*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Senor Sopa

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 11, 2015
452
395
63
Ponto
Screw Duffy's scale. :roflmao: I laugh at it. There have been days I've been out where it's solid overhead (8-10' faces) but gutless as hell - I'll still call it 1-2' with occasional 3'. This one time at 33s at Cliffs, it was that size but so weak, I decided I wouldn't duck dive anything because it made me feel soiled. :monkey:

Stocked for you, Sopa, that you had that size. Must have been a lot of north in it because at my usual, no rights whatsoever.
I just think that PPP has been REALLY good lately.
I surfed 33's once at over DOH, I wouldn't say gutless, but it wasn't scary. Something about deep channels always make things better when it's large.

Kento, you're gonna be the man now at Salmon Creek and Bolinas. I watched some videos last week, umm, I hope you can find something more suitable to your wave tastes... How far is Point Arena?
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,686
6,025
113
The Bar
Kento, you're gonna be the man now at Salmon Creek and Bolinas. I watched some videos last week, umm, I hope you can find something more suitable to your wave tastes... How far is Point Arena?
Senor Sopa, oh I wouldn't say that! From some photos I've seen and things I've heard, Salmon gets heavy. Really heavy. But I have seen that drone videos - I don't know how the guy who posted those doesn't have his tires slashed on the regular. Just the exact opposite as I learned to roll over the years, leave no trace (except parking lot beers for locals), take no selfies.

I have had a few fun days at Bolinas, more than a few barrels but was crowded even 20 years ago. I know another spot around the corner that takes a trek in but never surfed it. I wonder if it's still as localized; used to be bent windshield wipers were the main tactic of choice and now it's labeled on Google Maps. :rolleyes: I think there are some setups in region in areas to north but will just take a lot of exploring and going away empty-handed at times.

Really stocked on everything.

jkb, taking a run up north next week, taking items that are PITA to use boxes/moving company for, mostly books, boards, and such. Big, final move happens around Veterans Day. In meantime, will try to get some sessions here down south before it goes down. Waiting for tide to drop a little right now before dragging family down to beach.
 

Brsnstein

OTF status
Jul 28, 2018
201
379
63
SoCal
Took the old gx out at the pier with a new arch less pad. Felt much better sans arch, but I was off my game. Simpo was out and it’s crazy how much better and faster former ct pros surf in pretty unremarkable waves. Also saw fanning at the burrito joint afterwards. I’m guessing he didn’t order the chorizo, but couldn’t bring myself to ask
 

CutnSnip

Billy Hamilton status
Sep 11, 2018
1,718
1,086
113
Probably dropping in on you, California
Took the old gx out at the pier with a new arch less pad. Felt much better sans arch, but I was off my game. Simpo was out and it’s crazy how much better and faster former ct pros surf in pretty unremarkable waves. Also saw fanning at the burrito joint afterwards. I’m guessing he didn’t order the chorizo, but couldn’t bring myself to ask
always amazed at how guys like simpo and kanosha rip 1 foot pier like its got the same push of a shoulder high wave.
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,686
6,025
113
The Bar
time to work on your fitness. hopefully youll be dusting off that 7-6 right out of the gate.

( i know duf... way too much board)
Yup. Thinking the same thing. Place I leased has a pool that is only heated part of the year. May be using that short-arm full after all up north. :roflmao: But seriously, having a lap pool like that is good, even if it's just 15 yards or so, still good for doing underwater laps and getting the lungs primed. I worry a little about that.

Went to my local today. Throwaway sesh as it was mostly just gutless, dumpy, mushy closeouts, even with quickly dropping tide. Too much west in the swell making it close instead of race. Oh well. Primary goal was to give that 6'7" roundpin a test run as I hadn't surfed it in a while. Glass on fins and the center one has a few cracks and a mm more play than it probably should have. Think it should be OK but may not be bad idea to check out that twin fin roundpin thread. :monkey:

Overall, board paddled well but obviously way too lumbering for what waves were today. Doesn't seem to have any dings sucking water too hard. Should work OK for up north I'm hoping. Only surfed it about 15 minutes and then grabbed the 6'6" SD. Found some little corners but timing was just off. Either hitting the lip too early, trying to throw fins out the back, and not maintaining enough momentum to get back down the face (in my defense, the waves were really gutless) or floating sections late and dropping nose down an inch or two too late and bottoming out and slamming. Just, ugh. One in particular, my wife saw and we were both cracking up. Beautiful if not crowded beach day, warm (70 deg) ) water, nice day, but man, a lot of people in fullsuits. Maybe they were jujitsu guys trying to make weight or something.

Awesome thing was my daughter out on her boogieboard for over 3 hours straight just walking out to just inside impact zone and catching waves in. Over and over again. Major progression for her as it was only a month ago where she was lounging on sand. She's only 8 and not the strongest swimmer so went out to see how she was doing and she yelled at me that she was doing fine, did not need me there, and sent me back to the beach. Did same to my wife. Fully regulated. :roflmao:
 

doc_flavonoid

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 27, 2019
361
505
93
Yup. Thinking the same thing.

