stay covered leash?Back to the jetty. After yesterday I expected a crowd but it ended up being mellow. Little smaller but still some solid overhead sets. The lower interval had it less walled up and more focused. Basically firing. Rode the Driver and it felt lovely. Mostly bowled up, powerful wedging waves just perfect for top-to-bottom surfing. Some barrels but they were tricky. Got a solid couple hours with just a few of us in a good rotation. Wore my Rip Curl Flashbomb which I never wear because it's so stiff in the shoulders but it's the warmest suit I own. Better than being cold, for sure.
My buddy broke his leash and his Simon Anderson got washed into the jetty and snapped in half against the boulders. He scrambled up onto the rocks and retrieved the finned half but the front end was never seen again. I got a couple more waves and then went in to check on my buddy who had finally made it back along the jetty to the beach. The tide was starting to get low and conditions had deteriorated a bit so we just decided to let the locals have it. Pretty sick session other than the surfboard tragedy.