*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Mr J

Gerry Lopez status
Aug 18, 2003
1,197
195
63
Regional Vic, Australia
A pocket of fun amongst the turbulent junk. Yesterday on board the Mini Bird. Wide nose rounded pin tail stubby thruster. Quite short, but with proportionally scaled HP rocker. Too small to rely on glide, instead it likes to be pushed HP style and comes with a light single concave to double inside a single. Bought this board second hand a few years ago. PU/PE and holding up really well.

 

paunch23

Gerry Lopez status
Oh i’ve been tricked!! Surf looked very promising. Got in. Then it wasn’t any good.
good to paddle around in the ocean.
But something weird happened. There’s usually lots of stingrays and some fish swimming around. Even more so these days because they banned commercial fishing here during the quarantine.

Suddenly i feel something coming at me and see a small grey shadow coming straight and bumped me. Usually they swim past and avoid you. I think it was a mackerel. No waves or anything at the moment. WTF moment for sure.
My friends were like fck, what was that?
Hope it was just a mackarel.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,077
4,028
113
PNW
Drove a couple hours up North to surf a river jetty wave. Kind of crowded and walled up at first but the crowd thinned and the wave improved as the tide moved in. Sets were overhead. Some barrels but most were pinching. Rode the fresh 6'4" SMTH round pin. Board felt good. Kind of overkill maybe. I dunno, the last half of my session I started to connect with it pretty well. Water is absolutely frigid.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,077
4,028
113
PNW
Back to the jetty. After yesterday I expected a crowd but it ended up being mellow. Little smaller but still some solid overhead sets. The lower interval had it less walled up and more focused. Basically firing. Rode the Driver and it felt lovely. Mostly bowled up, powerful wedging waves just perfect for top-to-bottom surfing. Some barrels but they were tricky. Got a solid couple hours with just a few of us in a good rotation. Wore my Rip Curl Flashbomb which I never wear because it's so stiff in the shoulders but it's the warmest suit I own. Better than being cold, for sure.

My buddy broke his leash and his Simon Anderson got washed into the jetty and snapped in half against the boulders. He scrambled up onto the rocks and retrieved the finned half but the front end was never seen again. I got a couple more waves and then went in to check on my buddy who had finally made it back along the jetty to the beach. The tide was starting to get low and conditions had deteriorated a bit so we just decided to let the locals have it. Pretty sick session other than the surfboard tragedy.
 

Havoc

Michael Peterson status
May 23, 2016
3,529
2,524
113
in da hood next to paradise
Back to the jetty. After yesterday I expected a crowd but it ended up being mellow. Little smaller but still some solid overhead sets. The lower interval had it less walled up and more focused. Basically firing. Rode the Driver and it felt lovely. Mostly bowled up, powerful wedging waves just perfect for top-to-bottom surfing. Some barrels but they were tricky. Got a solid couple hours with just a few of us in a good rotation. Wore my Rip Curl Flashbomb which I never wear because it's so stiff in the shoulders but it's the warmest suit I own. Better than being cold, for sure.

My buddy broke his leash and his Simon Anderson got washed into the jetty and snapped in half against the boulders. He scrambled up onto the rocks and retrieved the finned half but the front end was never seen again. I got a couple more waves and then went in to check on my buddy who had finally made it back along the jetty to the beach. The tide was starting to get low and conditions had deteriorated a bit so we just decided to let the locals have it. Pretty sick session other than the surfboard tragedy.
stay covered leash?
 

MathDebater

Nep status
Apr 13, 2016
645
775
93
SD
My stay covered leashes didn't even snap, the cuffs blew off duck diving in 6' surf like nobody's business. Might as well have not worn a leash.
 
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Reactions: jkb

PRCD

Michael Peterson status
Feb 25, 2020
2,869
1,081
113
Gromswarm. I don't think most of these kids will ever see the inside of a classroom again.
 

Maz

Billy Hamilton status
May 18, 2004
1,550
838
113
Innzid
Shitty onshore windswell three days ago, but it cleaned up to reveal some groundswell goodies. My local was marginal both yesterday and today (needs to be HH to slight OH to break), but still managed a few sessions out there.

The usual crowd of one, and as an added bonus the water has warmed up. 4/3, no booties or squid lid, toasty as anything.

Also got some very nice longboard waves this morning. Second bonus.

Third bonus is that we're off to Raglan for a long weekend, and even if the forecast isn't great it'll be good to visit an old fave - and to go left again! Doesn't happen often.
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
254
163
43
Big Asian Island
Custom CI Neckbeard 2 came in yesterday, surf popped up this afternoon and nobody out so took it for a spin. Very nice ride in just average waves. More turns than what are average for me and felt comfortable/natural. Couple of late drops that went well, good speed, and had a good layback smasher-o-nie, that went out to Dane-o. The bros came out about 20 minutes later and the sets had about 10 minute lulls so decided to pack it in.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,077
4,028
113
PNW
Pretty crummy waves at the secret neighborhood reefs down south. Calm winds but just so much leftover wind swell bump interfering with the occasional decent sized set. Sun was just peeking over the bluff so looking shoreward it was impossible to line up with my usual markers through the glare. Water is still freezing but I wore a new suit so at least my body stayed warm. Hands got cold though with my crummy 3mm Volte gloves. Rode the SMTH rocket. Really need to wait for some decent waves to ride this thing next time or I'm going to get bummed on it due to no fault of it's own. Managed to find a couple quick lefts and rights. A couple turns in between long stretches of paddling back and forth in the current, not really knowing where I was let alone where I wanted to be. Lots of bait fish and sea life all around. Diving pelicans and sea lions chowing down. I didn't love the feeling of being the least seaworthy animal in the food chain out there. If I get chomped by a shark I want it to be when I'm surfing something at least halfway decent. Got a couple left double ups in a row that were fairly steep and fun and then called it. Mejor de nada.