*** Official 2020 Community Surf Journal ***

Senor Sopa

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 11, 2015
451
395
63
Ponto
Surfed PPP from 2-3, had to wait for the outgoing tide to finish. Ultra glassy, sweaty in the short sleeve/short legs, super clear (again). Waves were chest high, crowd not too bad, got plenty of the not much to be had. Last week I adjusted my fin 1/8", now it's loose, arggh. Before I figured it out, couple of waves wouldn't let me drop in. The fin would shift into some slight angle that caused the tail to not want to go down the face. Figured it out and adapted, but it's not the same when you're losing 25% of your push. Note to self, remember to tighten up the center fin, may require some plastic shim.
 

Aruka

Phil Edwards status
Feb 23, 2010
7,077
4,028
113
PNW
in the kelp fields again. clear skies and a sea breeze. the little red Loot felt like the right call for the head high, soft conditions. there was a little bit of competition and occasional lulls but when the sets flurried the waves were plentiful.

alas, defying expectations, no hot girls offering cbd back rubs awaited me when I returned to shore.
 

MathDebater

Nep status
Apr 13, 2016
645
775
93
SD
I think there was a gas spill near the mission bay inlet yesterday. It was STINKIN and there was a film on the water. Surfed for a couple of hours but didn’t really get anything good, despite seeing some nugs. I think I’m a little off my game. Surfed 5 days in a row for the first time in who knows how long. The water is probably the warmest it’s been all year.
 
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Havoc

Michael Peterson status
May 23, 2016
3,529
2,524
113
in da hood next to paradise
fun as fk today in the trestles complex. crowded but somewhat cordial. guess this run of waves has been good. double sessioned. first sesh on new 6x20x2-1/4 gb got a bunch of lefts and rights. boar is snappy. got out and ate and chilled until tide dropped and it was a-frame city for round two! peaky glassy clean glistening goodness. at the end of that sesh got 2 perfect shoulder high rights. last one was just this perfect tapering wall that reeled for 50+ yards of perfection. good times! stamps gb ftw!
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
25,284
3,679
113
Tower 13
stared at what looked similar to yesterday only to find mostly closeouts and horrendously long lulls. Got one good wave in my short sesh but even it lacked push. GX performed well submerged in water under my ass all session.

Finished off my run of different boards this week: Quad, bonzer, twin, and thruster. Never get bored.
 
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Senor Sopa

Legend (inyourownmind)
Mar 11, 2015
451
395
63
Ponto
Just got back from PPP, again it was PP. No wind, bright sun, crystal clear water. Crowd was lite, couple of regulars. Using Duffy scale, waves were 4'-8' racing rights. Outgoing tide had many doing the treadmill just to pretend to stay in place, they all did multiple laps. I sat off to the side and scored lots of sets, usually I'm the sucker in the rip. As the tide stared slacking, more and more regulars started showing up. Biggest wave, I'm going in, I was going to use Teeroi's move on a kid, but he didnt' go, some other guy from out of nowhere was there, I kicked out, thinking "where the heck did that guy come from, which guy was it?". Somebody pointed the kid in dreads way inside, he knew. He knew that he didn't deserve that wave and was paying penance on the inside. Caught a HH runner, as I passed dreads, real close, He was looking at me, I smiled and gave him the "I see you finger point" :waving: . He laughed. Another great session at PPP. October has been rockin.

Edit: He knew that I knew that he knew that he sniveled the best wave as his first of the session.

After showering, I drive away, stopped at the only light, right there at the beach. You can check the waves in your mirrors, the fog had already moved in.

Edit. The fog was for real, I cannot believe I had the luck/foresight to bail on a high note. I will surf fog, but it can be such a buzz kill.

Edit. For some weird reason "dreads" made me think of my old friend "Curly". He's in the slammer for attempted murder of his wife. She called on what was in the Gatorade bottle, chased down the alley in Cardiff, fired shots, hit her hand. So hammered, missed when trying to end it. I told my wife the dreads story from today and what it made me think about. First words, "he's probably getting out soon".
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,667
5,996
113
The Bar
Screw Duffy's scale. :roflmao: I laugh at it. There have been days I've been out where it's solid overhead (8-10' faces) but gutless as hell - I'll still call it 1-2' with occasional 3'. This one time at 33s at Cliffs, it was that size but so weak, I decided I wouldn't duck dive anything because it made me feel soiled. :monkey:

Stocked for you, Sopa, that you had that size. Must have been a lot of north in it because at my usual, no rights whatsoever. Come to think of it, not too many lefts either. 1-2, maybe 3' "lefts", hollow, dumpy, only corners out there were from the rips. Last day at my well, not current haha job, so was paddling out no matter what as it was an exercise in cleansing. Super low tide, little bit of wind on it, foggy as hell (October remembers the June Gloom as well as September; weird year; chalk it up to 2020), but no one out and while waves were lacking, water was balmy and air not too bad either.

