*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

bluengreen

Michael Peterson status
Oct 22, 2018
1,763
4,641
113
SF x Encinitas
Back in the water after 10 days of turkey and recovery for my sore ribs. 3-5 feet and offshore. Paddling a 6'1 after being on the 7'6. Am I even going anywhere? Caught some fun ones, though, including my first made tube of the season. Ribs feel terrible damnit. Need more time out of the water. :(
 

ZeeHawk

OTF status
Apr 13, 2018
268
200
43
Big Asian Island
Sunny, shoulder to overhead surf with a lovely chip-in from the outside. Super fast down the line and could squeak in a turn or two at the end if it came together. The sand bars are figuring themselves out and had lefts and rights. A few big lulls but then there were some solid pulses with a few sets in a row. Actually a little tired! BTW the Ghost never felt like it was close to redlining. That thing has some range for such a small board
 

jkb

Tom Curren status
Feb 22, 2005
10,041
8,978
113
Central California
Interesting session at the main spot in my area.

A bald guy was busting 5ft backside airs on a pink railed board with what looked like a Tommy Bahama inspired design painted on the back smoothie section of his wetsuit.

And some skinny guy on a 7ft step-up (waves were 4ft) was trying to pick a fight with everyone. Paddling under people, paddling around people, taking off on the whitewater behind people and calling them off, taking off in front of people. I felt a little left out because I was one of the only ones he didn't call a faggot. :ROFLMAO:
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,320
113
Oceanside, CA
Pretty burgery and it seems everyone was worried about the runoff, which was probably smart as it smelled
like I was surfing in the middle of a garden. Me and only 2 others as far as I could see, which in itself was
well worth it. Almost all of the waves sucked, but occasionally there would be a bigger peak that would have
at least a little room to pump across and hit the closeout section. Got 4 of those and actually did (for me) some
pretty good snappy turns in/on/under the closeout lip on the Inspired 6'0" with a new-to-me set of Split keels
which feel the best so far in the board. Need more time in better waves.
 

ocean7847

Miki Dora status
Jun 23, 2004
4,786
317
83
the Injured Reserve
...And some skinny guy on a 7ft step-up (waves were 4ft) was trying to pick a fight with everyone. Paddling under people, paddling around people, taking off on the whitewater behind people and calling them off, taking off in front of people. I felt a little left out because I was one of the only ones he didn't call a faggot. :ROFLMAO:
Welcome to Santa Cruz!
 

sushipop

Michael Peterson status
Feb 7, 2008
3,317
5,790
113
The Dagobah System
Stood up on a surfboard for the first time in over 7 months today. Rode my log at a local reef and shared a few small runners with my son some good friends/local crew members. Was surprisingly less awkward than I thought I’d be, but was very cautious. Felt so good to to glide along. Stocked!
 
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need 4 speed

Phil Edwards status
Nov 1, 2003
6,676
3,579
113
SoCal
couple runners on the JT twinzer. Artichoke skies and light offshore, mostly walled but every now and then a section would open up enough for a quick section. Not big in the south part of town. Saw a few bombs on the way North.
 

Oceanslide

Kelly Slater status
Mar 5, 2008
9,698
2,320
113
Oceanside, CA
Stood up on a surfboard for the first time in over 7 months today. Rode my log at a local reef and shared a few small runners with my son some good friends/local crew members. Was surprisingly less awkward than I thought I’d be, but was very cautious. Felt so good to to glide along. Stocked!
Whahappen? Dude, glad you're back in the water, for whatever reason. (y)
 
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sushipop

Michael Peterson status
Feb 7, 2008
3,317
5,790
113
The Dagobah System
Whahappen? Dude, glad you're back in the water, for whatever reason. (y)
Thanks amigo. Tore my Achilles tendon at the end of April. Surgery was May 2nd. -1000/10 Would not bang again.
Been “kneeboarding” for a month or so trying to get my arms back a little. Was so stoked when I got the green light to stand up this week. Taking it slow. Prob just gonna rode the log on small days for the next few weeks. I don’t think I’ve ever said “can’t wait for it to get smaller” before, until now.
 

oeste858

Phil Edwards status
Sep 11, 2017
6,931
17,272
113
San Diego, CA
Swell is supposed to keep building to DOH this evening, but this morning was my only window to surf today. Really fun mid-tide session at a La Jolla reef. 5’8” Tomo SP2 (Cymatic predecesor in XTR) was a blast, carving in HH-OH walls like it was a snowboard in powder. Stocked on the bort, @Havoc ; been surfing it a lot the last month instead of picking different sticks each session and it feels like it goes exactly where I want it to! :shaka: