weak and peaky despite some size on the sets. low period only got 1 right but a bunch of lefts. couple carves and a clean backside floater. that's 2 for 2 on my nemesis move lol. felt like 80 degree water. giggle box ftw!
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Best report in a loooong time. Yeeeew!Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.
My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.
First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.
Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.
Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys
Epic read! Stoked me out for sure! Wish we had some good waves like that down here. Thanks Aruka. Yewww!Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.
My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.
First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.
Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.
Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys
Awesome story!Midday headed south with the low tide and lower expectations. Uninspiring buoy readings notwithstanding the sun was out and there was not a breath of wind so I felt somewhat obligated to cut work early on this fine Friday for a little coastal exploration. Had a sand bar in mind about twenty minutes away but on a whim I checked an old favorite spot that I haven't surfed in over a year. Requires a little drive from the highway and a walk to check it. A sneaky cove with a meandering creek s-turning through the middle of the course sand beach. A rocky headland juts out to the North and to the South a half mile of sandy beach and patchy, rocky reef. Bordering the sandy beach are red clay cliffs, a hundred or so feet tall with spruce trees growing precariously along the edge.
My first impression of the waves from up on top was that it looked really fun and hollow but maybe on the small side. I didn't watch for long, it was definitely good enough for my low standards so I just suited up and grabbed the 6'1" Phantom and my little Banjo fish just in case. I hadn't ridden the Phantom in a long time but it always did well for me in tight little pockets. A real set came through as I was nearing the spot and I realized it was bigger and better than I'd thought. Nothing crazy, just like head high, maybe bigger on the sets but really hollow and thick. I was pretty much frothing out of my skin to get out there and it didn't require much, just a little timing to get past the inside double ups and then a few strokes and I was into the lineup. The water is still really warm and the color and clarity were amazing today.
First couple waves were just drop in, pull in and race until I got gobbled up. Paddling back out I spun and took a look at a double up corner, realized I was too deep and tried to pull back but ended up getting sucked over and rolled along the sand bottom as my board smacked me about a bit. Got a few fun ones after that, couple turns and some cover ups, a few more closeouts. Started to get a better feel for where to sit and which ones to go for. There was some free floating bull kelp and a pretty decent size alder branch floating around the lineup which kept things interesting.
Finally a nice wedging set wave came my way and I got a good entry behind the peak. Pretty much just angled into it and didn't have to do much once I got to my feet. It wasn't the longest or deepest tube but the thing was guttering out in just a couple feet of water and the view from inside was really dang nice. Easy exit into the rip and then on my way back out about thirty seconds later a wide double up shifted to me and I spun on it. Air dropped right into another good tube, came out with a ton of speed and got the best turn of my session. Forgot how much I like this board in these type of waves. The tide was filling in fast and backwash was starting to hinder the opportunities a bit. The sets started to slow up too. I chased corners around for a while before I got a decent enough one to go in on. Just a racer to end section bash.
Overall one of the better sessions I've had in a while at one of my favorite spots to surf. Tomorrow supposed to be similar conditions but with a little more swell. Have a great weekend boys
My Shadow is 6-3, Phantom 6-1. There is definite overlap which is why I haven't been riding the Phantom much since I got the Shadow. The Phantom is kind of a funny one because it looks pretty stubby like a GX or other step down groveler but it really doesn't grovel that well. Like if the waves are mushy and/or weak I would grab something else. That said, if there is a little pocket or some steepness it gets up and goes a little faster than the Shadow and carries that speed down the line and over flat spots a little better. I need to ride them back to back in the same conditions but one thing I noticed yesterday was how much speed I was able to carry on a wave that split in two on the inside and I was able to pump over the angled lump, connect to pretty much this whole other wave and bash the oncoming section. I think that would have been tough on that wave riding the Shadow.Awesome story!
What are your thoughts on the shadow vs the phantom? Is there quite a bit of overlap there or a do both have their place?
dude aruka u shud right sum of dis chit in a book. literaryObviously it's too much to expect similar conditions to produce similar surf two days in a row here.
Slightly bigger, maybe a little more South in the swell? Regardless it was just closeouts up and down the beach. Drove in circles for an hour before paddling at a different spot to surf what appeared to be cornering wedges but was in reality pretty much just closeouts as well. My stubborn ass chased the peaky mirages up and down the beach for about two hours with my only reward being a few short lived tube views followed by violent beatings on the shallow sand bar. Still, the water was warm, the sun was out and a dead whale or some other large deceased creature was floating a ways outside the lineup as seagulls and who knows what else fed on it.
After my hundredth closeout barrel I accepted defeat and left the water to hike back up the tall, near vertical sand dune to my truck. As I stood at the top by the highway, my legs and lungs burning I looked back down at the ocean and watched a beautiful left corner peel through, hollow and glistening. And then a right hander did the same across the channel that had apparently formed in the time it took me to climb the cliff...
The ocean hates me.
more of the same with much sharper teeth. Barrels to be had, taxes to be paidsuper fun this a.m. in NOC..swell finally showed up and there were little teepees everywhere with some short barrels on offer. Stamps flare for the win.