*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

[Aruka]

always love some good tech bro rage, havoc.

surfed the local this morning. beyond wonky with like seventeen different swells running. the inside was like miso soup with strands of kelp wrapping around my neck, arms, leash. despite the crossed up mess I managed a few fun ones on the 5-11 SMTH. water finally warmed up, thank goodness. must be at least 52F.

evening time we surfed in the kelp patch. smaller than last time. still good sized though. really fun which I wasn't exactly expecting. rode the 6-2 Insanity w/ twin+trailer and it felt great. done trying different fin setups in this board I think. walking back up the beach after the session, the tide having dropped, it looked like a war zone. massive tangles of kelp and giant tree carcasses strewn about. the waterfall which a few weeks ago was trickle is now raging. the week of rain and winds seems to have washed away many of the tourists too. it's about time, jesus.

 

[oeste858]

What? No post-surf shower under the waterfall?!?

 

[MathDebater]

Honestly I'm not sure it even counts as a surf without the waterfall shower.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

I almost thought there was gonna be a mention of one eyed willie in that ruka post. damn.

 

[Aruka]

i showered in the waterfall i just left that part out so I wouldn't be harassed again by you pervs.

 

[Aruka]

Buddy snapped this cell pic of me at the kelp patch a couple sessions ago. SMTH Drive Thru

 

[MathDebater]

I’m perv’in out on that pic

 

[silentbutdeadly]

no pics of you showering?

 

[ReForest]

Buddy snapped this cell pic of me at the kelp patch a couple sessions ago. SMTH Drive ThruView attachment 101145

Nice one. Looks like a chest high reef runner.

 

[ReForest]

Here is a wave from today. Hopefully it’s the same or may be better tomorrow.

 

[gbg]

Wobbly closeouts this AM. WEAK.

 

[CutnSnip]

repeat of yesterday in SLA, less swell, less people, but more kookery. had 3 collisions, and almost ran over 2 people all be fore 7a.m., one of the collisions was my fault but when 18 people are paddling for one wave its gets a little hard to avoid. Maybe shoulder high on the sets but the tweeners were where it was at.

GX didnt disappoint, popped in the large AM2's just to switch it up after being on medium wcts's for a few months.. Felt really good - responsive. had one on my backside that stretched out for multiple hacks, ending with a carving frontside 360 on the closeout section (i think thats what you call them). been a while since i pulled one of those out of the hat, felt buttery..stocked.

water felt good minus all the red sh!t floating around, air was ok, tide started to fill in, as well as the crowd so called it after about an hour and a half. happy friday everyone.

 

[silentbutdeadly]

finally found a bar that was working. handful of fun waves on the gx. felt good to actually turn

 

[jkb]

Felt like riding something a little different today so I pulled the bonzer out of the rafters.

Struggled on my first wave when I bogged a cutback, but figured out that my foot needed to be further back and everything went smoothly after that.

Got one good crack off the top but no pics because my photog called out sick today. That fvcker is officially out of sick days this year.

 

[MathDebater]

Started at my usual and tide was a bit high, got one fun turn but was over it pretty quickly between the wonk and the crowd. Went to a high tide reef spot and I was not the only one with that idea. Same story, one fun turn and I dipped. The friday crowds are only slightly lighter than the weekends at this point.

 

[Woke AF]

yesterday was glassy and solid overhead and really peaky. The waves would stack-up and be all wonky, jack-up and back-off several times before they would pitch. Difficult being in the right spot. Got cleaned up pretty good several times. Rode the parmy. A few big drops to slide off the disappearing shoulder. Only a few out. Was over it after an hr.

Today a little smaller but better shape. Moderate crowd. Took the Parmy again. The fin looked a little forward but whatever maybe it will work better. Nope. Board was squirrely on a pockety backside and slide out on a big bottom turn. After half a dozen slams using my forearm to move the fin back it slides all the way to the back of the box. FCK and it won't even move up the box now.

Give-up moving the fin and ride it for another half dozen waves. Bummer.
The board turned into a complete dog. Zero drive through any turn, it would actually stall in the middle of a turn no matter where I placed my feet. The things you learn when you are lazy.

 

[enframed]

Got to Porto at 0915, park, start getting ready, then an alert on my phone. I totally spaced that I had a Zoom work meeting with the whole company at 0930. Download Zoom, search email for credentials, go into the meeting. Car alarm goes off, "Enframed, can you mute yourself?" I'm looking at waves, assessing the changing conditions. Car power goes off and I have to log back in after starting electricity again. I can see the tide rising and wind picking up. I end up gripping the steering wheel so hard that I end up with a callus.

75 minutes into what is supposed to be a 60 minute meeting, I text the other LA guy "I'm leaving at 11" "I dare you." 1100 comes around, "Hey guys I have an appointment." I'll see you next week. Caught a few waves in the 2-4ft range. Rode the 6' Stretch single-winged quad for the first time since moving here. Super fun.

 

[ReForest]

Another round of fun waves. Slightly smaller, but felt like more energy in the water. It felt like ground swell. Cold, crisp and fun. Less crowds than yesterday which was nice. Got a couple fun rides, but had more fun yesterday.

 

[000]

was fun all alone and then

 

[Senor Sopa]

The waves would stack-up and be all wonky, jack-up and back-off several times before they would pitch. Difficult being in the right spot. Got cleaned up pretty good several times. A few big drops to slide off the disappearing shoulder. Only a few out. Was over it after an hr.

LOL, sounds like Cracks.

Aruka, you ever consider paddling around with garden clippers at your kelpy spot? Guys at a notorious unfriendly spot do that to clear the surf line. Otherwise, I guess you got to take the second wave of the set, let the first one bury those bulbs. BTW how thick are those? 3/4"? board busters!

First session in prolly three weeks. I've been blowing it, not going out, or having tide and wind issues. Forced myself to go to PPP for a nooner. It was fun, caught the last of the high tide surge. Overhead waves were fat with some back wash, hard to set that edge when you can't find the bottom of the wave after the takeoff. Tide peaked, super lully, wind picked up, outta here. Had the south peak to myself, handful surfing northside. Last wave, why is so often the best?, all the way to the beach, got a thumb's up from lifeguard in truck.

I always try to have something cool or interesting happen on my sessions. Today, on the way home, I managed to get behind a McLaren. I turned the AC and radio off, rolled down window just to hear it. Sounded fun.