Been so stressed because of the pending move up north (the symbolism of the fog was not lost on me), felt soooooooo good to get in the water. Even though walled, I still managed to accelerate down the line enough before the wave hit knee deep water to either jam up and over the top or get a little slash/re-entry or floater reentry. Couple little tuck-ins on a few but so dumpy had to take high lines to shortly thread them which is never good in super-shallow water. No real actual full-rail turns but who cares, it felt so good to be in the water. Only one truly unsuccessful wave where I took a bit too high a line right as the wave dumped, had to eject. Just stocked I escaped with all fins intact.

Went straight from my spot to Total Wine & More, picked up the Stone Enjoy by 10/31/20 and sixers of Lost Coast Fogcutter DIPA and Seismic Shatter Cone IPA. The irony of finding those beers in OC that could not even be broached at the supermarket in Groanert Park was not lost on me.

Oh and since this was one of my last days at a break I've consistently frequented for the last decade+, yes, I honored my personal parking spot with a "Kentoland" in some old wax that will be replenished in near-future dates. Like Jack Nicholson said in Wolf, just marking my territory. :monkey:
 
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Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,667
5,996
113
The Bar
you should have picked up some pete's wicked to match your boards!
I honestly do not know how you all surf those stubby retro boards without your back foot going off the tail. Not going to say those boards don't work in certain conditions but I will always look at them as gimmicks. Simon Anderson was onto something. So was Biolos.

I wish I hadn't blown out the edges in 3 different places from not the most intelligent of lines on my Burton Kelly Slopestyle 173 just so I could mock you all with that on the snow. :monkey:
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,667
5,996
113
The Bar
ha ha you're a good sport. all good mang. just giving you crap.

oh, and if you talked to biolos he'd set you up with the new deal ;)
Oh we're good. Like I said in other thread, growing up as a souther sponger in Oxnard gave me a very thick skin. :cheers:

Biolos probably would. I still find it surreal that time a buddy who worked there said, any board you want in the entire factory/warehouse: $350. Reola looking bemused the entire time. 6'10" stepup did me well until it got usurped by a lost 6'7" roundpin (that I still have); cuBe1 was eventual recipient of that 6'10"; board was originally christened first wave with a long standup barrel at La Fonda. Good times.

Every board I have had shaped was derived from either that Speed Demon or a slightly similar magic 6'6" LM that Noah Budroe shaped for me out of SCSC. I can't go into Catalyst. Maybe it's because I'm older but it feels different without the leaking ceiling panels, beers behind the counter while watching vids and bongloads in the back while learning how to set FCS plugs. :roflmao:

BTW, if you ever find yourself up north, hit me up. :cheers:
 

Kento

Duke status
Jan 11, 2002
57,667
5,996
113
The Bar
you should have picked up some pete's wicked to match your boards!
AND SPEAKING OF WHICH

last day on job, I was most definitely planning on TW&M hitup, wore my old VB shirt, not even a raised eyebrow. F*cking manbunned hipsters.

I need to find kegs of that sh!t. I can drink it til the cows come home. That and Toohey's Old. I mean, that's how I have the nickname Schoonie by double-fisting Schooners and Longnecks/ies. My friend D. Henniker still laughs his ass off when I was waiting for his daughter to come home from work and just chilling on lawn couch double fisting quarts of Old and VB, just right at fucking home. "Fucking hell Seppo, just making yourself Straight Strine, aren't you mate?" Yes. Yes I am. :roflmao: :jamon::beer:

And oh yes, there is definitely plan to take whole family over there, rent a Kombi, and trek the coast from Sydney to Shellharbour (HOLDING down there) and up to Byron and beyond for at least a few weeks. :shaka: (just gotta get this Covid sh!t out of the way)