*** Official 2019 Community Surf Journal ***

Hdip

Michael Peterson status
Apr 23, 2005
2,586
103
63
Malibu, CA
Decided to test myself and ride a 6'1" today. It got bigger as I was out and I was wishing for a bigger board by the end of the day. Made a tippie toe drop on my wave in. Barely didn't pearl, pulled around the section and sat in the pocket all the way in.

First wave I locked into a long pocket ride with two small lips thrown over my head. Nothing like the waves I saw other people getting though.

http://instagr.am/p/B6wc9ICggs1/
 

silentbutdeadly

Duke status
Sep 26, 2005
23,816
1,039
113
Tower 13
Weird swell and sand in my zone. First spot was small and closed out. Other zones were big, overpowered and closed out. Settled on a kook reef/beach for mostly crap but had a left that stood up with three quality hacks on the driver. Rushed in for a conference call that was cancelled while I was in the water. :mad:
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,558
288
83
those days...
places i used to be able to surf and not get followed
are gone
can handle maybe 2 guys, yet more tards keep paddlin out and jockying like desouza
i m running out of solutions
 

000

Duke status
Feb 20, 2003
21,558
288
83
after deciding the kooks have won, any shiitty reef will be packed, i went beachbreak today
i really prefer these inbetween days to swell days, it was small but nobody was out, and it was good enough..
i was alone. as it should be every time. tomorrow will be hell again
 

Waterlogged05

Nep status
May 14, 2005
745
226
43
Waist high with ripping current. Spent all my energy trying to stay in position on a board that paddles badly. Blew it. Was way better down the beach and I was already gassed. But it beats sitting at home