Primary goal was to give that 6'7" roundpin a test run as I hadn't surfed it in a while. Glass on fins and the center one has a few cracks and a mm more play than it probably should have. Think it should be OK but may not be bad idea to check out that twin fin roundpin thread. :monkey:

Overall, board paddled well but obviously way too lumbering for what waves were today. Doesn't seem to have any dings sucking water too hard. Should work OK for up north I'm hoping.
will work until it doesnt. i wouldnt trip on it. everybody finds their happy place. i know a bunch of guys that rip but want no part of it once it goes richter.

a good winter means lots of driving to sc for that crew
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,686
6,025
113
The Bar
will work until it doesnt. i wouldnt trip on it. everybody finds their happy place. i know a bunch of guys that rip but want no part of it once it goes richter.

a good winter means lots of driving to sc for that crew
I wouldn't use that board for anything too large. Besides, I'm not at the point in my life (if I ever was) that I want death-defying heaviness or channel-less Sisyphus sessions. Definitely not tripping - I know I'll have a great time no matter what. It has to be pretty bad (i.e., 1-2' with 30 mph onshores heh or offshores) for me to despair; almost always in a happy place.
 

doc_flavonoid

Legend (inyourownmind)
Dec 27, 2019
361
505
93
I wouldn't use that board for anything too large. Besides, I'm not at the point in my life (if I ever was) that I want death-defying heaviness or channel-less Sisyphus sessions. Definitely not tripping - I know I'll have a great time no matter what. It has to be pretty bad (i.e., 1-2' with 30 mph onshores heh or offshores) for me to despair; almost always in a happy place.
when theres no one in the lot except a guy with a 9-0 padillac and he asks you if you are up for doing a lap.

just smile and say no

you can thank me later
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,686
6,025
113
The Bar
Noted! Thanks. Yes I am not ready to die just yet.

Of course I say this as my wife and I are wide-eyed at the number of high quality Laotian restaurants in Richmond and Oakland. :roflmao: I told her, roll with Raiders gear - down there that can (sometimes) make the difference between being rolled or not. Seriously. :socrazy:
 
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Senor Sopa

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 11, 2015
452
395
63
Ponto
Senor Sopa, oh I wouldn't say that! From some photos I've seen and things I've heard, Salmon gets heavy. Really heavy. But I have seen that drone videos - I don't know how the guy who posted those doesn't have his tires slashed on the regular. Just the exact opposite as I learned to roll over the years, leave no trace (except parking lot beers for locals), take no selfies.

I have had a few fun days at Bolinas, more than a few barrels but was crowded even 20 years ago. I know another spot around the corner that takes a trek in but never surfed it. I wonder if it's still as localized; used to be bent windshield wipers were the main tactic of choice and now it's labeled on Google Maps. :rolleyes: I think there are some setups in region in areas to north but will just take a lot of exploring and going away empty-handed at times.
With every other corner named "gulch" and "landing", there's got to be some spots.

Never been there, Salmon Creek is heavy? Like Puerto or closer to Cylinders? I'm imagining it just starts breaking too far out, I 'm always leery of spots that have large dunes too. There's a reason for those dunes. South Bodega bay seems like it could be ok on South winds.
 

enframed

Miki Dora status
Apr 11, 2006
5,281
1,209
113
Del Boca Vista, Phase III
Yesterday, same spot. Sat on the beach for 30 minutes cuz when I got there it was a little crowded and choppy. Then everyone got out but one guy and the wind changed favorable. 1-3ft, good shape, used the 8'0" long twin. Caught so many waves. One of the last ones though I slipped my back foot and landed my thigh on the rail. The board is fine but I'm a little sore.
 
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Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,087
4,055
113
PNW
Yesterday, same spot. Sat on the beach for 30 minutes cuz when I got there it was a little crowded and choppy. Then everyone got out but one guy and the wind changed favorable. 1-3ft, good shape, used the 8'0" long twin. Caught so many waves. One of the last ones though I slipped my back foot and landed my thigh on the rail. The board is fine but I'm a little sore.
phew. glad the board is okay. :monkey:

our weather has gone back to summer kine pattern. small and windy. been working a lot but the surf jones is starting to get unbearable. might have to go for a windswell grovel soon.
 
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rowjimmytour

Phil Edwards status
Feb 7, 2009
6,345
541
113
Rbeach
Still no surf in Santa Barbara.
Paddled 8 miles this afternoon. I'll sleep good tonight
Renewed my annual pass and scored between go outs when 8 came in at 3rd cracks I went out solo with gusty offshore to slight side and bomby head high sets breaking out side. Only lasted about 40 minutes but scored some fun lefts on gbuzz and then back to inside with about 8 other guys and a dick dragger. The day before perfect conditions off shore 5mph tide was right but only knee to waist 1st crack no crowd first paddle out then 5 kooks came out in group. Hard to keep speed on mushburgers outside and hit the inside where it picked up. I rode my gbuzz with out leash but kinda wish I had brought my 8' ewing bonzer log.
 

oeste858

Gerry Lopez status
Sep 11, 2017
1,143
1,654
113
San Diego, CA
high noon fat tide wedges off the local pier. It was chunky + waist-high and nothing too exciting but was able. to connect some a for pretty long rides. I ended up staying out twice as long as I planned since I pretty much had a right peak off the pier to myself, and it's been so crowded lately. Water still warm but definitely some cool patches moving though. The thread last week where the guy didn't realize he had received a >$1k carbon fiber Mandala in a trade inspired me to take out the 5'6 Superchunk. I was actually gonna ride 5'10 quad minisim since it was mostly longboards out there, but it had a ding on the tail when I pulled it out. Bit disappointed the Mandala didn't seem to do as well in the quick transitions of the beachbreak as it did at the more open-faced reefs I usually surf. Maybe it doesn't make sense, but it almost felt like on some turns, I could feel every point of the wing and the angular (geometric) swallowtail- rather than a smooth turn it felt jagged. Odd. I swear I've thought something similar on the CC Mescaline which has a similar "double diamond" tail. Dunno. Of course, it could've been user error, bad day, or all in my head. Was riding TW quad futures, in case @retodd "has a fin for that"
 
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