Dawn patrolled Bowls. Thought I saw Big Bowl sets in the dark so was going to take out the 6’0. My friends changed my mind. Glad they did. I think the swell peaked late yesterday afternoon. I was watching the cam and getting excited.
Waves were still a little overhead. Low tide with it filling in fast. The tide has been way higher than forecasted all summer. Lots of different swell directions in the water which made some weird sections but there were some good ones to be had.
I rode my 5’9 and got a couple of good waves with mostly snaps and roundhouses mixed in.
Paddled out in the dark with Anthony Walsh. He hadn’t surfed since Tahiti. I asked him about that wipeout he had. Walshy said he had an impact vest on but the next wave was a tow wave and he got punished from that one. Walshy just sits inside at Bowls and get little waist high tubes after getting smoked on 15 foot waves at Teahupoo. Go figure.
Here’s a screeen grab from yesterday’s peak.
Was hoping would still have some like that today. There were a couple that broke in the Bowl but not worth sitting 30 minutes for.