swell for a few days so had to get out, at least for a maintenance surf. Went over to check out a right that had been forming over the last few weeks. About knee high w/ no real wall but it did peel pretty long. Once I got out I felt like I judged the size wrong from the beach. There was nobody out when I looked but when the first set that rolled through it was at least waist high. Pretty backwash-y but it was fun enough. Then one break over a good chest high left rolls through. Thought it was a just fluke so went back to the right. 2-3 near chest high mushy rights later I realized it was no fluke. Went over to the left and got a chest high set which was actually throwing a little. The wind even backed off for about an hour and spent the next 2 hours with OK surf until I was beat. 2020, you alright.
same spot but smaller on the fuse. Was lucky enough to share the water with high school surf practice. mostly meh but I got two waves on the inside that ripped. Fuse is an amazing high po groveler. I want to tweak one with a tad more high end. Tim can fvcking shape.
My buddy demo'd a Hayden untitled and really liked it. That's two people I've heard good things about the board.
Saw Tanner and his new Griffin on it's mayden voyage. Board looks sick and he seems happy. Cold but nice morning .
My buddy demo'd a Hayden untitled and really liked it. That's two people I've heard good things about the board.
Saw Tanner and his new Griffin on it's mayden voyage. Board looks sick and he seems happy. Cold but nice morning .
very low tide after work yesterday so i went to a chunk of reef that I know likes the low tide, 3 other guys had the same idea but the wind and swell had broken it into two take off zones so we split, two guys deep two guys shoulder and it worked well for everyone with the mixed up waves coming through, rode the kenson twinzer with scimitar futures set up. spun a 360 on my first wave and got a really nice cut back on my last one so i'm hoping the valley in my surfing skills has bottomed out and i'm gonna be on an upswing again.
Got about 1.5 hours in late morning/early afternoon on weak waist high waves. Basically just nursed turns on the fish until it kind of almost stood up enough for a slightly stronger turn before shutting down on the shore break. Better than not surfing
Paddled out for a couple of smaller waves at dawn. Most were just flopping on the reef and loosing all their energy, but a couple of steeper angled ones would swing in from the North and line up perfectly. Got a couple of fun turns on the GMM2. Been struggling with a nagging wrist injury that's been bothering me for 3 months now. Wearing a brace out in the water helps with stabilizing it, but it's also in the way on pop-ups. Fell on my face because of the thing on one wave.
Wore the Cyber 4/3 for the first time this winter. Overheated a little, but it will be good for long sessions. Took the suit off and it was dry inside.
Wore the Cyber 4/3 for the first time this winter. Overheated a little, but it will be good for long sessions. Took the suit off and it was dry inside.
Not a ton of waves but I got a handful of really fun high tide runners to the beach on the fuse. I love this board.
Weathers been horrible here. Strong winds and rain for over a week. There was a swell yesterday and the wind was forecasted to drop and turn SE today do I dawned my regular NS spot. It was blown out and small.
So I went to an alternate spot that I like to surf if there’s wind. Saw a head high wave and didn’t even check just grabbed my board and ran across Kam Hwy.
Saw one of the regulars on the beach watching should’ve been a warning that he wasn’t already out. But I was determined to surf.
It sucked. Almost head high but tons of wind and wind driven current. And no power. Got one or two waves that had a corner and did a couple of turns. When I finally went in the regular told me you guys were struggling out there. Haha. Getting in the ocean still felt good.
So I went to an alternate spot that I like to surf if there’s wind. Saw a head high wave and didn’t even check just grabbed my board and ran across Kam Hwy.
Saw one of the regulars on the beach watching should’ve been a warning that he wasn’t already out. But I was determined to surf.
It sucked. Almost head high but tons of wind and wind driven current. And no power. Got one or two waves that had a corner and did a couple of turns. When I finally went in the regular told me you guys were struggling out there. Haha. Getting in the ocean still felt good.
had the pleasure of observing (in order):
-awesomely handmade canoe/kayak pirate ship thing
-eight foot fluffy (three feet away)
-two awesome examples of bootylicious plastic surgery action
13 miles. good day!
-awesomely handmade canoe/kayak pirate ship thing
-eight foot fluffy (three feet away)
-two awesome examples of bootylicious plastic surgery action
13 miles. good day!
why are you liking the fact that i was on the menu?!??!?!
...and ill go out and out myself right now. if fluffy started to act aggro...i was gonna flip zander's board so i could make a clean get away. love ya, man....but yeah!
...and ill go out and out myself right now. if fluffy started to act aggro...i was gonna flip zander's board so i could make a clean get away. love ya, man....but yeah!
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just like my last session my first and last wave were good today so i'm gonna forget the kookiness that happened in between those two. kenson twinzer for the winzer